Great Himalaya Trail - Summary of Completed Sections

This is an ongoing project for me and it gives me a good reason to return to one of my favourite regions in the world. I have been trekking in the Himalaya since 2001. So far, I have completed the following sections and crossed the following high passes of the Karakoram, the Zanskar and the Himalaya Ranges (The Great Himalaya Trail, situated in Nepal, is only a subset of this larger and longer journey). Click on each link for the trip report and photos:

Nepal Himalaya Treks (2,100km) and main passes:

1.     Kangchendzonga Himal 250km, Selele Pass 4,290m

2.     Makalu Himal 80km, Shiphton Pass 4,000m, Sherpani Col 6,180m and West Col 6,135m

3.     Khumbu Himal – East 60 km, Amphu Labtsa Pass 5,845m

4. Khumbu Himal Central - ChoLa Pass 5,400m and Lobuche Peak 6,000m

5. Khumbu Himal West - Sunder Peak 5,000m and Sumna Pass 5,480m

6.     Kumbu Himal  - West 100km, Gokyo Ri 5,400m and RenjoLa 5,360m

7.     Rowaling Himal 100km, Teshi Labtsa Pass 5,800m, YalungLa 5,300m

8.     Langtang Himal 200km via Ganjala Pass 5,130m and Tilman Pass 5,300m

9. Ganesh Himal/Langtang and Yala Peak 170km, LaurebinaLa 4,610m

10.   Manaslu Himal 140km, Larkya Pass 5,125m

11. Annapurna Himal North - Thorongla Pass 5,436 m

12.   Annapurna Himal – North 140km, Mesocanto Pass 5,230m

13.   Annapurna Himal - South 65km

14. Mustang/Damodar Himal Terilla Pass/Naar Kangla Pass 380km via TeriLa 5,600m, KangLa 5,325m, 380km

15.  Dhaulagiri Himal 110km, French Pass 5,150m and Dhampus Pass 5,150m

16.  Far West Nepal Simikot to Mt. Kailash and Tibet 100km, NaraLa Pass 4,507m

Karakoram treks and passes in Pakistan and China (775km):

1.    K2 BC South from Pakistan Baltoro Glacier 115km, Ghondogoro La 5,640m

2.    Biafo and Hispar Glaciers 132km, Hispar Pass 5,151m

3.    K2 BC North from China Shakskam Valley and K2 Glacier 278km, Aghil Pass 4,805m

4. Pahamagh, Nobande Sobande Choktoi Glaciers 155km

5. Haramosh La 5,200m 85km

India treks and passes (291km):

1.    Grand Zanskar Traverse (Darcha to Lamayuru) 291km, Shingo La 5,090m, Murgum La 4,000m, Singee La 5,000, Sirsi La 4,900m

BHUTAN HIMALAYA (300KM):

1. The Snowman Trek (11 Passes over 4500m to 5300m) Part 1, Part 2, Part 3

Mon - Bhutan

The main focus of my visit to Bhutan was to walk the Snowman Trek. As the result, I did not have the time nor the opportunity to explore the rich cultural heritage of this beautiful country in depth it deserves. The hike up to the Tiger Nest Monastery was really part of the Snowman (although not on the Snowman trail proper). The variety and depth of the Bhutanese culture warrant a separate trip dedicated to exploring its heritage.

Culturally, Bhutan is like no other Himalayan country. It is unique with its customs, dress and folklore. Its architecture is distinct and at times, monumental in scale. Even the Buddhist traditions are different from Nepal or India. One cannot ignore the visual impact of the Divine Madman and his Thunderbolt of Wisdom. Bhutan’s art is different from Nepal and India. Even the Tanka paintings are different. Bhutan employs ample resources to maintain its Gross Domestic Happiness index, the culture being one of the four of its pillars.

My overall impression was, that Bhutan resembles Switzerland of the Himalaya but less focused on money and banking and more on Buddhism, its king and overall equality for all Bhutanese. Of course it is a very superficial impression based on my very brief exposure to the actual Bhutanese society (and not its beautiful mountains).

Here is the snapshot of the sights I managed to visit on the way to and from the Snowman Trek.

The image of the Royal Family greets you at the arrival at Paro airport.

Where is Bhutan?  It is a common question. 

The Snowman Trek covers the top north - western quarter of the country.  There is much more to explore! 

The attractive people of the Royal Family wearing the finest of the traditional dress. 

The King cult is present even in the remotest of villages. 

Paro Town and Paro Valley

Paro Valley

Paro Valley

Paro Dzong. A Dzong is a distinctive type of fortified monastery found mainly in Bhutan and Tibet. The architecture is massive in style with towering exterior walls surrounding a complex of courtyards, temples, administrative offices, and monks' accommodation.

Sitting precariously 800 metres above the Paro valley, the Paro Taktsang Monastery (Tiger’s Nest Monastery) was built in the late 17th century on the site of a cave set into the cliff. Taktsang more accurately translates to “tigress’ lair” and aptly gets its name from the legend of its founding.

According to that legend, the 8th-century Indian Buddhist master Guru Rinpoche was carried up the mountain on the back of a disciple who had transformed herself into a tigress. Once they arrived, Guru Rinpoche then spent 3 years, 3 months, 3 days and 3 hours meditating in the cave. After he had finished, it became a holy place and became known as Paro Taktsang.

The monastery complex was built in 1692 by 4th Druk Desi Tenzin Rabgey around the Taktsang Senge Samdup cave, where Guru Padmasambhava meditated and practiced with students including Yeshe Tsogyal before departing the Kingdom of Tibet in the early 9th century.

A small temple where Yeshe Tsogyal meditated for 3 years, 3 months and 3 hours.

Taktsang Monastery (Tiger’s Nest)

Taktsang Monastery (Tiger’s Nest)

Taktsang Monastery (Tiger’s Nest) and the lush Paro Valley.

Beautiful temple in the Taktsang Monastery 

Taktsang Monastery 

Taktsang Monastery 

There were too many accidents with butter lamps in the past. It seems that all places of worship that we visited were at some point burned down by fire started by a butter lamp.   Now the butter lamps are housed in a separate enclosed building were the monks can play with them with no fear of burning down the house. 

To help you get to the Tiger’s Nest, you can rent a walking stick or hire a decked out mule for no effort on your part experience.  The easy walkup to the monastery complex takes 45min on a highway of a trail.  

Bhutanese Magpie 

Paro Dzong.  Paro Dzong, officially called Rinpung Dzong, was constructed in 1646 under the guidance of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel, the unifier of Bhutan. It was strategically built on a hill overlooking the Paro Valley to serve as both a fortress and a monastery. The site was chosen for its defensive advantages, protecting the region from Tibetan invasions.

Beyond its role in military defense, Paro Dzong has long been a central figure in the Bhutanese administration and religion. The Dzong has housed the district's government offices and monastic quarters, representing the delicate balance between Bhutan's civil and spiritual leadership. It played a crucial role in safeguarding the country's sovereignty during conflict and is a living symbol of Bhutan's rich heritage.

Paro Dzong is a masterpiece of traditional Bhutanese architecture, showcasing the country’s unique building techniques. The fortress is adorned with intricate wood carvings, bright murals, and exquisite paintings that narrate Buddhist legends. Its five-story central tower (Utse) stands tall, offering a glimpse into Bhutan's ancient architectural prowess.

The Dzong played a very important role in the history of the country as it served as a very effective stronghold to repel repeated Tibetan invasions during the 17th and the 18thcentury. Though it did suffer damages due to the earthquake in 1897 and fire in 1907, it was restored to its former glory in due course of time. Formerly it served as the Meeting Hall for the National Assembly but today it houses the Monastic Body and the District Government offices.  

Paro Dzong

Paro Dzong

Paro Dzong

Prayer Hall in Paro Dzong

Paro Dzong

Paro Dzong

The Punakha Dzong (the palace of great happiness or bliss), is the administrative centre of Punakha District in Punakha, Bhutan. The dzong was constructed by Ngawang Namgyal, in 1637–38. It is the second oldest and second largest dzong in Bhutan and one of its most majestic structures. The dzong houses the sacred relics of the southern Drukpa Lineage of the Kagyu school of Tibetan Buddhism, including the Rangjung Kasarpani and the sacred remains of Ngawang Namgyal and the tertoen Pema Lingpa.

The Dzong is located at the confluence of the Pho Chhu (father) and Mo Chhu (mother) rivers in the Punakha–Wangdue valley. The source of the Mo chu river is in the northern hills of Ligshi and Laya in Bhutan, and in Tibet. The Pho Chu River is fed by glaciers in the Lunana region of the Punakha valley. After the confluence of these two rivers, the main river is known as Puna Tsang chu.

The wooden bridge to Phunaka Dzong

Phunaka Dzong

Phunaka Dzong main prayer hall

Paro

Paro

In the region, there is a custom to chew areca nut and betel leaf because of its breath-freshening and relaxant properties. Sometimes there is a sexual symbolism attached to the chewing of the nut and the leaf. The areca nut represented the male and the betel leaf the female principle. Regular doma chewing causes the lips and tongue to be stained red.

Archery - the national sport of Bhutan

Phallus paintings in Bhutan are esoteric symbols, which have their origins in the Chimi Lhakhang monastery near Punakha, the former capital of Bhutan. The village monastery was built in honour of Lama Drukpa Kunley who lived at the turn of the 16th century and who was popularly known as the "Mad Saint" (nyönpa) or “Divine Madman” for his unorthodox ways of teaching, which amounted to being bizarre and shocking. He was a crazy saint who extensively travelled in Bhutan, who was fond of women and wine, and adopted blasphemous and unorthodox ways of teaching Buddhism. His sexual exploits included his hosts and promoters. He was utterly devoid of all social conventions and called himself the "Madman from Kyishodruk. Drukpa Kunley's intention was to shock the clergy, who were uppity and prudish in their behaviour and teachings of Buddhism. However, his ways appealed to lay practitioners. It was he who propagated the legend of painting phalluses on walls and flying hanging phalluses from roof tops of houses to drive away evil spirits and subdue demonesses.

The explicit paintings have become embarrassing to many of the country's urbanites, and this form of folk culture is informally discouraged in urban centers as modern Abrahamic cultural norms of shaming the human body and sexuality have spread in Bhutan's urban centers.

However phallus paintings can still be seen on the walls of houses and buildings throughout Bhutan, particularly in villages, and are credited as Kunley's creations. Traditionally symbols of an erect penis in Bhutan have been intended to drive away the evil eye and malicious gossip. The phallic symbols are generally not depicted in community temples and dzongs, which are places of worship where lamas or Buddhist monks and nuns who have adopted celibate lifestyles live. However, rural and ordinary houses continue to display them. Kunley's organ, as painted, is called the "Thunderbolt of Flaming Wisdom" as it unnerved demons and demonesses and subdued them. It is also said that he is "perhaps the only saint in the religions of the world who is almost exclusively identified with phallus and its creative power". It is for this reason that his phallus, as a symbol, is depicted in paintings on the walls of the houses.

While the history of use of phallus symbols is generally traced to Drukpa Kunley, studies carried out at the Center of Bhutan Studies (CBS) have inferred that the phallus was an integral part of the early ethnic religion associated with Bon that existed in Bhutan before Buddhism became the state religion. In Bon, the phallus was integral to all rituals. It is also argued by social science researchers that the phallus is a representation of "Worldly illusion of desires", and it is said that as a symbol of power and fertility of the animists of the Bön religion, the phallus's representation got enmeshed with Buddhism in Bhutan.

The belief that such a symbol brings good luck and drives away evil spirits is so much ingrained in the psyche of the common populace in Bhutan that the symbols are routinely painted outside walls of the new houses and even painted on number plates of trucks. The carved wooden phalluses are hung (sometimes crossed by a design of sword or dagger) outside, on the eaves of the new homes, at the four corners. As part of house warming ceremony of new houses, a traditional ritual involves erecting the phallus symbols at the four corners of the eaves of the house and one inside the house. A basket filled with carved wooden phalluses is raised to the roof of the house to fix them at the four cardinal corners. Groups of both men and women get hired by the owner of the house in raising the basket to the roof. (Credit to WIKIPIDIA for the wealth of info on this topic).

Thimpu - the capital of Bhutan

Why are all roofs green you ask?  “All buildings in Thimphu city have been ordered to paint their roofs red and green by the end of the year or pay a hefty fine. The decision, according to the Thromde, is for the city’s aesthetics and for environmental reasons. Meanwhile, this arrangement has not gone well with the residents. 

The Thromde has given till the end of December to complete the roof paintings.

All residential and commercial buildings in the city will need to have their roofs painted green, while government and institutional buildings should have red roofs.

Failure to do so will be penalized with a fine of Nu 50,000, the Thromde stated through a notification on 10th August.”

Thimpu

The gho is a traditional garment worn by Bhutanese laymen. It consists of three to four lengths of cloth that are sewn together to form a floor-length, left-crossing, loose robe with long sleeves. The robe overlaps in front, folds into two wide pleats at the back, and is held in place with a belt; it is then drawn up to achieve the desired length. The lengths of cloth are vertical; the gho is generally woven in silk or cotton in a variety of patterns.

The women in Bhutan dress elegantly in an ankle-length dress known as Kira. They are firmly fastened at the shoulders with either simple pins or complicated silver brooches also known as Koma. This is one way of wearing it. The other way is to wear it like a skirt down the waist, we refer to it as half Kira.

Traditionally they were handwoven with intricated designs and patterns made of raw silk. Nowadays they can be machine-made with cotton and other fibres. On special occasions, women wear bright coloured, complex-designed Kiras whereas, on ordinary days, they wear light weighted and simple patterned Kiras. Keeping in line with fashion, women in Bhutan these days match their Kiras with accessories, blouses, and even footwear.

One of the distinctive features of the women of Laya is their bamboo hat worn that is with colourful beads. The hat hardly covers the head. It neither protects them from rain or the sun but for the young women of Laya today, the hat is among the ornaments they save to wear during festivals.

The hat was worn daily a decade ago but not anymore. Today, are only two persons, a man and a woman in Laya’s Neylu chiwog who can weave the bamboo hat. Laya has five chiwogs with a population of more than 12,000 people.

Dorji is 52 years and Chimi Dem is 47.

Dorji said that the younger ones are not interested to learn hat weaving. “It’s concerning to see the hat disappearing. I am worried that it might die with me. No one is interested to learn,” he said.  Dorji said that the elderly women who wear the hat daily are his regular buyers. “The hat hardly lasts a year.”

Relaxing in Laya

Laya

Laya

Laya Home

Laya Bar and hangout

A small temple in Laya

Bhutan - Snowman Trek Part 1

The Snowman trek in Bhutan is either a miserable slog or a mountain bliss. It exceeds expectations for good and bad. It is one of a kind mountain epic journey through the incredible landscapes of Bhutan Himalaya. In its distance of 300km and 16,000 vertical meters it rewards and disappoints. One thing for sure, you can’t walk it and feel indifferent afterwards. It is truly one of the best treks in the world. An EPIC.

The Butanese people and its unique culture complete the experience. The encounters with the locals are intimate and personal. The people are kind and genuine. The Bhutan’s government wants to limit tourism and development. As a result, one is rewarded with a special experience that is truly one of a kind in the Himalaya.

“But what makes this trek so complicated?

The number of days, isolation, and altitude are factors to be taken into account as with many other Himalayan journeys. So, why so little success on this one? The answer is quite simple, trivial some would say: the weather.

Too early, the monsoon will put a lot of trails to the test and may cover some passes over 5000m with snow. Too late and the slightest depression coming from the Bay of Bengal will block all the passes. This trek can sometimes be seen as a great Himalayan lottery.” Laurent Boiveau 

The Snowman trek is in green.  The trek is sometimes referred to as Luana Trek as well.  The map is from the guidebook Trekking in Bhutan by Bart Jordans by Cicerone Press. 

The entire Himalaya range of Bhutan.  Mt. Chomolhari on left and Mount Ganghar Puenseum on the right.

Mt. Chomolhari, Chomolhari 2, Jitchu Drake and Takaphu.

The summit of Mt. Chomolhari and Jitchu Drake on the right

The hills of Bhutan with Kangchendzonga on the horizon

The first two days of the trek pass through a thick, moss covered forest on a wet and muddy trail.

The true heroes of the journey.

Day 2 of the Snowman Trek.  The Muddy camp.

Our first view of Mt. Chomolhari 7315m.

As we ascend higher, we approach the tree line at approximately 4000m.

We reached Mt. Chomolhari basecamp on day 4.

 Mt. Chomolhari glacier at approx 4000m.

Standing in front of Mt. Chomolhari

Chomolhari 2

Even in these remote parts of Bhutan, the Divine Madman left his mark.  An so did I!

A small shop at Mt. Chomolhari bc.  Well stocked with spirits and beer (and yak jerky).

Mt. Chomolhari bc

Mt. Chomolhari 7315m and Chomolhari 2

For acclimatization, I hiked 1000 vertical meters to 5000m.   This turned out to be a great viewpoint for the surrounding area.  It is located at the confluence of 3 valleys. 

Spectacular panorama from 5000m above the Chomolhari bc.

Twin Lakes and the pass named Bonte La 4890m

Bonte La

The valley leading to Bonte La

Looking down the valley of our ascent.

Mt. Chomolhari 1, 2 and Jitchu Drake 6850m

Very elegant angle of the Jitchu Drake 6850m.  This beautiful mountain was first climbed by Doug Scott and Victor Saunders.  Victor was with us on the Snowman Trek and shared his stories from the climb. 

Jitchu Drake

Mt. Chomolhari 1

Looking down at our camp at Mt. Cholomari bc.

Beautiful sunrise on Mt. Chomolhari

Moving on to the first pass of the journey: Nyile La 4890m.

Final few meters before Nyile La.

The Nyile La Pass at 4890.

Nyile La Pass with Mt. Chomolhari 1 and 2, Jitchu Drake and Tsheri Kang 6526m

Nyile La Pass and Mt. Jitchu Drake

Chomolhari 2 and Jitchu Drake

Jitchu Drake 6850m

The double summit of Jitchu Drake

Tshheri Kang 6526m.  Far in the distance is Tiger Mountain.  

Fantastic Panorama from the Nyiele La Pass.  The view extends to the mountains that we will cross in a week. 

Lingshi Dzong far below and the mountains we would traverse within a week.

The massive Tiger Mountain (Gancheta) 6840m.

Tiger Mountain 6840m and basically the line of our trek straight ahead.

Tsheri Kang 6526m above Nyilele La.

Looking west from the top of Nyilele La to where we came from.

The views from the trail between Nyilele La and Lingshi

Lingshi Dzong

Descending to our campsite.

Tsheri Kang 6526m and Sirima Gang 5784m

Tsheri Kang 6526m and Sirima Gang 5784m

We came across a dart throwing contest.  It is one of the national sports of Bhutan (next to archery).  The locals dress up for the occasion and take it quite seriously.  A colourful scarf is awarded for the bullseye throw.  

Pema, the horse lady.  She has 8 horses used to ferry supplies for us.  

Lingshi Dzong (fortress)

Mt. Tsheri Kang on the way to Lingshi Dzong.  The Dzong was recently renovated and opened just two days prior to our arrival! It was all beautifuly decorated for the occasion.  

The courtyard of the Dzong

Beautifully renovated Lingshi Dzong

Inside the Lingshi Dzong

The head Lama of the Lingshi Dzong

Lingshi

Lingshi village with the Dzong on the hill in the distance

In the Lingshi school

Lingshi school

Lingshi school

Goyok at 4000m between Lingshi and Chebisa

Small pass above Goyok

Goyok village

Goyok village

Chebisa village at 3990m

Chebisa village

Beautiful Bhutanese architecture in Chebisa village

Chebisa village

The blankets from our horses in Chebisa

Inside a Bhutanese home in Chebisa village

Bhutanese home in Chebisa

Above Chebisa village on the way to Gombu La pass 4440m

Gombu La pass at 4440m

Gombu La Pass

Going down to the campsite

Foggy evening and our mess tent

Local tea house

Jare La pass 4785m

Jare La Pass 4785m

Jare La Pass

Looking at the pass that we will have to cross the next day: Sinche La 5000m.  It is a long way down with a massive climb up to follow. 

Approach to Sinche La Pass 5000m

Desolate Sinche La Pass 5000m

Desolate pass and no views…

View from the hill above Sinche La Pass at 5100m.

The high Himalaya are hiding in the clouds.

at 5100m

Strange high altitude plants

Sinche La Pass

En route to the Limithang campsite.  The campsite is located just in front of the Tiger Mountain.  We are surrounded by  high peaks and glaciers but all hidden in the clouds.

down, down, down!

Sunrise on Tiger Mountain at Limiting campsite 4180m

Tiger Mountain 6840m

Tiger Mountain 6840m

Only 3 more hours to Laya village. 

Strange rock formations on the trail between Limithang and Laya village.

Tiger Mountain 6840m

Laya village

Mt. Tsenda Gang 6990 from Laya

Mt. Tsenda Gang seen from Laya

Laya village

A temple in Laya village

Laya boarding school

Students in Laya school

Laya school

Delivery to the Laya shopping street

Local shop - produce section

In Laya

Friendly Laya

Fun with the Laya people! 

Traditional bamboo hat from Laya

In a house in Laya with our guide and his friend.  The white cubes above the stove are dried hard yak cheese.

In our guide’s friend’s house in Laya

Friendly Laya

Yak herders in Laya

Bhutan - Snowman Trek Part 2

From Laya we climbed steadily higher. The next two passes were a foggy slog, disappointing, as we knew that the views were fantastic. But they were not to be. But then, the weather cleared up in the middle of the night and the morning delivered a visual punch on a Himalayan scale. The following few days made up for the fog and mist. From miserable slog to mountain heaven. This is the nature of this trek. You do have to win the weather lottery here to appreciate the Snowman experience…

The Part 2 covers the trail from Laya to Chozo.

Ascending 1000m from Laya to our next camp

Happy to see the campsite after the long climb

Feels remote now…Rodophu camp 4215m

Ascending to Tsemo La 4905m

Tsemo La 4905m

The lake at Tsemo La

The camp at Narethang 4945m.  Thankfully the weather cleared just in time for crossing the most spectacular pass of the trip: Karakachu La 5020m.

Full moon at Narethang camp

Beautiful morning!  Finally!

Karakachu La 5020m

On the left is Teri Kang 7130m to the right of it is Tongshanjiabu II 6930m

On the left is Jejekangphu Kang 6910.  The peaking he cloud on the right is Kangphu Kang I 7204m

Jejekangphu Kang 6910m

Nameless peaks in the 6000m altitude range

Kangphu Kang I 7204

On the far right you can see Zangophu Kang 7085 (Table Mountain)

The massive Teri Kang 7127m

Tsenda Gang is on the left 6900.  Teri Kang is in the centre 7127m.

Tsenda Gang 6900m

Teri Kang 7127m

Tarina camp 3950m

Keeping warm!

Tsenda Gang 6900m

Tashi and I.  Tashi was the assistant guide.

Woche, Lunana

Woche, Lunana

Woche, Lunana

Village of Woche

Woche general store.  You ask for what you are looking for and she may find it! 

Woche’s traditional architecture and decor. 

Green Lake camp - where is the lake?

Approaching Kesha La 4666m.  No views…

Kesha La 4666m

Kesha La

Descending from Kesha La

Walking to Chozo from Kesha La. It is a long way! 

Village of Lhedi on the way to Chozo. 

Lhedi school at 3850m

The friendly people of Lhedi

Chased by the rain

Chozo

Good morning Chozo! The view from my tent in the morning.  

Chozo horse change over

Chozo village and the 400 years old Dzong.  It was unfortunately closed.

Table Mountain emerging from the morning mist

King love in Chozo

Table Mountain and the village of Thanza

Rock formations above Chozo Village

Chozo’s morning commute to work. 

Mr. Ugyen Kelzang, 25 year old teacher from Chozo.

Chozo School and the teacher.  The school was the set for the movie “Yak in the Classroom”. 

Climbing the Chozo Ridge on the rest day.  It was a mental rest day for me. 

Chozo Ridge

Stunning Chozo Ridge - awesome views on both sides!

Tsoughu Glacier

Tsoughu Glacier

Chozo Ridge climbing to 5000m

Kangphu Kang III 6502m and Shuer Kangri 6270m

Kangphu Kang III 6502m and Shuer Kangri 6270m

Kangphu Kang III 6502m and Shuer Kangri 6270m

Table Mountain (left) and Gangkhar Punsum (on the right).  The massive ice lake is at risk of collapse.  If the lake bursts, it will cause significant damage as far as Punakha (a large town far down the valley).  

The Gangkhar Punsum massif and the Ice Lake. 

The Gangkhar Punsum massif

The Gangkhar Punsum massif

The Gangkhar Punsum massif

Village of Thanza

Thanza and the Mountains of Luana

Chozo and the mountains of Luana.  We are going over these mountains the following day.

Chozo Ridge

Blue mountain sheep

Ascending to Sintia La at 5200m from Chozo

Looking back at Chozo Ridge

Sintia La

Walking into a snowstorm at 5200m Sintia La

Sintia La 5200m

The flat Sintia La at 5200m

Looking forward to Lunana at our Tsho Chena camp at 5000m.  Cold night mens good wether! See Part 3 for Lunana Plateau. 

Bhutan - Snowman Trek Part 3

Lunana is the most remote region in the Bhutan Himalaya. It is a high plateau with the elevation above 5000m. Dotted with nameless mountains and glacial lakes, it is where the spirits live. It is the place where the earth touches the sky and words can’t describe its sublime beauty. Lunana is one of the most beautiful places in the Himalaya, not because of high impenetrable mountains but because of the poetry of light it evokes at every turn. We were lucky to win the wether lottery and be granted passage through its beautiful gates. Gratitude is what we left behind…

Kangphu Kang I 7204 in the clouds

Heaven

Loju La Pass 5145m

My birthday at 5145m.  It is beautiful and I feel grateful.

Night snowstorm at the basecamp for the highest pass of the trip.

The large mountain in the centre is Kangphu Kang 1 7204, Next to it is Kangphu 2 6945m,  The pointy peak not he right is Kangphu Kang 3 6502 above the Tsoughu Glacier.

Teri Kang 7130m.  

Kangphu Kang 1 7204m

Kangphu Kang 2 6945m and Kangphu Kang 3 6502m.  On the right is Shien Kangri 6270 above the Tsoughu Glacier.

The highest pass of the trip: Rinchen Zoe La 5350m.

Rinchen Zoe La 5350m

The glaciated mountains are close to 6000m in height.

The Migoi (a strong man or Yeti in Bhutanese) and Mechum (little yeti that inhabits lower elevation forests) or:  Me and Victor Saunders. 

Now lower down the valley we encountered a large yak caravan traveling to Chozo.

Climbing back up 1000m to the next camp.

Another snowstorm, by now we are used to it.  The basecamp for our last pass: Tempe La 4665m.

Tempe La 4665m

Tempe La 4665m

Looking down at our descent route

The fine people I had the privilege to spend the Snowman Trek with:  Thank you! Each person brought a special something to the tapestry of this epic experience.  

Tempe La Pass from the south.

One of the two sacred lakes we passed on the way down.  

Om Tscho Lake - a place for pilgrimages for the Bhutanese buddhists. 

The way home!

Lunana is well guarded from all sides!  

Long, long descent.  The Snowman trek keeps you in its grip until the last hour. 

And just like that, civilization…and beer :-)

Our last camp.  It is finished.  I am sad and elated at the same time.  The Snowman Trek embodies the duality of experience. To enjoy it, one needs to employ a non-dualistic perception of reality.  Easier said than done, but what an opportunity for practice! 

What remains is gratitude

North of 60º - Polar Adventures

I once saw a map of the northern lands drawn from the perspective of the North Pole. It was at the airport shop in Iqaluit on Baffin Island. On that map, there were no borders, the North was shown as one land united by culture of the northern people and the harsh climate of the latitudes north of 60º.

The North is a very special place. It is remote and wild. There are very few places with this kind of energy. It is not easy to get to, or to travel around. The effort is rewarded though. The North shapes people’s characters and perspectives. It attracts a special kind of adventurer. The wild and untamed nature and the people who live there, leave a lasting memory and desire for more.

My first trip to the North was in 2003. After visiting the Ayuituk National Park on Baffin Island, I was in awe of what I saw and experienced. I was hooked. Someone once said: you do not visit the North twice. You either go once and hate it, or it steals your heart. That trip in 2003 was the beginning of my continuing adventures in the lands north of 60º.

1. Ellesmere Island, Canada 82º North

2. Resolute, Cornwallis Island, Canada 74.69º North

3. Bylot Island, Canada 72º North

4. Norway Nord Cap 71.17º North

5. Sam Ford Fjord, Baffin Island, Canada 70º North

6. Ayuituk National Park, Baffin Island, Canada 66.66º North

7. East Greenland 66º North

8. Iceland 64º North

9. Denali, Alaska 63º North

10. Kamchatka, Russia 61.43º North

11. Kluane National Park, Yukon 60.75º North

12. Alaska Highway, Canada 60.06º North

East Greenland Trekking

The idea of going to Greenland hatched during one of the flights from Europe to Canada some time ago. Looking down from 30,000 feet at the rugged mountains below sparked the desire to visit and hike or climb there one day. That day came in mid July as a result of rather sudden decision. In May I received an email about this trip and decided to jump on it.

This 150 km trek from Karale to Tasillaq Fjord is located in East Greenland near the villages of Kulusuk and Tasiilaq. From Kulusuk, we took a speed boat for a 2+ hour ride to the “trail head” or the starting point, as there are no trails in Greenland. East Greenland is very remote and sparsely populated. There are no rescue helicopters and in case of inclement weather help can be a long way away. The trek starts in the area known as Karale and culminates at the end of the Tasiilaq Fjord. It is very varied and passes through some incredible scenery. At the mid point we resupplied in the village of Kumiut. The route is very well chosen and it packs a lot into the 10 day adventure. Since much of the east coast of Greenland is very difficult to access, this trek provides a great opportunity to get a feel of this part of the world.

Greenland is the land of superlatives and no narrative can convey the serenity and grandeur of the place. This part of Greenland is different from Baffin Island but reminded me of Tierra Del Fuego in southern Patagonia, but it is much bigger and wilder. The logistics and cost of traveling in this part of Greenland make joining a group much more attractive than going solo. Any movement between points in the summer is done by boat or helicopter, both expensive. There is also the danger of polar bears and a gun is required for safety. This is another reason to travel in a group.

As elsewhere is the high Arctic, the weather can be unpredictable and savage and can turn on a dime. One day it is calm and sunny and the following evening the wind is blowing 120km/hr. This affects flights and boat travel. It is easy to get stranded with no way out. It can also make hiding from the wind difficult as the terrain in very open.

Thanks to Arctic Hiking and Expeditions for organizing this fantastic trip!

The western edge of the Greenland icecap from Europe-Canada flight

Kulusuk is directly across from Iceland. On the map above is it covered by a white blob :-) But see below for detail.

The Sermiligaq and Angmagssalik Fjord system. We covered a small potion of this vast region within the massive Greenland. Kulusuk is on an island at the bottom portion of the map.

The east coast of Greenland

The coast near Kulusuk. When the flight from Iceland approaches Greenland and the wild coast comes into view, feelings of euphoria and apprehension mix. It is exciting to see the land which we will soon traverse.

The sea ice near Kulusuk. The packed sea ice can make boat travel very difficult or impossible. The sea ice is moved by currents and/or winds. There are two prevailing winds in Greenland: the northern wind with blows the sea ice from the north to south, and the west wind which blows the sea ice away from the shore and into the open ocean. In 2024 there was a prevalence of the north wind creating higher than usual sea ice pack in the area we visited.

Kulusuk airport is a dirt strip surrounded by mountains. It was originally built to support the radar station but with commercial intent as well. There are no flights when there is fog or when the wind speed exceeds 60km/hr. The flights from Iceland can fly all the way to Kulusuk and not land due to poor visibility. This is how fast the weather changes here.

The desolate Kulusuk airstrip. The flight from Iceland is 1 hr and 30 min. It is often cancelled or delayed due to weather. There are no flights on Sundays. Our flight scheduled for Saturday was cancelled due to fog which came in very suddenly so we had to wait until Monday to leave. The day after our departure had a wind forecast at 140 km/hr. This was a part of a major storm that would last two days and suspend all flights. The airport also has regular helicopter Air Greenland flights to Tasiilaq multiple times each day.

The barren coast near Kulusuk

The cost of Greenland

Kulusuk harbour

Kulusuk is located in a spectacular spot. There are a lot of hiking/trekking/climbing opportunities right outside the village.

Kulusuk - population 250

There are burial sites all over the village in addition to the local cemetery.

Kulusuk

The large building in the distance is the Kulusuk Hotel - the only and very expensive hotel in this place.

This photo was taken at 1.30 am. Although not daytime light, it is quite bright.

Kulusuk

Kulusuk Harbour

Hunting is a big part of life here. Since there is no refrigeration, keeping the catch “on the sea ice" is a common custom. Freshly killed seals in the Kulusuk harbour.

The sled dog huskies outnumber people in Kulusuk. They howl at night and sometimes engage in fierce fights. The are definitely not pets and should not be approached.

One of many husky puppies. Apparently not the most intelligent breed interested only in 3 Fs: food, fights and reproduction.

The pre departure pow wow going over the route.

The boat trip from Kulusuk to Karale. It is an obstacle course between floating ice.

The boat is pretty beat up from hitting ice too many times!

Mesmerizing light found at higher latitudes.

Icebergs are like sculptures that are in constant motion and transition. Not two are the same. The colour and intensity change with the light and water.

As we approached the Karale area, massive glaciers came into view. This is the Knud Rasmussen Glacier. These glaciers dislodge the ice chunks that become icebergs. Sometimes it is difficult to believe that the huge icebergs come from glaciers.

Karale - our campsite for two nights.

The Karale Glacier

The Karale Glacier. The pointy peak’s name is The Big Brother (elevation 2230m). Considering that it is so close to the sea (0m), the prominence is at par with the high ranges such as Karakoram or Himalaya. The vertical relief of Ama Dablam in the Khumbu in Nepal for instance, is only 1100m.

The mess tent is a conical design used since early Arctic expeditions. It is easy and quick to set up and bring down.

Drone photos of the Karale Fjord.

The northern arm of the Karale Glacier. Not long ago both arms of the glacier in the photo were connected.

We are almost at the latitude of the Arctic Circle - 66.3 degrees north.

Beautiful views over the Karale Fjord from a small pass

Spectacular views to the fjord and the massive glaciers

Arctic foxes were in each camp. They were looking for food and would take anything that they could carry away. Cute but sneaky.

An abandoned US military base from WW2. This base was used to refuel flights from the US to England. After the war ended, the US military abandoned the base leaving everything behind: hundreds of empty fuel drums, trucks, generators and hundreds of Coca-Cola bottles. It is fascinating to explore and photograph but also a visual scar on this pristine land.

I want these tires for my car! Sitting in the open for 80 years, exposed to an intense UV radiation but intact and inflated!

The Americans were here :-)

IkateqFjord

Ikateq Fjord - the icebergs float by like giant ships

Ikateq Fjord

Ikateq Fjord

"The Wings of Desire" :-) 

We required a “short” shuttle as we could not cross a river delta due to high water levels. The ride was 30 km long to get us to a spot 5 km away. Unfortunately it required a circumnavigation of a small island and a high speed race through the open sea. I got thoroughly wet and cold from the water splash as I wore my hiking clothes only expecting a short shuttle. I should have dressed like the locals in the photo below!

Navigating tightly packed sea ice. Sometimes you can’t see much from the low boat.

This campsite was 5 km from the village of Kumiut. It was situated on a quiet inlet with Caribbean coloured water.

Our resupply walk to Kumiut

The small village of Kumiut. The village is located at the entrance to the Taliisaq Fjord, our next destination.

Kumiut

Kumiut Harbour

Kumiut Harbour

Looking across the bay from our campsite. The boat ride was from the opposite end of the sand bar (which is the mouth of a large river that we could not cross). What looks close by, required a 30km detour by boat.

Crossing a small pass to the Tasiilaq Fjord

Nature's water fountain 

Another beautiful spot at the Tasiilaq Fjord. This is an Arctic night photo taken around midnight.

Tasiilaq Fjord from the drone. The pointy peak at the end of the Fjord is the Big Brother which we also saw from the Karale Fjord.

The Tasiilaq mountain hut is located behind the mountains in the foreground.

Looking back along the Tasiilaq Fjord.

The area along the Tasiilaq Fjord

Camp 2 along the Tasiilaq Fjord.

A small hike above our cap at the Tasiilaq Fjord. If you zoom in, you can see the pointy mess tent along the shore far below.

The calm waters of the Tasiilaq Fjord

Here the landscape is very Patagonia-like.

The end of Tasiilaq Fjord

A small snow gully blocks the otherwise easy access the Tasiilaq mountain hut.

Tasiilaq mountain hut - a great base for exploring and climbing in this area.

A loo with a view. Of course you leave the door open to admire the spectacular surroundings!

Hiking in the hills around the hut. You can see the hut on a rocky promontory on the right of the photo.

Climbing a small mountain behind the hut.

You can see the red hut far below.

Hiking around 11 pm. You can hike all night as it does not get dark.

A pairing in the mountain hut of the scene right outside the front door.

On our return journey, the weather shifted. We were very lucky with the sunny and windless conditions.

Waiting for the boat to Kulusuk surrounded by the mountain of our crap.

Spectacular scenery of the Tasiilaq Fjord in changing weather. The incoming fog and rain would cancel out flight the following day.

The trek blog in the Kulusuk Hotel :-)

On the Trail of Teutonic Order Castles in Northern Poland

Malbork - The capital of the Teutonic Order

Malbork Castle is located in the north of Poland, on the east bank of the River Nogat. It is the most complete and elaborate example of a Gothic brick-built castle complex in the characteristic and unique style of the Teutonic Order.  The Teutonic Order State was founded in the 13th century by German communities of military monks who carried out crusades against the pagan Prussians and Lithuanians living on the south Baltic coast, as well as against the Christian Kingdom of Poland. It reached its greatest influence in the 14th century. The castle-convent embodies the drama of late medieval Christianity, straining between extremes of sanctity and violence.  Malbork Castle consists of three fortified castles, with several hundred houses, granaries, and other buildings surrounded by two rings of defensive walls. The castle today is beautifully restored. Its labyrinth of rooms, turrets, stairways, and halls contains a vast collection of amber, armour, paintings, and furnishings. It remains a unique example of the building style of the Teutonic Order.

The castle was built by the Teutonic Order after the conquest of Old Prussia. Its main purpose was to strengthen their own control of the area following the Order's 1274 suppression of the Great Prussian Uprising of the Baltic tribes. No contemporary documents survive relating to its construction, so instead the castle's phases have been worked out through the study of architecture and the Order's administrative records and later histories. The work lasted until around 1300, under the auspices of Commander Heinrich von Wilnowe. The castle is located on the southeastern bank of the river Nogat. It was named Marienburg after Mary, patron saint of the religious Order. The Order had been created in Acre (present-day Israel). When this last stronghold of the Crusades fell to Muslim Arabs, the Order moved its headquarters to Venice before arriving in Poland.

Malbork became more important in the aftermath of the Teutonic Knights' conquest of Gdañsk (Danzig) and Pomerania in 1308. The Order's administrative centre was moved to Malbork from Elblag (Elbing). The Grand Master of the Teutonic Knights, Siegfried von Feuchtwangen, who arrived in Malbork from Venice, undertook the next phase of the fortress construction. In 1309, in the wake of the papal persecution of the Knights Templar and the Teutonic takeover of Danzig, Feuchtwangen relocated his headquarters to the Prussian part of the Order's monastic state. He chose the site of Marienburg conveniently located on the Nogat in the Vistula Delta. As with most cities of the time, the new centre was dependent on water for transportation.

The castle was expanded several times to house the growing number of Knights. Soon, it became the largest fortified Gothic building in Europe, on a nearly 21 ha site. The castle has several subdivisions and numerous layers of defensive walls. It consists of three separate castles - the High, Middle and Lower Castles, separated by multiple dry moats and towers. The castle once housed approximately 3,000 'brothers in arms'.

The favourable position of the castle on the river Nogat allowed easy access by barges and trading ships arriving from the Vistula and the Baltic Sea. During their governance, the Teutonic Knights collected river tolls from passing ships, as did other castles along the rivers. They controlled a monopoly on the trade of amber. When the city became a member of the Hanseatic League, many Hanseatic meetings were held there.

In the summer of 1410, the castle was besieged following the Order's defeat by the armies of Wladyslaw II Jagiello and Vytautas the Great (Witold) at the Battle of Grunwald. Heinrich von Plauen successfully led the defence in the Siege of Marienburg (1410), during which the city outside was razed.

Olsztyn

Olsztyn Castle is a brick gothic castle located in the centre of Olsztyn in northern Poland.  Officially called the Castle of Warmian Cathedral Chapter in Olsztyn, the Castle is not large.  Olsztyn Castle wasn’t intended to be an actual residence for the Chapter. Instead, the Chapter wished to have an administrative centre for overseeing its own interests during the settlement process in this part of Warmia. 

During the mid-14th century, the Chapter didn’t hold any notable defensive aspirations concerning the building of the Castle. This is because the area was no longer under threat from the Lithuanians. In contrast, the Chapter’s primary objective was to demonstrate its feudal grip over Olsztyn. 

Olsztyn Castle was never directly in the hands of the Teutonic knights. Nevertheless, Warmia was politically dependent on the Teutonic Order. Therefore, the safety of the bishop’s dominion was ensured.   The most distinctive feature of the cloister is the chart of the spring equinox drawn by astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus in 1517. Drawn on plaster work, this table is a record of an experiment carried out by Copernicus between 25 January and 20 April of that year.

Just below the chart is the entrance to the residential apartment once occupied by Copernicus. He was the administrator of the Castle in the years 1516-19 and 1520-21.

Frobmork - The resting place of Copericus

Frombork was first mentioned in 1278 – a few years later the cathedral in nearby Braniewo burnt down and the local bishop of Warmia decided to move the Warmia Chapter to Frombork. The original German name of the town (the area was under the Teutonic Order rule then) – “Frauenburg” – means it is dedicated to Virgin Mary.

For centuries Frombork developed as in fact two separate entities – the Cathedral Hill and the town around – they got united only in 1926.

Since Frombork has been one of the most popular religious, cultural, and educational centers in the region, it attracted numerous wise people, the most famous one was of course astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus.

The official name of Frombork Cathedral is Archcathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and St. Andrew and it was built in the 14th century (with further additions, like spires from the 16th century). This is one of the most spectacular churches you can see in Poland, it impresses both outside and inside with its Gothic architecture.

After a stint in city of Olsztyn, Copernicus's remains returned to his original resting location (under the cathedral’s floor), but his grave got an upgrade. After his death in 1543 he lay for centuries in an unmarked grave, but his new plot has a black tombstone with six planets orbiting a golden sun. The ceremony concluded a several week tour of a wooden casket with the astronomer’s remains. The ceremony included shows of respect from the Catholic Church, which eventually had to admit that Copernicus was right about the whole planets-moving-around-the-sun.

Scientists found what they believed to be Copernicus’s body in 2005, and confirmed in 2008 that it was his by matching DNA from bones found at the cathedral with genetic data from hair tucked into one of the astronomer's books.

Bytòw

The castle in Bytów was built by the Teutonic Knights in 1398-1405. The major construction works were supervised by Nicolaus Fellensteyn, a master builder of the Order. The construction of the castle fell to the period when Jacob von Reinach was the procurator of Bytów and Konrad von Jungingen was the Order's Grand Master. The castle was located on a hill, towering above the town, which guaranteed excellent natural defence. The castle, very modern for those days, was a seat of the local administration officials, a border fort and a stopover for knights arriving from western Europe to Malbork. The seat of the Bytów procurator, the castle, most probably housed from a few to more than a dozen knights accompanied by their pages and lansquenets. The complete crew of the castle could count a few dozens.

During the Thirteen Years' War (1454-1466) Bytów Castle was ceded by the towns people of Gdańsk to the Polish King, Kazimierz Jagiellończyk. In 1454 it was granted by the King to the Duke of Pomerania, Eric II, whose family, the Gryfits, ruled the castle and the lands of Bytów until the death of the last member of the dynasty, Bogusław XIV. The castle, enlarged by the Gryfit dukes in the second half of the 16th century, became a seat of the local administration officials in the early 17th century and a summer residence of Pomeranian dukes.

Lidzbark Warminski

Lidzbark Gothic Castle was built in 1350-1401 on a site previously occupied by a small Prussian fort called Lecbarg, which had been situated between two rivers: the Łyna and the Symsarna. For many years Lidzbark Castle was a residence of the bishops of Warmia and a stronghold protecting the eastern border of their domain.

The basic structure of the castle consists of four wings enclosing the inner ward, surrounded by two-storey, arcaded wall walks, which are an only example in Poland of Gothic castle walks preserved in an ideal condition until our days. Two settlements outside the castle walls were built around the same time as the castle. The southern one contained a stable for horses, granaries and a coach house. In the northern one (industrial in character) there was a mill, a sawmill, a grinding workshop, a copper forge, a fulling mill and a tannery. The castle and the two settlements were surrounded by a ring of fortified walls, separate from the town, and moats supplied with water from the Symsarna river, which lies higher than the Łyna.

By the power of the Second Peace Treaty of Torun signed in 1466, Warmia was incorporated into Poland. Since then until 1795 Lidzbark Castle was a residence of many outstanding subjects of the Polish kings, who represented the best of the Polish culture. They created an important cultural centre in Lidzbark, which opposed, politically and congregationally, to the Lutheran ducal court in Königsberg.

One of the bishops of Warmia was Lucas Watzenrode, a maternal uncle of Nicolas Copernicus. Owing to his uncle's influence, Copernicus bound his mature life as well as his scientific and public activity with Warmia and Lidzbark Castle. The astronomer lived at the castle in Lidzbark for eight years: first after completing his studies in Cracow, at the turn of the years 1495-1496, and then, having returned from Italian universities from 1503 to 1510. At that time, the bishop's court shaped Copernicus' attitude against the Teutonic Order. More importantly, finding peace and quiet under the castle's roof, Copernicus was able to form the principles of his heliocentric theory, which he put in writing in the so-called Commentary. Later, he developed and completed the theory in his memorable work On the Revolutions of Celestial Spheres. While in Lidzbark, Copernicus also translated, from Greek to Latin, Letters of Theophylaktos Simokattes, which were then printed in Cracow in 1509. Since the end of the 16th century Lidzbark Castle was slowly losing its defensive character and eventually turned into a splendid ducal court, richly furnished with exquisite pieces of furniture, libraries and arts objects. The castle rooms were adapted to serve the new function - many were divided into smaller chambers and lavishly decorated with paintings.

Reszel

The first Teutonic stronghold was built in Reszel already in 1241 but the construction of a brick castle began only over a century later. It was due to endless rebellions of the Barts, a Prussian tribe, who had never accepted the conquest and continually attacked the Teutonic outpost. Since 1243 Reszel was officially granted to Warmian bishops but the Teutonic squad left the stronghold only in 1300.

Bishop John I of Meisen started the construction of the castle in 1350. It was continued (since 1355) by John II Stryprock, and finished by Henry III Sorbom in 1401. Henry of Sorbom was well-known for his passion for grandness and it was in his time that a south wing with apartments for bishops and cloisters were built. The castle and borough fortifications were joined together.

By the Treaty of Toruń in 1466 Warmia was incorporated into Poland. In ab. 1505 bishop Łukasz Watzenrode initiated the construction of new fortified walls around the castle. The fortifications, strengthened by bastions on the corners, were adjusted for use of firearms. At that time Nicolaus Copernicus, the bishop’s nephew and also his secretary and personal physician was a frequent visitor of the castle. In 1594-1597, at the time of cardinal Andrzej Batory’s rule, the castle, which had already lost its military significance, was converted into a bishops’ hunting residence.

Ketrzyn

The town of Kętrzyn (until 1946 Rastenburg) was founded by the Teutonic Knights at the Prussian settlement called Rast. Initially there was a wooden watchtower, around which developed a settlement. In 1357 the commander of Bałga Johann Schindekopf granted the settlement civic rights. Shortly thereafter, in the city began construction of the defensive church dedicated to St. George, castle and defense walls.

The Kętrzyn castle was raised in the second half of the 14th century in the south-west corner of the urban battlements. Castle contained a chapel, bakery, kitchen, mill, malt house, brewery, the meat store, grain silos, storage, armory and a powder magazine. The most representative northern wing was occupied by pfleger - prosecutor, official position of the Teutonic Order. After the year of 1525 the castle became the county seat of the Duke of Prussia.

Gdansk

The city of Danzig (Gdańsk) was captured by the State of the Teutonic Order on 13 November 1308, resulting in a massacre of its inhabitants and marking the beginning of tensions between Poland and the Teutonic Order. Originally the knights moved into the fortress as an ally of Poland against the Margraviate of Brandenburg. However, after disputes over the control of the city between the Order and the King of Poland arose, the knights murdered a number of citizens within the city and took it as their own.

St. Mary's Church (Bazylika Mariacka) is the largest brick church in the world. According to tradition, as early as 1243 a wooden Church of the Assumption existed at this site, built by Prince Swantopolk II. The foundation stone for the new brick church was placed on on 25 March 1343. At first a six-span bay basilica with a low turret was built, erected from 1343 to 1360. Parts of the pillars and lower levels of the turret have been preserved from this building.

The clock tower of the Town Hall. The original structure of the Town Hall, built in the 14th century, burnt down in 1556. It was rebuilt, only to be destroyed again in WWII. Following the war, the Town Hall was painstakingly restored along with the rest of the town.

The Fountain of Neptune, a nod to Gdansk’s maritime importance. The bronze statue was created in the 16th century, and turned into a fountain some years later.

Mariacka Street is known for being one of the amber markets of Gdansk Old Town. The entire street is lined with amber merchants, with shops on either side.

Wolfsschanze Hitler's HQ, Ketrzyn Poland and Peenemunde WW2 V1/V2 Research Centre in North Germany

Hitler’s headquarters in Europe

This place is remote by European standards. I think it is a good destination for persons interested in WW2 history. I thought that it was very interesting and well presented so definitely worth time and effort to get there. In addition to the main site, there are more impressive bunkers located on private lands and definitely worth a visit. The museum’s website is also very well done and full of interesting information and photos not even presented at the Wolfssahanze.

The Wolf's Lair, or Wolfsschanze, was situated in the Masurian woods of East Prussia, near the small East Prussian town of Rastenburg (now Kętrzyn in Poland). This location was chosen for its seclusion and strategic advantage, being far from the major war fronts and well-protected against air raids. The site's remote location in a dense forest provided natural camouflage and made it difficult for enemy forces to locate and attack.

Construction of the Wolf's Lair began in 1940, a massive undertaking that transformed a remote woodland into one of the most fortified military headquarters of the Nazi regime. The complex sprawled over an area of about 6.5 square kilometers and was constructed by Organisation Todt, a civil and military engineering group in Nazi Germany. It consisted of over 80 buildings, including bunkers, barracks, two airfields, a railway station, power plants, and even a teahouse.

The heart of the complex was the heavily fortified bunkers, including Hitler's own bunker, which had walls up to 8 meters thick made of reinforced concrete to withstand direct hits from bombs. Wolf's Lair, known in German as Wolfsschanze, was a critical command center for Adolf Hitler during World War II.  

The choice of location reflected strategic and security considerations, nestled far from the reach of Allied bombing campaigns yet close enough to the Eastern Front to oversee operations directly. The location in East Prussia was strategically chosen, close enough to the front lines for direct oversight yet secluded and secure from potential Allied attacks. On June 22, 1941, Germany launched Operation Barbarossa, the largest military invasion in history, against the Soviet Union.

See the excellent website of the museum at https://wolfsschanze.pl/en/

The plan of the site at the entrance. This is the inner circle of the complex. It is possible to join a driving tour to see other facilities in more remote locations.

On January 24, 1945, with the Soviet forces closing in, the decision was made to evacuate and abandon Wolf's Lair. This move signaled the imminent collapse of the Nazi regime and the end of Hitler's tyrannical rule, which had brought untold suffering and devastation to Europe.

In a bid to prevent the Soviets from using the facility or discovering its secrets, German forces systematically destroyed Wolf's Lair before their retreat. Explosives were used to demolish the bunkers and buildings, leaving the once-formidable complex in ruins.

The Goring’s bunker is one of the few that is partially intact and possible to enter.

Inside the Goring’s bunker

The other half of the Goring’s bunker has been blown up by the Soviet army

The reconstruction of the meeting room where the assassination attempt on Hitler took place. It is quite accurate comparing it to historical photographs.

The communications bunker

The communications bunker from the outside.

The area is quite remote and covered in thick forest (infested with mosquitoes). The entire area is also dotted with lakes and marshes.

There is a smaller and better preserved private zone near Wolfsschanze. The bunkers are intact. They are connected by underground tunnels that are fun to explore.

Massive bunkers are hidden in the forest.

Historical photos help to visualize the life inside during the war. It was damp, dark and cramped.

One of the tunnels connecting bunkers.

Some of the well preserved civilian bunkers in Ketrzyn.

Another famous bunker - the Hitler’s Bunker in Berlin where he committed suicide at the end of WW2.

This is what remains - a parking lot

The location of Hitler’s bunker in Berlin

The photo of the bunker from after WW2

The Soviets razed the Chancellery buildings and also attempted to destroy the bunker, without much luck. The site would sit unused and neglected until after the fall of the Berlin Wall, when development of the area prompted the discovery of several underground sections. These were promptly destroyed, although there is rumor that some rooms (sealed to the public) remain. Not wanting the space to become a Neo-Nazi shrine, the German government kept the location of the bunker undisclosed for many years. Nondescript apartment and office buildings, as well as the parking lot, were erected on the site and the bunker went unmentioned. The space was not officially recognized as the place of Hitler’s death until June of 2006, when a plaque including historical background and a schematic diagram of the bunker was quietly placed at the intersection of In den Ministergärten and Gertrud-Kolmar-Straße.

Peenemünde Army Research Center

Peenemunde is a peninsula in northern Germany on the Baltic coast. It was here from 1936 that the Nazi regime opened the Peenemünde Army Research Centre and under Wernher von Braun it was where the development of the first rockets took place: the V1 ‘Doodlebug’ and latterly the V2 rocket.

The site was heavily bombed once the Allies realised the importance of the site and the RAF launched several raids using Lancster bombers: the remains of one of them can be seen in a lake at Peenemünde.

In November 1938, Walther von Brauchitsch ordered construction of an A-4 production plant at Peenemünde, and in January 1939, Walter Dornberger created a subsection of Wa Pruf 11 for planning the Peenemünde Production Plant project.  By midsummer 1943, the first trial runs of the assembly-line in the Production Works at Werke Süd were made, but after the end of July 1943 when the enormous hangar Fertigungshalle 1 (F-1, "Mass Production Plant No. 1") was just about to go into operation, Operation Hydra bombed Peenemünde.

Several German guided missiles and rockets of World War II were developed by the facility in Peenemunde, including the V-2 rocket (A-4). The facility also performed preliminary design work on very-long-range missiles for use against the United States. That project was sometimes called "V-3" and its existence is well documented. The Peenemünde establishment also developed other technologies such as the first closed-circuit television system in the world, installed at Test Stand VII to track the launching rockets.

The supersonic wind tunnel at Peenemünde's "Aerodynamic Institute" eventually had nozzles for speeds up to the record speed of Mach 4.4 (in 1942 or 1943), as well as an innovative desiccant system to reduce the condensation clouding caused by the use of liquid oxygen, in 1940.

The RAF Bomber Command attacked the Peenemunde facility on the night of 17/18 August 1943 in Operation Hydra. Hydra was the first operation against the German V-weapon programme.  The British lost 40 bombers and 215 aircrew, and several hundred enslaved workers in the nearby Trassenheide forced labour camp were killed. The Luftwaffe lost twelve night-fighters and about 170 German civilian personnel were killed, including two V-2 rocket scientists.

For more information see the museum’s webpage: https://museum-peenemuende.de

The research and development carried out in Peenemünde was not only crucial to the course of WWII, but impacted the future of weapons of mass destruction, as well as space travel.

The areal photos used by RAF in planning of bombing raids.

The former power plant is still intact and was in use up until 1990. It now houses a technical museum, the Peenemünde Historisch-Technisches Museum, devoted to the  science, development and construction of the rockets at Peenemünde. 

The building housing main exhibits of the museum.

V1

V1

Replica of the V2 rocket. True to size.

The ruins of the liquid oxygen fuel production plant in Peenemunde.

Inside the old electrical plant

Old Luftwaffe Headquarters in Berlin

Old Luftwaffe Headquarters in Berlin

Central Mexico - Mexico City, Puebla and Teotihuacan

Mexico City or CDMX is the heart of Mexico. With 30 million people, it is the size of a small country. It is home to an incredible variety of interesting things to see and do. The city has been built on top of the capital of the Aztec Empire, Templo Mayor. The entire old section of Mexico City is one large archeological site with new discoveries being made every year.

The city is home of very vibrant cultural scene with something for everyone. It is also home to one of the greatest Anthropological and Archeological museums in the world. The massive volcanoes in the vicinity of the City offer fantastic climbing and hiking opportunities.

Only 50 km away is the mysterious archeological site of Teotihuacan with massive pyramids of the Sun and Moon. The origin of this ancient civilization predating the Aztecs is unknown. After visiting Mexico City for the first time in 2021 (during my excursion to Pico Orizaba), I was so impressed that i returned for a longer stay in 2024. I am sure it is not my last time visiting this wonderful place.

Teotihuacan is an ancient Mesoamerican city located 30 miles (50 km) northeast of modern-day Mexico City. The city, which was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987, was settled as early as 400 B.C. and became the most powerful and influential city in the region by 400 A.D. By the time the Aztecs found the city in the 1400s and named it Teotihuacan (meaning “the place where the gods were created”), the city had been abandoned for centuries. Teotihuacan’s origins, history, and culture largely remain a mystery. (www.history.com)

Teotihuacan (also written Teotihuacán) is arranged in a grid layout that covers about 8 square miles (20 square kilometers). It contains around 2,000 single-story apartment compounds, as well as various pyramids, plazas, temples and palaces of nobles and priests.

The main buildings of Teotihuacan are connected by the Avenue of the Dead (or Miccaotli in the Aztec language Nahuatl). The Avenue of the Dead is a 130-foot- (40-meter-) wide, 1.5-mile- (2.4-km-) long road that’s oriented slightly east (15.5 degrees) of true north and points directly at the nearby sacred peak of Cerro Gordo, an extinct volcano. (www.history.com)

Temple of Quetzalcoatl (the Feathered Serpent).

The city contains several large, important structures: The Pyramid of the Moon, the Pyramid of the Sun, the Ciudadela (“Citadel”) and the Temple of Quetzalcoatl (the Feathered Serpent).

Surrounded by smaller pyramids and platforms, the Pyramid of the Moon is situated at the northern end of the Avenue of the Dead and faces south. Standing at 140-feet (43-meters) high with a base measuring 426 by 511 feet (130 by 156 meters), the Pyramid of the Moon is the second largest structure in Teotihuacan.

Less than half a mile south of the Pyramid of the Moon stands the largest structure in Teotihuacan, the Pyramid of the Sun. Facing west, the pyramid stands at 216 feet (66 meters) with a base measuring approximately 720 by 760 feet (220 by 230 meters). Lining the immense Avenue of the Dead, the unique group of sacred monuments and places of worship in Teotihuacan (the Pyramids of the Sun, the Moon and Quetzalcoatl and the Palaces of Quetzalmariposa, the Jaguars, of Yayahuala and others) constitutes an outstanding example of a pre-Columbian ceremonial center.

Teotihuacan had a hierarchical society. Large palaces surround the pyramids. The homes of the ruling class were decorated with colorful murals and intricate carvings. Thousands of smaller standardized apartment compounds spread around the city in a grid. The similarity of these buildings and their careful placement suggest that a powerful ruling class directed their construction. Most of these apartments held extended families, which produced the city's trade goods, like obsidian tools, in their homes.

Little is known about the language, politics, culture and religion of the Teotihuacan people. They had a glyph-based written language, but it may have been limited to dates and names.

The art and architecture of the city shows it was a polytheistic society, with the primary deity being the Great Goddess of Teotihuacan, which is depicted as a spider goddess. Other deities include Quetzalcoatl (a vegetation god whose meaning changed in subsequent civilizations), the rain god Tlaloc, and the god of spring Xipe Totec, among others.

One of the very few original murals in Teotihuacan remaining in its original place. The mural depicts a jaguar.

Chalchiuhtlicue ("jade" and cuēitl "skirt") "She of the Jade Skirt", is an Aztec deity of water, rivers, seas, streams, storms, and baptism. Chalchiuhtlicue is associated with fertility and she is the patroness of childbirth. Chalchiuhtlicue was highly revered in Aztec culture at the time of the Spanish conquest and she was an important deity figure in the Postclassic Aztec realm of central Mexico. Chalchiuhtlicue belongs to a larger group of Aztec rain gods and she is closely related to another Aztec water god, Chalchiuhtlatonal.

Mexico City

Museo Soumaya, a Modern Art museum in Mexico City

Museo Jumex - modern art museum with a great coffee shop

Mexico City - in the old city

The history of the Metropolitan Cathedral’s creation spans three centuries, from 1573-1813. So it makes sense that the architecture is an amalgamation of the three distinct styles which dominated during the lengthy process of its construction; Baroque, Neo-Classic and Neo-Renaissance. Prompted in 1544 by a need to replace the original church that formerly occupied the site following the conquest of Aztec hub Tenochtitlán, not even three centuries of development could make sure the foundations were sufficiently resilient. The cathedral – much like the rest of Mexico City – gradually sinks year after year into the shifting lake upon which it was built.

The impressive bell towers are of Xalapan design and house a total of twenty-five bells. The largest of these, Santa Maria de Guadalupe, weighs in at 13,000 kilos.

Numerous works of art, religious relics and crypts adorn every orifice, including in the sixteen chapels. Gold coats every surface and towering ceilings add to the grandeur of the Altars of Forgiveness and of the Kings. The Altar of Forgiveness was damaged in a 1967 fire along with the Americas’ biggest 18th century organs. This fire led to the discovery of previously hidden treasures, including over fifty paintings, historical documents concerning Hernán Cortes and the burial place of first governor of Veracruz, Miguel Barrigan.

The Crypt of the Archbishops is located below the floor of the cathedral beneath the Altar of the Kings. The entrance to the crypt from the cathedral is guarded by a large wooden door behind which descends a winding yellow staircase. Just past the inner entrance is a Mexica-style stone skull. It was incorporated as an offering into the base of a cenotaph to Juan de Zumárraga, the first archbishop of Mexico. Zumárraga was considered to be a benefactor of the Indians, protecting them against the abuses of their Spanish overlords.

The Templo Mayor (was the main temple of the Mexica people in their capital city of Tenochtitlan, which is now Mexico City. The temple was called the Huēyi Teōcalli in the Nahuatl language. It was dedicated simultaneously to Huitzilopochtli, god of war, and Tlaloc, god of rain and agriculture, each of which had a shrine at the top of the pyramid with separate staircases. The spire in the center of the adjacent image was devoted to Quetzalcoatl in his form as the wind god, Ehecatl. The Great Temple devoted to Huitzilopochtli and Tlaloc, measuring approximately 100 by 80 m (328 by 262 ft) at its base, dominated the Sacred Precinct. Construction of the first temple began sometime after 1325, and it was rebuilt six times. The temple was destroyed by the Spanish in 1521 to make way for the new cathedral.[

The Templo Mayor

In the main square of Mexico City

A purification ceremony by a shaman.

The shamans offer various healings.

The workshop of a shaman.

The incredible Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City

The beautiful fountain in the Museum of Anthropology

Recreation of Mayan Ruins in the Museum of Anthropology

The Olmec colossal heads are stone representations of human heads sculpted from large basalt boulders. They range in height from 1.17 to 3.4 metres (3.8 to 11.2 ft). The heads date from at least 900 BC and are a distinctive feature of the Olmec civilization of ancient Mesoamerica. All portray mature individuals with fleshy cheeks, flat noses, and slightly crossed eyes; their physical characteristics correspond to a type that is still common among the inhabitants of Tabasco and Veracruz. The backs of the monuments often are flat. The boulders were brought from the Sierra de Los Tuxtlas mountains of Veracruz. Given that the extremely large slabs of stone used in their production were transported over large distances (over 150 kilometres (93 mi)), requiring a great deal of human effort and resources, it is thought that the monuments represent portraits of powerful individual Olmec rulers. Each of the known examples has a distinctive headdress. The heads were variously arranged in lines or groups at major Olmec centres, but the method and logistics used to transport the stone to these sites remain unclear. They all display distinctive headgear and one theory is that these were worn as protective helmets, maybe worn for war or to take part in a ceremonial Mesoamerican ballgame.

The Olmecs were the first inhabitants of the Americas to construct monumental architecture and to settle in towns and cities. They were also the first people in the Americas to develop a sophisticated style of stone sculpture. In the first decade of the 21st century evidence emerged of Olmec writing, with the earliest examples of Olmec hieroglyphs dating to around 650 BC. Examples of script have been found on roller stamps and stone artefacts; the texts are short and have been partially deciphered based on their similarity to other Mesoamerican scripts. The evidence of complex society developing in the Olmec heartland has led to the Olmecs being regarded as the "Mother Culture" of Mesoamerica, although this concept remains controversial.

Pakal was buried in a colossal sarcophagus in the largest of Palenque's stepped pyramid structures, the building called Bʼolon Yej Teʼ Naah "House of the Nine Sharpened Spears"in Classic Maya and now known as the Temple of the Inscriptions. Though Palenque had been examined by archaeologists before, the secret to opening his tomb — closed off by a stone slab with stone plugs in the holes, which had until then escaped the attention of archaeologists—was discovered by Mexican archaeologist Alberto Ruz Lhuillier in 1948. It took four years to clear the rubble from the stairway leading down to Pakal's tomb, but it was finally uncovered in 1952. His skeletal remains were still lying in his coffin, wearing a jade mask and bead necklaces, surrounded by sculptures and stucco reliefs depicting the ruler's transition to divinity and figures from Maya mythology. Traces of pigment show that these were once colorfully painted, common of much Maya sculpture at the time.[

The iconography from the burial stone of Pacal. Pakal's tomb has been the subject of ancient astronaut hypotheses since its appearance in Erich von Däniken's 1968 best-seller Chariots of the Gods? Von Däniken reproduced a drawing of the sarcophagus lid, incorrectly labeling it as being from "Copán" and comparing Pacal's pose to that of Project Mercury astronauts in the 1960s. Von Däniken interprets drawings underneath him as rockets, and offers it as possible evidence of an extraterrestrial influence on the ancient Maya.

In the center of that frame is a man sitting, bending forward. He has a mask on his nose, he uses his two hands to manipulate some controls, and the heel of his left foot is on a kind of pedal with different adjustments. The rear portion is separated from him; he is sitting on a complicated chair, and outside of this whole frame, you see a little flame like an exhaust.

Burial mask of Pakal

The Aztec sun stone (Spanish: Piedra del Sol) is a late post-classic Mexica sculpture housed in the National Anthropology Museum in Mexico City, and is perhaps the most famous work of Mexica sculpture. It measures 358 centimetres (141 in) in diameter and 98 centimetres (39 in) thick, and weighs 24,590 kg (54,210 lb). Shortly after the Spanish conquest, the monolithic sculpture was buried in the Zócalo, the main square of Mexico City. It was rediscovered on 17 December 1790 during repairs on the Mexico City Cathedral. Following its rediscovery, the sun stone was mounted on an exterior wall of the cathedral, where it remained until 1885. Early scholars initially thought that the stone was carved in the 1470s, though modern research suggests that it was carved some time between 1502 and 1521

Mictlantecuhtli was considered 6 feet (1.8 m) tall and was depicted as a blood-spattered skeleton or a person wearing a toothy skull. Although his head was typically a skull, his eye sockets did contain eyeballs. His headdress was shown decorated with owl feathers and paper banners and he wore a necklace of human eyeballs,while his earspools were made from human bones.

He was not the only Aztec god to be depicted in this fashion, as numerous other deities had skulls for heads or else wore clothing or decorations that incorporated bones and skulls. In the Aztec world, skeletal imagery was a symbol of fertility, health and abundance, alluding to the close symbolic links between life and death. He was often depicted wearing sandals as a symbol of his high rank as Lord of Mictlan. His arms were frequently depicted raised in an aggressive gesture, showing that he was ready to tear apart the dead as they entered his presence. In the Aztec codices, Mictlantecuhtli is often depicted with his skeletal jaw open to receive the stars that descend into him during the daytime.

Mictlāntēcutli, meaning "Lord of Mictlan"), in Aztec mythology, is a god of the dead and the king of Mictlan (Chicunauhmictlan), the lowest and northernmost section of the underworld. He is one of the principal gods of the Aztecs and is the most prominent of several gods and goddesses of death and the underworld. The worship of Mictlantecuhtli sometimes involved ritual cannibalism, with human flesh being consumed in and around the temple. Other names given to Mictlantecuhtli include Ixpuztec (“Broken Face”), Nextepehua (“Scatterer of Ashes”), and Tzontemoc (“He Who Lowers His Head”).

Two life-size clay statues of Mictlantecuhtli were found marking the entrances to the House of Eagles to the north of the Great Temple of Tenochtitlan.

There were several different ways these sacrifices occurred. The most common ways were decapitation and heart removal. Dedication to a new building or new ruler required a human sacrifice. Many of these were depicted in Maya artwork and sometimes took place after the victim was tortured (beaten, scalped, burned, etc.). If the sacrifice happened through heart removal it took place in the courtyard of the temple or summit of the pyramid-temple. The person was painted blue and wore a headdress while being held down by four attendants representing the cardinal directions. The nacom, or official, used a sacrificial knife to cut into the victims chest and pull out the heart. He then would pass the heart to the priest, known as the chilan, where then the blood would be smeared onto the image of the god. Once this occurred, the body was thrown down the steps and skinned by assistant priests but the hands and feet were left alone. The chilan then wore the skin of the victim and performed a ritual dance of rebirth.

Officially known as the "Templo Expiatorio a Cristo Rey," the first structure of the old basilica was begun in 1695 and it was not finished until 1709. The major architect was Pedro de Arrieta. It is characterized by its doric interior and marble statues of Fray Juan de Zumárraga, archbishop at the time it was started, and Juan Diego, the peasant who saw the vision of the Virgin Mary. These are featured in the altarpiece that originally held the image of Our Lady of Guadalupe. (That altarpiece matches a similar one in the older chapel higher on the hill, which features the archangels Gabriel and Michael). The church was granted basilica status by Pope Pius X in 1904.

The icon of Juan Diego's cloak was housed in this church from 1709 to 1974. In 1921 a bomb planted in a flower vase near the altar by an anticlerical terrorist exploded, causing great damage to the interior of the building. (In memory of this incident, the New Basilica displays an iron crucifix called "the attempt on Christ".) The cloak survived undamaged.

As much of Mexico City is built upon the dried lakebed of Lake Texcoco, the land was unstable and the old basilica was sinking. A new, more spacious basilica was built.

The Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe (Spanish: Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe) is a Roman Catholic church, basilica, and National shrine of Mexico which houses the cloak containing the image of Our Lady of Guadalupe. The 1709 shrine was built in the North of Mexico City near the hill of Tepeyac, where the Virgin Mary is believed to have appeared to Saint Juan Diego Cuauhtlatoatzin. The basilica structure which now contains Juan Diego's cloak was completed in 1974.

This site is also known as La Villa de Guadalupe or, in a more popular sense, La Villa, and has several churches and related buildings.

One of the most important pilgrimage sites of Catholicism, the basilica and tilma (cloak) are visited by several million people every year, especially around 12 December, Our Lady of Guadalupe's Feast day.

Our Lady of Guadalupe

The Church of San Francisco Acatepec in Cholula

The Church of San Francisco Acatepec in Cholula

The interior of the Church of San Francisco Acatepec in Cholula

Mercado Central in Cholula

Mercado Central of Cholula - Medicinal Herbs

One of many churches in Cholula

The San Gabriel church and friary in Cholula, Puebla, was established in 1529 by the Order of Friar Minors, OFM, Franciscans, on top of the destroyed temple to Quetzalcoatl with evangelization as its initial purpose. The current complex was built in the 1540s, beginning with the Capilla Real in 1540.

Old tombstones by the St. Gabriel Church in Cholula.

Puebla, also known in Spanish as Puebla de Zaragoza, formally Heroica Puebla de Zaragoza and in colonial times as Puebla de los Ángeles, is the seat of Puebla Municipality, the capital and largest city of the state of Puebla, and the second largest in colonial Mexico and the richest Catholic diocese.

The historical and cultural value of Puebla's architecture is a major reason the city was chosen as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Various styles and techniques such as Baroque, Renaissance and Classic are represented here in over 5,000 buildings included in the catalogue. The historic centre is filled with churches, monasteries, mansions and the like, mostly done in gray cantera stone, red brick and decorated with multicolored tiles. Puebla is also considered to be the "cradle of Mexican Baroque" both in architecture and in the decorative arts, and one of the five most important colonial cities in Mexico.

Beautiful Puebla

Food market in Puebla

Puebla

Museo Apmaro in Puebla

Puebla

Amazing colours of Puebla

Delicious street food in Puebla by Dona Rita!

The Chapel of the Virgen del Rosario is the chapel attached to the Church of Santo Domingo in the city of Puebla, Puebla, Mexico. Work of the 17th century, summit of the New Spanish Baroque, was described in its time as the Eighth Wonder of the World. by Friar Diego de Gorozpe, in a print of 1690, regarded like this for a long time in the New Spain, as well as La Casa de Oro (The Golden House) and Domus Aurea. It is one of the most prominent examples of the New Spanish Baroque and one of the greatest artistic-religious achievements in Mexico. It is a chapel full of symbolisms, where each element represents something related to the Catholicism and Dominican Order.

The cult of the Our Lady of the Rosary was promoted by the Dominican Order, who dedicated in each of their convents a chapel to their devotion. In Mexico it was no exception when the first religious of the order arrived in 1526, but it was not until the year of 1531 when they began the construction of their first important church in Puebla, which is also dedicated to the Archangel Michael however the Chapel of the Rosario was conceived until 1650 and completed and consecrated on 16 April 1690.

It was the first in Mexico dedicated to the Our Lady of the Rosary. Its construction served a double purpose: to worship the Virgin and teach the faithful the prayer of the Holy Rosary.

The Dome is full of important symbolism:

(a) In the dome, the Divine Grace (Gratia Divina) carries in its hands the palm leaf that symbolizes martyrdom, and the laurel branch of victory. Grace, without which there is no valid virtue, represents the origin of everything divine on earth; it is accompanied with the gifts of the Holy Spirit:

(b) Understanding (Spiritus Intellectus)

(c) Fortitude (Spiritus Fortitudinis)

(d) Piety (Spiritus Pietatis)

(e) Fear of God (Spiritus Timoris)

(f) Knowledge (Spiritus Scientiae)

(g) Counsel (Spiritus Consilii) and

(h) Wisdom (Spirit Sapientiae), qualities represented by female figures. Through these symbols one learns that having faith, hope and charity, being in grace and receiving the essential gifts, one can reach the supreme wisdom, represented by the dove of the Holy Spirit, which in the dome is shown wrapped between clouds and rays.

The common image of Our Lady of Guadalupe in the streets of Puebla.

Folk dance in the streets of Puebla.

Puebla folk dancer

A friendly musician in the streets of Puebla.

A ball store - it will probably disappear with the owner…

Rural Mexico is full of amazing sights!

Venezuela - Orinoco River Delta

Orinoco Delta part of this trip was a filler between the Roraima and Angel Falls. I did not have any expectations prior to visiting the Delta. I visited the Amazon River around Manaus and enjoyed the experience. I thought that the visit to the Orinoco River would be something similar. I could not have been more wrong! The Orinoco Delta was as good as the Roraima trek or Angel Falls but for different reasons, First and foremost it was the indigenous Warao People that made the biggest impression on me. They were so nice, kind and welcoming. They also seem to have maintained their way of life in this crazy and chaotic world, which is astonishing! Their surroundings and lifestyle stand in sharp contrast to the rest of Venezuela and the rest of the world for that matter. It was truly a different world to experience.

Second, the Delta’s nature is untamed and is very different from the Amazon Basin. The Amazon region around Manaus is full of boats and marine traffic. The Delta is an empty, huge conglomerate of islands, channels and passages (30,000 sq km large!). There is no or very very little commercial boat traffic. It is a large swamp with millions of birds and plants and spectacular sunsets. There are other animals but more difficult to see. Tropical rains roll in and out and the nights are full of bird, insect and amphibian sounds. It is truly a magical place. Since our lodge, Orinoco Queen, (one of the only 3 operational lodges in the entire region) was situated in the middle of the thick forest, the sounds of the jungle were all around us. The lodges are small and cater to very few people who visit here. Our place had space for 8 and was being expanded to accommodate 14.

Last, the exploration of the Delta is an endless adventure. The amount passages and waterways is amazing. We were only 1 hr by boat from the Atlantic Ocean and the river was subject to the tides flooding the mangrove forests and low lying jungle. I would like to spend more time in the Delta learning about the animals, the jungle and the way of life of the Warao people. I hope to return one day! Again, a big THANK YOU to the staff at the Orinoco Queen and Ben from Osprey Expeditions for making this happen!

The GPS location of the Orinoco Queen Lodge - our basecamp for exploration the Orinoco River Delta.

Ciudad Bolivar - a very pretty town of 300k inhabitants located on the banks of the Orinoco. Mr. Bolivar spend some time here in 1817 and did some war planning that led to the independence of Venezuela. There are many things Bolivar here and actually the story of his life is quite interesting. He was one of the old time romantic dreamers that devoted his life to the idea and paid dearly for it. He died disillusioned in poverty and isolation at at 47. He sure left a mark on the world though.

Ciudad Bolivar, the historical centre is very nice to walk around. Since Venezuela is not really a tourist hub, there are no coffee shops or souvenir stalls. The people we met were extremely happy to see us and very welcoming. We got royal treatment and a grand tour!

Ciudad Bolivar - a very charming place.

Beautiful architecture of the old town.

The Orinoco

El Comandante with a potato (or yuca) in Ciudad Bolivar.

Somewhere in rural Bolivar State.

Empanadas and Arepas

Little coffee shop north of Puerto Ordaz on the way to the Orinoco Delta.

The road to the Delta. It was HOT!

Rural Venezuela in the Orinoco River Delta

Little village in the Delta were we were picked up by the motor boat.

Dressed in their Sunday best! A very nice couple on their way from church.

A small shrine by the roadside in the Delta region. Notice the small statue of the doctor. Blessed Jose Gregorio Hernandez is not yet a saint but was venerated by Pope John Paull II, now Saint John Paul II, in 1986. Jose was Venezuelan and worked as a physician, often known to treat patients even though they could not afford to pay for his services. He lived in the late 19th Century and was a brilliant medical student. He was selected to travel to France where he expanded on his extensive medical knowledge. He was devoted to teaching, medicine and religious studies. Twice, he sought to enter the Priesthood but his poor health prevented him form being officially ordained. He was a tireless caregiver and  would always go out of his way to help his patients. Sadly, he was hit by a car and died while on his way to deliver medicine to a patient in need. Many have invoked his name in prayer and healing miracles have been attributed to his name. He is well-known and revered throughout Latin America and Spain. 

A small grocery store

Fish market in the Delta. The fish come from the Atlantic Ocean and are transported by boat to this market.

The small fish market in the Delta

Welcome to the Orinoco River Delta!

Making our way to the Orinoco Queen Lodge. A well hidden gem in one of the channels of the Orinoco Delta.

The Warao People make crafts from the Moriche Palm and balsa wood. The palm provides material not only for the excellent hammocks but for their huts, tools, household implements and wine. When tourists come to the lodge, it does not take long for the locals to make an appearance with their crafts. The sale of crafts provides them with a source of income. Considering a very limited amount of visitors, it is all on a very small scale.

The Warao are also called the Canoe People are Venezuela’s second largest indigenous group. There are around 25,000 of them. They live in dwellings by river banks in open-sided wooden huts and live mostly off fishing. “Wa” means canoe and also means people. They use large trees to build the canoes with axes and fire. They learn how to use it from very early age and are excellent canoeists. The wooden boat is very tippy, I tried it and it was not easy to operate.

The Warao are renowned for their basketry and woodcarvings. Their chinchorros (hammocks) are made from the fibre of the moriche palm and are renowned for quality and durability.

We spent the time in the Delta exploring it by boat. Our guide, Clemente, was very skilled in spotting animals which were well camouflaged in the trees and shrubs.

a 4 year old in a canoe

teenage alligator

Walking through the swampy forrest

These palm leafs are used for roofs of the indigenous huts

Our guide Clemente from the Orinoco Queen Lodge

Venezuela - Mount Roraima Trek 2810m

Mount Roraima, also known as Roraima Tepui or simply Roraima, is a magnificent tabletop mountain located in South America, specifically at the tripoint between Venezuela, Brazil, and Guyana. It is part of the larger Pakaraima Mountain range and is one of the most famous natural landmarks in the region. It stands at an elevation of approximately 2,810 meters (9,219 feet) and covers an area of around 31 square kilometers (12 square miles). The mountain features sheer vertical cliffs on all sides, giving it a striking and unique appearance. The summit of Mount Roraima is an otherworldly landscape characterized by unique flora and fauna. It is home to numerous endemic species, including carnivorous plants, orchids, and several rare bird species. The tabletop summit creates a distinct ecosystem that has been isolated for centuries. The surrounding region is known as the Gran Sabana, or the Great Savanna. The Gran Sabana is also home to indigenous communities, primarily the Pemon people, who have inhabited the region for centuries.

The trip to the top of Roraima is an easy multi day hike. It was on my radar for a very long time but given the situation in Venezuela the timing had to be right. Thanks to Ben from Osprey Expeditions, the trip was a great success.

What makes Roraima interesting is the remote location of the mountain and its geographical characteristics. The weather is highly changeable and the scenery is spectacular in sunshine or rain. The top of the mountain is like another world. It feels like sleeping on the roof of a really high building with million stars overhead. The Tepuis are very different from any other mountains in the world and the entire experience is definitely worth time and effort. I was looking for dinosaurs on the top but I only found tarantulas and meat eating plants!

We were lucky to have a few days of good weather so that we could enjoy the beautiful views along the way and from the top. Given the highly changeable weather, it is a little of a gamble to come all this way and end up hiking in thick mist. Just something to keep in mind…

Mount Roraima, along with other 220 tepuis in the region, is a result of unique geological processes that occurred over millions of years.

Tepui Formation: Tepuis are ancient table-top mountains characterized by steep vertical walls and flat, plateau-like summits. They are part of the larger Guiana Shield, a geological formation that covers parts of Venezuela, Brazil, Guyana, and Suriname. The Guiana Shield is composed of Precambrian rocks, which are some of the oldest rocks on Earth.

Erosion and Uplift: The formation of Mount Roraima began around two billion years ago. Erosion and weathering processes gradually wore away the surrounding rocks, leaving behind isolated sandstone plateaus. Over time, tectonic uplift events caused these plateaus to rise, resulting in the formation of the tepuis.

The road from Puerto Ordaz to Roraima

It took us the entire day to drive south to Roraima from Puerto Ordaz.

Driving from Puerto Ordaz to Roraima we passed through many mining settlements. Each settlement was like the “Wild West” of Venezuela’s gold and diamond mining region.

Entering the highlands of southern Venezuela

Affter many hours of driving south, we arrived at the famous bridge over the Cuyuni River was designed by Gustave Eiffel. It was impounded by Venezuela as a payment for mooring fees of a stranded ship off the coast of the Atlantic. The bridge was destined for another location and ended up in Venezuela by accident. The jungle is slowly reclaiming it.

The small and sleepy village of Yuruani, staging point for the Roraima trek

The Pemon checklist for Roraima. We needed to fill out some registers and pay a small fee to the community.

The Gran Sabana and the Tepuis from the road to Paraitepui

The starting point of the trek - the Pemon village of Paraitepui. The Tepui (“flat mountain” in the Pemon langauage) on the left is Kukenan Tepui. Mount Roraima is on the right. It seems that clouds crown the summits of the tepuis permanently.

Kukenan Tepui 2650m and Roraima 2810m. Roraima is 35 km away. The climb up the Kukenan Tepui is very different from Roraima. It is more technical as there are no easy access points from any side.

First day’s walk is 14km. It feels longer due to the intense sun and nasty bugs. The puri puri bugs are the worst. The Deet spray does not seem to deter them and they attack all exposed skin. Thankfully, there are some water sources along the way and we could drink straight from the streams without filtering or purifying the water first.

Kukenan Tepui and the pass between it and Roraima. Beyond the pass are hundreds of miles of tropical mountain forest and jungle, producing steam and moisture that “flow” into the Gran Sabana.

The beautiful Kukenan Tepui. There are 8 Tepuis in a line that can be seen from this viewpoint. The range is called Eastern Tepuis and contains the highest table mountains in the Canaima National Park, Guyana and Brazil. Roraima is also the second highest peak in Brazil after Pico Neblina (3000m) deep in the Amazon on the border with Colombia.

From left to right: Ilu i Tramen Tepui (2700m), the pointy Karaurin Tepui (2500m), Yuruani Tepui (2400m), Kukenan Tepui (2650m), Roraima (2810m) and the one on the right is in Brasil: Mei Assipi Tepui (2500m).

Kukenan Tepui in the evening mist. The second highest waterfall in the world (610m) forms on this mountain during the rainy season.

The views of the Kukenan Tepui from our first camp. The Kukenan Tepui was first climbed in 1963. It was climbed from the pass between Kukenan and Roraima. The top of the Tepui is similar to Roraima and contains similar flora and fauna.

This is a fantastic camp with a cold beer stall and great views.

Kukenan Tepui means “brown waters” in the Pemon language.

The top of Kukenan Tepui is full of strange rock formations creating an elaborate labyrinth of passages. It is easy to get lost and disoriented especially after the mist descends onto the mountain.

The views of Kukenan Tepui from camp 1.

A wonderful cold waterfall on the Kukenan River provides an escape from the heat.

Mount Roraima is in the background.

The misty Mount Roraima

The grasses of the Gran Sabana.

Local Pemon people are working as porters and guides. They use interesting baskets for transporting the goods for the treks. It is impossible to hike up Roraima without their assistance or permission.

Beautiful views from Camp 2. The climate is influenced by the trade winds from the Atlantic carrying moisture and the equatorial winds that are more dry. The summits of the tepuis experience extreme temperatures, very hot during the day with intense solar radiation and almost freezing at night.

Roraima’s vertical wall

The hikers are dwarfed by the sheer walls of Roraima.

The Ramp used to ascend the mountain.

The closeup of the Ramp and the Pass of Tears (Paso de las lagrimas).

Our small team. 5 very adventurous Danes and me. From left to right: Janick, Marianne, Jan, me, Fleming and Michel.

Camp 2 and the de facto basecamp for Roraima.

Beautiful sunset over the Gran Sabana.

Ascending Roraima with the imposing wall ahead. The initial ascend to gain the ramp is quite steep. Once at the wall, one needs to ask the mountain for permission for safe passage - a Pemon custom.

Once on the Ramp, the angle eases considerably.

Walking on the Ramp along the vertical walls of Roraima.

The view of the Kukenan Tepui from the Pass of Tears. I think it was named for numerous waterfalls which form after the rains.

The final section of the Ramp leading to the entrance to the summit plateau.

The Ramp, on the way down it became a river bed fed by numerous waterfalls from the top of Roraima.

The narrow section of the Ramp. It was full of waterfalls on the way down.

Finally at the top of the Ramp although not at the top of the mountain. We were very lucky with the weather!

The cliffs of Roraima from the top of the Ramp.

The towering cliffs of Roraima. See the people below for scale!

Exiting the Ramp onto the summit plateau.

Strange rock formations at the entrance to the summit plateau.

The plants on the summit of Roraima cling to life in crevices to escape being washed away by heavy rains. Almost all of the plants are unique to the tepuis and over half are known only on Roraima.

This plant is only known from the Highlands of Guyana.

The top of Roraima, it is another world!

Now we are on top of the Roraima plateau. The weather changes very fast and rain/drizzle/fog are common.

Strange world of Roraima. Whatever water does not flow away, it pools in the crevices on the summit.

The top of Roraima. It looks flat but the terrain is full of fissures and rocky crevices. It is actually a lot of effort to get through this maze and it is very easy to get lost, especially in the fog which is very common.

Our camp for the 3 nights we spent on the summit of Roraima.

Beautiful sunrise on top of Roraima

The cave kitchen

Our camp

Our camping spot. The rock overhang provides a good shelter from continuous rain.

Strange rock formations. No fossils were ever found on the summit indicating the connection to the ancient continent of Gondwana.

The carnivorous Sundew. The leaves have sticky tentacles that trap small insects. This is one of the plants known only from the Tepuis.

Carnivorous terrestrial Pitcher Plant only known from the Tepuis. Red veined pitcher leaves are buckets that collect rain water and trap insects which eventually drown.

The freezing cold Jacuzzies on top of Roraima.

The beautiful vista from the Window lookout. There is nothing but thick jungle all the way to Guyana.

Timelapse video of the pass between Roraima and Kukenan Tepuis

The Window lookout

Waterfalls on the Kukenan Tepui.

The pass between Kukenan Tepui and Roraima.

Kukenan Tepui from Roraima.

Looking down from the edge of Roraima’s plateau.

Looking down the cliff from the Window lookout on Roraima.

The Window lookout

The Maverick Point 2810 - the true summit of Roraima.

The edge of Roraima with the sea of clouds below. The tepuis generate their own local weather patterns: thermal flows of air resulting from intense radiation heating of sunlit cliff faces suck up moist air from forests below to condense on the summit. Therefore, the Tepuis are so often capped by a crown of clouds.

Top of Roraima

The barren top of Roraima is like another planet.

On a clear day, the night sky is spectacular. There is no light pollution for hundreds of miles.

The stars were amazing.

Strange rock formations on top of Roraima.

After 24 hours of continuous rain everything was saturated but we could also look forward to the spectacular waterfalls on the way down the mountain. The clouds were rolling in from the forests below and dumping misty rain all day and all night long. It was also quite windy. The temperature dropped to 2C and we were all quite cold in the thin sleeping bags. It was quite a contrast from 30C on the way up! The misty and rainy weather prevented us from walking to the triple border point (an 8 hour hike there and back from our camp).

The flying turtle

Misty Roraima

The exit from the summit plateau of the Roraima Tepui to the Ramp.

Descending into the mist with the sound of waterfalls that we soon had to cross.

We experienced both faces of Roraima: the sunny and the misty. They were both beautiful and very different.

Large waterfalls formed after the heavy rains.

We all got thoroughly soaked walking under waterfalls. It was warm though so no issues and everything dried pretty fast.

The Ramp in the mist.

Mount Roraima after heavy rains

The misty Roraima

Crossing the Kekunan River. The river rose by one foot after the rains.

The Gran Sabana

At the end of the trek, the park’s staff searches everyone’s bags for rocks, crystals and plants. You are not allowed to take anything out.

Our group at the end of the trek.

The village of Yuruani, just a road stop on the way from Brazil (60km away) to Puerto Ordaz in Venezuela (580kms away). From the border of Brazil, it is another 3 hours to Bella Vista and another 10 hours to Manaus. Roraima is really in the middle of nowhere.

Kama Falls, Gran Sabana

Yuruani Falls, Gran Sabana

Venezuela - Angel Falls

Angel Falls waterfall is located in the Guiana Highlands in Bolívar state, southeastern Venezuela, on the Churún River, a tributary of the Caroní, 160 miles (260 km) southeast of Ciudad Bolívar. The highest waterfall in the world, the cataract drops 3,212 feet (979 metres) and is 500 feet (150 metres) wide at the base. It leaps from a flat-topped plateau, Auyán-Tepuí (“Devils Mountain”), barely making contact with the sheer face. The falls are located in Canaima National Park, and, because of the dense jungle surrounding the falls, they are best seen from the air.

The falls, first sighted by outsiders in the 1930s, were named for James Angel, an American adventurer who crash-landed his plane on a nearby mesa in 1937. In late 2009 Venezuelan Pres. Hugo Chávez declared that the falls should be referred to as Kerepakupai Merú, an Indigenous name.

The trip to Venezuela is not complete without a visit to Angel Falls. It is the journey to reach the falls that is probably more interesting than the destination itself (although the falls is spectacular in every way). The journey involves a boat ride up the Caroni and then Churun Rivers. The ride is against the current so the narrow boat has to fight the rapids and the strong river. The falls is located deep in the beautiful forest among the Tepuis inside the Canaima National Park. The Pemon people operate all the trips up the river from the village of Canaima.

Thanks to Ben from Osprey Expeditions and our guide Carlos for the very enjoyable experience in one of the most amazing places on our beautiful planet.

The very large Auyan Tepui. It is 700 Square Kms in size and its walls have a vertical relief of almost 1000m!

The falls, which cascade from the top of Auyantepui in the remote Gran Sabana region of Venezuela, were not known to the outside world until Jimmie Angel flew over them on November 16, 1933 while searching for a valuable ore bed.

On October 9, 1937, he returned to the falls with the intention of landing. On board his Flamingo monoplane were his second wife Marie, Gustavo Heny, and Miguel Delgado, Heny's gardener. He attempted a landing, but despite a successful touchdown, his aircraft El Rio Caroní nose-dived when it hit soft ground at the end of its landing run. The wheels sank in the mud, making take-off impossible.

The passengers were unharmed but had to trek across difficult terrain and with low food supplies for 11 days to make their way off the tepui and down to the nearest settlement at Kamarata. When word of their exploits got out, international interest in the Gran Sabana region increased dramatically, leading to in-depth scientific exploration in the following years.

His aircraft remained atop Auyantepui until 1970, when it was disassembled and brought down by Venezuelan military helicopters. Today, an El Rio Caroní can be seen outside the airport terminal at Ciudad Bolívar. The airplane was re-assembled in the city of Maracay's aviation museum

The small air strip in El Manteco from where we traveled to the village of Canaima.

Canaima National Park

The views from our flight to Canaima.

Canaima airstrip

Canaima Village

Beautiful Canaima Lagoon

Canaima Village

Canaima Village

Caroni River near Canaima

The large Auyan Tepui can be seen in the distance. We had to portage sections of the river to avoid the rapids and to lighten the boat to get across.

Caroni River

The rapids on the Caroni River

Caroni River

The Auyan Tepui

The Auyan Tepui and the Caroni River

The smaller but more turbulent Churun River

Working the way up the Churun River

Final section of the river before Angel Falls

This is the first sighting of Angel Falls as you clear the last bend of the Churun river. Spectacular!

The spectacular Angel Falls from the distance

The mesmerizing Angel Falls

Hiking up the the falls foreshortens it. It is difficult to appreciate the height of the drop. It is best seen from the air.

Standing at the viewpoint for the Angel Falls.

Angel Falls right before sunrise

Sunrise on Angel Falls

The Auyan Tepui from the air. The flight from Canaima is 45 min and the scenery is very spectacular!

The top of Auyan Tepui

Auyan Tepui

Looking down the wall of the Auyan Tepui

Angel Falls

The Angel Falls is well hidden and not visible until the airplane is in front of it.

A 1000m drop!

The steep walls of the Auyan Tepui.

The river of Angel Falls

Churun River. The location of the jungle camp for hiking to the base of Angel Falls. The location of the camp is in the white squares among the trees by the river.

Churun River and the camp.

Angel Falls

Angel Falls

Churun River

Churun River

Churun River

Churun River

The Caroni and Churun Rivers

Caroni River

The tepuis near the village of Canaima