November 20, 2019

The Grand Mustang Circuit - Part 4: Terila Pass to Chame via Naar and Kangla Pass

November 20, 2019

The Grand Mustang Circuit is a combination of the Annapurna Circuit (or what is left of it), the classic Mustang trek, the Terila Trek and the trek trough the Naar/Phu region. To finish things off in “style”, we returned to the starting point via Kangla Pass. The total distance of this EPIC trek was 380km which we walked over 24 days. We climbed 12km in total elevation (probably descended the same) and crossed 3 passes over 5,000m and a quite a few passes over 4,000m. Half of the trek is through sparsely populated regions requiring camping and self sufficiency. It is a spectacular route through some of the most culturally interesting areas of the Buddhist Nepal with a thriving culture. Again, many thanks to the Mountain Sun Valley and Rajendra for putting this together.

It is not technically difficult but it is long. It also has a lot of ups and downs, especially in the Mustang region, where one has to constantly climb into and out of river gorges that cut through the landscape. The trek offers spectacular scenery that is very different from what I have seen in other parts of Nepal. It is a truly unique experience both visually and culturally.

This final part of the trek took us down from Terila Pass to the village fo Naar. The village of Naar has spectacular location and is culturally fascinating. I was lucky to attend a puja ceremony in the local gompa and a wedding between a man from Naar and a lady from Phu. These experiences allowed me to meet some friendly locals and learn about the local culture and customs. I really appreciated the hospitality and friendliness of the residents of Naar. It was a wonderful experience! We returned to our start point through the spectacular Kangla Pass with phenomenal views of the entire Annapurna range. We had great weather and visibility. Overall this trip was very different from the other treks i did in Nepal that were more Himalaya focused. This trek exceeded my highest expectations.

See here for a good report of Kang La Pass

The dry Domodar Himal, descending from Terila Pass

The Valley of Labtse Khola. We followed this river all the way to Naar.

After walking for 25km, we set up the first camp after the pass.

Walking from Terila Pass. It is 40km to Naar along the Labtse Khola. .

The trek is very spectacular among the rugged mountains that feel remote and isolated.

Camp 2 on the way between Terila and Naar. Pisang Peak 6,091, a popular trekking peak, is on the horizon.

The village of Naar is across the bridge and 700m up the ridge.

We had to climb the ridge int he background to get to Naar.

The shape of the stupa represents the Buddha, crowned and sitting in meditation posture on a lion throne. His crown is the top of the spire; his head is the square at the spire's base; his body is the vase shape; his legs are the four steps of the l… — The shape of the stupa represents the Buddha, crowned and sitting in meditation posture on a lion throne. His crown is the top of the spire; his head is the square at the spire's base; his body is the vase shape; his legs are the four steps of the lower terrace; and the base is his throne.
Although not described in any Tibetan text on stupa symbolism, the stupa may represent the five purified elements:
The square base represents earth
The hemispherical dome/vase represents water
The conical spire represents fire
The upper lotus parasol and the crescent moon represent air
The sun and the dissolving point represent wisdom

The impressive chorten group before Naar.

I was lucky to attend the puja ceremony in this small chapel in Naar. The puja was held for prosperity and safety of Naar and is performed once a year.

According to the Tibetan Buddhism , ringing the holy bells and gongs have always been the matter of showing affection towards the “Buddha “ and all the Bodhisattvas (a person who is able to reach nirvana but delays doing so out of compassion in orde… — According to the Tibetan Buddhism , ringing the holy bells and gongs have always been the matter of showing affection towards the “Buddha “ and all the Bodhisattvas (a person who is able to reach nirvana but delays doing so out of compassion in order to save suffering beings). This is a ritual of accumulating positive karma. The bell is a representation of “wisdom”.

In ancient Sanskrit, the conch is known as Shankha meaning “a shell holding the sacred water.” Vedic myth says the conch appeared from the water after the great churning of the ocean. According to mainstream Buddhism and Hinduism, the conch shell i… — In ancient Sanskrit, the conch is known as Shankha meaning “a shell holding the sacred water.” Vedic myth says the conch appeared from the water after the great churning of the ocean. According to mainstream Buddhism and Hinduism, the conch shell is also associated with truthful speech and strength. Whilst the above meaning offered by mainstream religion is not wrong, it only reveals part of the truth. The spiral pattern at the tip of the conch shell represents the beginning of existence. The conch is made by nature, not man, & sounds in all directions, as do the teachings of the Buddha. Consequently, the conch is seen as a vehicle fearlessly proclaiming the truth of dharma in all directions. It is also seen as an emblem of power & authority & is thought to banish evil. A white conch shell was presented to Sakyamuni by the great sky god Indra.

Ancient trumpets made from human bones. Kangling — a trumpet made out of a human thigh-bone for use in Tibetan Buddhism rituals, such as Chod. The otherworldly sound of the instrument celebrates generosity and connection to other people and creatur… — Ancient trumpets made from human bones. Kangling — a trumpet made out of a human thigh-bone for use in Tibetan Buddhism rituals, such as Chod. The otherworldly sound of the instrument celebrates generosity and connection to other people and creatures in a world where life and death are intertwined. The femur of a criminal or a person who died a violent death is preferred. Alternatively, the femur of a respected teacher may be used. The kangling may also be made out of wood.
The kangling should only be used in chöd rituals performed outdoors with the chöd damaru and bell. In Tantric chöd practice, the practitioner, motivated by compassion, plays the kangling as a gesture of fearlessness, to summon hungry spirits and demons so that she or he may satisfy their hunger and thereby relieve their sufferings. It is also played as a way of cutting off of the ego.

I was also lucky to be included in the wedding in Naar. Being one of the very few tourists in the village I was invited by the groom’s family. It was a great way to experience the local culture and see the Naarians in the social setting,

The wedding created a lot of excitement among the neighbours. Notice the large turquoise stone worn by the ladies. All the ladies of Naar wear the large stone with the two corals. Tibetan Turquoise is most sought after by Nepalese and Tibetan peo… — The wedding created a lot of excitement among the neighbours. Notice the large turquoise stone worn by the ladies. All the ladies of Naar wear the large stone with the two corals. Tibetan Turquoise is most sought after by Nepalese and Tibetan people for its spiritual powers as well as its beauty. ... "Gyu" (pronounced "yu") is the name for Turquoise to the Tibetans, it is indigenous and they feel knowledge from the mineral comes from within the Turquoise and not through outside influences. To the ancient Tibetans- the final destination of much of the ancient Mediterranean's coral- the gem's auspicious red color made it highly esteemed as a charm against disease and danger. Besides its ability to bring luck and keep away calamities and the 'evil eye,' red coral was also considered a valuable harbinger of illness or poisoning, believed to pale in color if the wearer was ill or had even been exposed to illness or darken as the wearer began to recover.

During the festivities people were just coming and going all the time. I think the entire village was there at some point or another. It was interesting that I could stay, hang out, then leave and come back later.

The pile of wedding gifts for the young couple.

The fathers of the groom and the bride were placed at the head table.

The mother of the bride gives blessing and the symbolic khata scarf to the young couple. The khata symbolizes purity and compassion. Its main colour is white, symbolizing the pure heart of the giver, though it is also quite common to find yellow-go… — The mother of the bride gives blessing and the symbolic khata scarf to the young couple. The khata symbolizes purity and compassion. Its main colour is white, symbolizing the pure heart of the giver, though it is also quite common to find yellow-gold, blue and red khata as well in Tibet. They are often placed around the necks of statues and hung on the top of Thangka paintings. It is an ancient custom to bring a Khata when visiting a temple, shrine, guru, or teacher. This is a way of showing gratitude for the kindness of your teacher and the gems of their teachings.

Chang (the local fermented beer) and arak (hooch) were flowing freely from morning to night,

Presenting Khata scarf to the newlyweds. Tibetan people see khata as a very important gift, so offering Khata has its own ordination. People usually fold the khata into a double layer and hold it with two hands to offer. They usually bend 90 degree… — Presenting Khata scarf to the newlyweds. Tibetan people see khata as a very important gift, so offering Khata has its own ordination. People usually fold the khata into a double layer and hold it with two hands to offer. They usually bend 90 degrees and put their hands above their head when they offer to respected and honored people, such as the Buddha, a parent, teachers and elders. You can put the khata in their hands if giving it to a parent or elder. You can put it in front of the throne if it’s Buddha. If elders present Khata to young people, elders can put the Khata around the neck or on the hand of the young people.

Sitting at the men’s table and enjoying the arak.

The newlyweds. The guests placed the Khata around the bride and groom and also place money as a gift in front of them. An amount would be placed for the bride, the groom and their baby!

The fantastic village of Naar. It was very interesting and surprisingly not touristy, For example, there were no souvenirs being offered for sale anywhere. In fact, there were no shops in the village.

The mani stone. he Mani stone is the one of the most popular forms of prayer and ritual in Tibetan culture. It’s originally from Bon’s stone worship. They are intentionally placed along the roadsides and rivers or placed together to form a big stu… — The mani stone. he Mani stone is the one of the most popular forms of prayer and ritual in Tibetan culture. It’s originally from Bon’s stone worship. They are intentionally placed along the roadsides and rivers or placed together to form a big stupa, temple and mountain shapes. People also place the Mani stones along walls, as an offering to spirits of a place. The first word, Om, symbolizes the practitioner’s impure body, speech, and mind; it also symbolizes the pure exalted body, speech, and mind of a Buddha. Mani, meaning jewel, symbolizes the factors of method: altruistic intention to practice compassion and love.
Padme, meaning lotus, symbolizes wisdom. Purity must be achieved by an indivisible unity of method and wisdom, symbolized by the final syllable hum, which indicates indivisibility.
Thus the six syllables, om mani padme hum, mean that in dependence on the practice of a path which is an indivisible union of method and wisdom, you can transform your impure body, speech, and mind into the pure exalted body, speech, and mind of a Buddha.

The large group of stupas at the entrance to Naar.

Pisang Peak 6,091m and the stupas at the entrance to Naar.

The Psang Peak (left), the valley leading to Kangla Pass (centre) and Naar (right).

Trekking to the Kangla Pass basecamp from Naar. It is a short walk from Naar.

Our last view of Naar with the Kangru Himal looming above the valley.

Approaching the Kangla basecamp. A very clean khaki maintained by the village of Naar. It is located at an altitude of 4,620m making the trip to the pass shorter and more enjoyable.

The ridge of Yungregang Danda. The peaks of the ridge are only 500 - 600m above us.

The Kangla Himal seen from the Kangla Pass basecamp.

The Kangru Himal 6,981 on the left. Behind, Manaslu and Peak 29, on the right is Pisang Peak.

You can see Nemjung on the left. The Kangru Himal 6,981 on the left-centre. Behind, Manaslu and Peak 29, on the right is Pisang Peak.

The panoramic view from the Kangla Pass. The Annapurna Range dominates the view.

Looking west. On the left is the Annapurna Himal, on the right are the Chulu Peaks.

Lamjung Himal on the left and Annapurna II 7,937m.

On the left is Annapurna IV 7,525m, centre is Annapurna III 7,555m, next is Gangapurna 7,454m and on the right is Annapurna I 8,091m.

On the left is Annapurna III 7,555m, next is Gangapurna 7,454m and on the right is Annapurna I 8,091m. You can even see the very top of Machhapuchhre on the extreme left.

Our last dinner of the trek. Everyone was happy for the successful finish to our adventure.

Kangla Pass seen from he road between Chame and Manag.

Derek Boniecki

September 25, 2019

Kamchatka Trip Report

Derek Boniecki

September 25, 2019

July 31, 2019 Vladivostok

So it begins. I arrived in Vladivostok and moved through stark customs and passport control. I am officially in Russia!

The morning was gloomy with thick fog blanketing the city; somewhat fitting. First, I found the hotel and put my bags in the storage, as the official check-in time is 2pm. The city has a cool vibe to it. It is Russia so it looks European but the location is in far-east Asia. Vladivostok is the terminus of the trans Siberian railway so the old railway station is one of the main points of interest. At the railway station, there are many informative displays about the trans Siberian railway and the marker for the final mile 9,288km from Moscow placed by the old steam locomotive. Unfortunately most of the interesting displays are in Russian. From the railway station I walked to the main square and made my way to the WWII submarine that has been converted into a museum. It was $1.50 to get in and once through the gate, you can wander inside at will. The submarine was cramped inside with 4 torpedo bays adorned with Soviet era stars and really tight living quarters. Again, there were numerous interesting displays unfortunately only in Russian. Above the submarine museum was a massive memorial to solders that died during WWII. There were hundreds if not a few thousand names. All were young men.

During my wanderings I stumbled upon a gun shop selling machine guns, pistols and knifes. I bought a knife in case of a bear attack in Kamchatka. I did not have a bear spray and I was concerned about the possibility of a bear encounter especially during a night. I also relied on our guide’s assertion that he had a secret way of dealing with bears that did not involve knifes or sprays.

After a delicious meal of pelmeni and a beer in a local cafe, I made my way back to the marine terminal and met up with Dreena and Johnny who were signed up for a city walking tour. I joined the tour and it was actually very interesting. The young guide took us to spots that I would not have been able to find on my own such as the old China town that used to be full of opium dens. We also visited the museum of local history. The museum was very well done with very interesting displays of artifacts pre dating 1917, among other things. There were pictures of the Czechoslovakian Battalion participating in the Russian Civil War and instrumental in the lead-up to the killing of the Czar.

After parting ways with the tour and Dreena and Johnny, I found an old funicular and made my way to the observation hill from where I could see the 180-degree panorama of the city and the port. It was very interesting to see. The city was clean, had a nice mix of modern and old and overall it was very interesting. I enjoyed it very much.

I managed to get back to the marine terminal for the sail away and waived to Dreena until the ship turned around. From there, I went back to the hotel for a delicious dinner of Russian food and off to bed for a 3.45 am wakeup call for the morning flight to Pertopawlowsk- Kamchatsky.

August 1, 2019 Petropawlowsk-Kamchatsky

I got up at 3.45 am and took a taxi to the airport 1-hour drive from the city. The driver was very grumpy (maybe because it was such an early call). The airport is modern and comparable to any other modern airport in Europe or North America. The airline operating this route is called AURORA and it is a subsidiary of Aeroflot. All in all it was a very smooth flight with good service, cramped seat notwithstanding. During the 3.5-hour flight I sat next to a Polish guy who was on his way to Kamchatka to do some fishing for 6 days. He paid $3,500 euro for a 6-day fishing trip! It is also a very long way to go from Poland for 6 days.

On the approach to land in Petropawlosk-Kamchatsky (PK) we had fantastic views of the Avachynski Volcano and the green fields along the coast of Kamchatka. The top of the volcano was sticking above the clouds and it was all very exciting for me. I was very excited to be finally in Kamchatka. I wanted to visit Kamchatka since I was a kid and it was always an impossible dream. Based on my first impression, Kamchatka seemed wild and vast – my kind of place.

The airport in Petropawlowsk-Kamchatsky is both civilian and military. I could see many military planes as we were taxing to the arrival gate. PK is famous for the large nuclear submarine port of the Pacific fleet of the Russian Navy. I presume that this is one of the reasons for the large presence of many military jets at the airport.

The arrival area of the PK airport is situated inside a blue greenhouse-like structure, which apparently is a great improvement from a few years before, when the passengers had to collect their bags in the open (rain, snow or sunshine).

After collecting my backpack I met Evgeny our guide. Evgeny is from Moscow but he spent the previous three weeks in Kamchatka guiding other tourists. Since we needed to wait for David, we ended up in a nearby café for some good borsch and coffee. David arrived an hour or so after me. He arrived from Moscow after a 10-hour flight. He had to deal with 11-hour time difference. Thankfully, I was already adjusted.

We drove from the airport to the city in one hour and it already looked different from Vladivostok: poorer, less developed reminiscent of a frontier town. There were some remains of old Siberian wooden houses intermixed with the brutalist Soviet architecture. The city is beautifully located among green hills on the shore of the picturesque Avacha Bay. It has a small port with a lot of fishing trawlers some of them in an advanced state of decay. David and I were tired but suffering from FOMO we went for a long walk around the “old” city by the bay. It felt surreal to be in Kamchatka as it seemed so remote. It did not register yet that I was finally in Kamchatka. We walked up to a small hill with nice view of the bay.

Evgeny told us that we had a 600km drive the following day to get to the start of our hike! I could not believe how far we had to drive. I was happy though that we would see so much of Kamchatka. The road that we would drive on is the only road in Kamchatka and we would cover 85% of its total length. The plan was to drive to the trailhead and camp before we would start walking the following day. Now all we needed was good weather!

It took some time to process where we were and what we were about to do. The place had a remote feel to it already and we were not even in the woods yet. In a local shaman/souvenir shop we saw a mounted brown bear with huge claws. This was the only bear that I want to see on this trip, as I would like to stay as far from them as possible. I hoped that Kamchatka bears did not fancy lava fields and volcanoes but prefer rivers full of fish.

August 2, 2019 Camp 1, 5 km

We got up at 8am to a cloudy and gloomy day. We had great breakfast with familiar foods. I really enjoy the Russian food as it reminds me of Poland. I feel certain familiarity and kinship with the people and the general surroundings. We had to wait until 9.30am for the car to take us on the 600km ride. Finally our driver Sergey showed up in a 4x4 Mitsubishi. First we went to a local bank as Evgeny had to do some business and then off for the “fun” day in the car. The drive was through a valley separating two main mountain ranges that run along Kamchatka coasts: the Central Range and the East Range. The weather cleared and we could admire great vistas of wild mountains and rivers. The scenery was reminiscent of Alaska and even Alberta in some places.

After we crossed the Kamchatka River, the last 35 km of the journey was on a progressively deteriorating forest track. The car was leaning 35 degrees or more. The feeling of remoteness was amplified and caused a slight anxiety in me. The place was very wild and remote! We stopped briefly and I opened the car door to be immediately surrounded by a cloud of buzzing mosquitoes. Sergey continued with full confidence entertaining Evgeny with numerous stories about the region, volcanoes, history etc. He was very talkative and had a wealth of knowledge about the region. He worked as a hydrologist in the Tolbachik area during the 70s and 80s. Once the Soviet system collapsed, he lost his job and started a car rental company with driving people like us as a side gig. He knew all the forest roads from his days in the field. He said that all the tracks were developed by the forest industry that was dominant in this region during the Soviet days. The loggers would transport tree trunks to the coast along the Kamchatka River. The logging in the 70 and 80 basically destroyed the old growth forest of this part of Kamchatka. I understood more than 60% of what he said and got the general gist of his stories. Since neither Evgeny nor David talked much, I was happy for Sergey’s company.

As we progressed uphill through the thick taiga towards our final destination, the massive bulk of the Tolbachik Volcano came into view. I got quite excited about the prospect of hiking on it and forgot about the remoteness and possible problems.

We were lucky with the weather and arrived at the camp in blue skies and sunshine about 4.30pm. We set up camp and were immediately surrounded by clouds of mosquitos. They did not bite too much but became annoying more than anything. The bulky Tolbachik Volcano was very close and we could see its conical summit covered in snow and ice. We took a 5km walk to the hills above the camp to get a better view of the surrounding landscape. We could see the other large volcanoes in the distance but the Tolbachik stole the show. It looked beautiful in the setting sun with low light illuminating the glaciers.

August 3, 2019 Camp 2, 9.50 km

I just got back from watching a giant Grizzly bear (or as they call them here, brown bear) circle our camp. First, the bear appeared above the camp checking us out. As he disappeared behind the bushes, we climbed a little hill for a better view and watched him eating berries a few hundred meters away. He was a giant bear with a square snout – nothing I would care to see much closer. Earlier in the day, along our hike to the camp, we saw the shaking dugs of another bear as he was running away from us. Thankfully he was running in a right direction – away from us.

But back the beginning of the day. We got up early at 6am as the rowdy group of Russians was making a racket. They arrived the night before and also made a lot of noise with their giant Kamaz roaring its engine right above our tent! David was not amused and had he spoke Russian he would have set the Russian ladies straight! I would love to see that! An Englishman vs. the team of field-hardened Russian women with bear hands! Guess the outcome!

We had breakfast under a canopy in the rain, packed up and hit the trail. The pack was heavy (30kg) and we had to climb uphill right from the start. We were walking in a fog with limited visibility. We did not have to walk far and after running into the bear we came to a ridge, which we descended to camp 2.

When we arrived at the camp 2 at 10.30 am, a group of 20 Russians was already there drying from the rain. They arrived from the opposite direction and it was their second last day of the trip. As soon as we arrived and set up our tents it started to rain heavily and continued for a few hours until 4 pm. The open shelter was very crowded because of the rain as there was nowhere else to hide.

Some of the members of the Russian group were foraging mushrooms and dwarf pinecones. They made a large pot of mushroom soup. The cones are used for medicinal purposes by boiling them and mixing them with alcohol.

My tent was holding up surprisingly well in the heavy rain. I hoped for good weather as we were hoping to see the views. This was why we came here after all. We were anticipating the following day to be difficult, as we had to walk for 16-20km with heavy packs.

August 3, 2019 Camp 3, 18 km low cloud, wind, cold – no rain

Today was the first day of real walking – 18km with a big pack. Every little thing weighs and it all adds up to the heavy load. We split the food for 10 days 3 ways: cans of pashtet, macaroni, rice, kasha, etc. There is nothing freeze-dried and no one here seems to use this type of foods to save weight. Our typical evening meal was rice, macaroni or kasha with canned fish, meat or peas.

We walked out of the camp with the Volcano Tolbachik visible in the distance. The view made for a fine backdrop. We could even see the steaming Bezimienny far above the low clouds for a while. Soon, we started walking on old lava fields with wonderful green moss covering black lava rocks. The black sand, green moss and the white of the volcano made for fantastic contrast. We walked among frozen towers of old lava that looked like a Salvador Dali painting. The trail climbed and dropped a lot. We stopped at a small slot canyon and made a quick detour to check it out. Unfortunately we could not descend into the canyon as it was filled with the rain runoff.

We crossed a large plateau dotted with remains of an old lava filed. The wind picked up and it got rather cold so sitting and resting became unpleasant. We could see the rain falling in the distance but it never got close to us. After crossing the never-ending plateau, we followed a small river to a pass that took us to the basecamp for the volcano Bezimienny.

The basecamp is located by an old 1960s hut built by the Russian Academy of Science. This hut was constructed to study the volcano Bezimienny after its explosive eruption in the late 1950s. It has been abandoned and is now used as a shelter by trekking groups. It is rather dilapidated but provides a welcome shelter from the frequent wind and rain. The weather today was much better than the day before – it did not rain, it was only very windy and cold. When we arrived at the hut, we had the place to ourselves so we decided to sleep inside. Soon after though, a large group of Russians arrived with some shady guys that gave us an evil eye for sleeping inside the shelter.

We met a gregarious fellow from the UK who was a member of the large Russian group. He was teaching English in Yakuck and came to Kamchatka on his vacation. He described a trip that he took back around Yakuck to the famous basalt towers of the river Lena: 5 hours in a bumpy bus, 10 minutes for the photo of the towers, and then 5 hours in the bumpy bus back to Yakuck. We all shared a laugh.

For the Russians, Kamchatka is like Alaska for the Americans. The Russians come here from all over Russia. It is surprising how few of them can speak English. They are mostly young and well to do to be able to come here yet they do not know English well or at all.

The evening was clear with a beautiful sunset boding well for tomorrow’s planned ascent of the Bezimienny Volcano.

August 4, 2019 Camp 4, 18km, ascent of 1200m

We got up at 5am, had quick breakfast of instant porridge and departed for the volcano. There was no wind and the sky was clear! We had perfect conditions. We followed an easy trail to a rim of the caldera at 2,800m. We had great views of the surrounding area along the way with great visibility for miles. The view got better the higher we climbed and it was exactly what I imagined Kamchatka to be like. Many volcanoes dotted the surrounding landscape. From where we were, a cluster of 3 large volcanoes dominated the view right across from us. To the right, the bulk of Tolbachik and Ostry Tolbachik towered above the never-ending plane we crossed the day before. We could see the entire distance covered so far and the distance we would walk for the following two days.

We spent 3 hours on the top admiring the views, flying the drone and taking it all in. The Bezimienny Volcano is active and the cloud of volcanic ash rose from the crater above us. The crater looked unstable, full of steaming vents and we did not want to chance an accident by walking on the crater’s floor. The cloud of ash partly obscured the view of the massive Volcano Kamen that towered for another 1500m above Bezimienny. The crater of Bezimenny had steep red walls surrounding it with a small dent in its defenses where we were standing. It was a scene from the time of creation.

After some hesitation, curiosity won and Evgeny descended to the bottom of the crater but returned quickly not wanting to chance an accident. Evgeny’s drone gave us a better view of the steaming crater and the surrounding volcanoes of Kamenny and Kluchewskaya that we could not see from where we were. It was absolutely fantastic! After 2 hours or so, the low clouds started to roll in and the curtain was dropping fast. We decided to descend and as we went down, the visibility decreased to 50m or so. We could not see any distinguishing features so we got slightly lost but soon regained the trail. When we descended below the clouds, we could see the hut and the tents of the Russian group. I was surprised that none of the Russians made it to the top in such perfect weather.

After a quick lunch, we left for the next camp as the Russian group was crowding us out.

We were tired but walked for 8 km to the next camp located on Marsove Pole. The Marsove Pole camp is very beautiful with wonderful vistas of all the volcanoes in the park. We set up our camp and cooked good dinner under the shelter. We had the entire place to ourselves until a small group of 3 friendly Russians arrived. The evening was spectacular with wonderful views of the volcanoes in the setting sun. I walked to a small spur behind the camp for great view of the Tolbachik Volcano and the extensive old lava fields.

We were amazed with the cleanliness of the trails, the shelters and the park in general. There was no garbage, or human waste. All the shelters were clean and tidy with no sign of vandalism of any kind. Despite the presence of large groups, everyone was very respectful of the others and the environment. We did not see one piece of garbage anywhere along the 100+ of the distance we covered.

August 6, 2019 Camp 5, 16 km

We got up at 5 am again to get to the Tolbachik pass early. The weather was clear again! Evgeny was very keen to fly the drone and set the pace at maximum. We were very lucky for this weather window. There was no wind and we had good visibility allowing us to appreciate and admire the magnificent surroundings of this unique place. From the top of the pass we had great views of the volcanoes Kamienny, Kluchewskaya and steaming Bezinienny in the raising sun. The 4700m high Kamienny was especially striking – steep and imposing. Right behind it was Kluchewskaya at 4900m it is the highest active volcano in the park and free of snow because of the heat (like the Bezimienny crater. When Evgeny descended into it, the rocks were hot). The views from the Tolbachik Pass were fantastic! We could see a panorama of the entire park with 14 major volcanoes dotting the landscape. We stayed there for an hour or so taking it all in.

We then walked towards a distant volcano with a plan to go no further than 10km for the day. We walked on hard snow for some distance and then on the green tundra in the middle of a huge valley. Along the way, we could admire the trio of high volcanoes in the rear view mirror. The valley we walked across was covered by thousands of beautiful and colorful flowers and it was very green but there was absolutely no water anywhere! We needed the water for cooking and could not camp without it. We could not find any water for another 13 km and had to walk much further than we planned. Finally we arrived at the base of the distant volcano that we saw from the pass and spotted a clear stream originating from the snow patch above.

When we arrived, the temperature was quite hot, the hottest day we experienced so far. We were also tired from the forced march that we did not anticipate and were not psyched for. The heat did not last though as the wind picked up and low clouds obscured all views. All the wonderful scenery that we saw disappeared. It is a pity that the weather here is so fickle…

August 7, 2019 Camp 6, 9.5 km Talud Campsite

Today we slept in as it was quiet and we did not have anyone sharing the camp with us. We had a good night sleep and got up at 8am. We had breakfast in the field in a wonderful setting with good clean water. The clouds came down even further overnight and we were now engulfed in a fog. After breakfast we hiked for two hours mainly down a long river channel filled with black sand and loose rocks. It drizzled a little but before we knew it, we were in the Talud campsite. We passed some people along the way but it does not seem customary to chitchat with the passers by.

At the Talud camp there is another dilapidated Russian Scientists’ hut from 40 years ago. The place has a creepy feel to it and I would not stay there after dark. I did not even want to enter it during the day. The hut also dates back to the Bezimienny eruption of 1957. The eruption was as large as the Krakatoa eruption and it was this event that started the scientific interest in this area.

The Talud camp is also besieged by thousands of mosquitoes. I could not see them all but I could hear their buzzing like a swarm of WWII airplanes waiting to attack.

Thankfully they do not bite too much. We had a relaxing afternoon here – time passed by quickly despite miserable weather. We made a nice fire and enjoyed each other’s company.

August 8, 2019 Tolbachik Basecamp, 12.5 km

We arrived in the Tolbachik campsite late afternoon in pissing rain. It rained all night and finally stopped in the morning. The MSR tent was holding amazingly well in constant rain and wind. We decided not to climb the Tolbachik Volcano as it was shrouded in a thick cloud. Some Russians made the effort only to return wet and deflated from the failed attempt.

Instead of climbing the volcano, we decided to explore the extensive eruption area that this place is famous for. The most recent eruption was in 2009 and 2012. It was one of the largest fissure eruptions in the world producing astronomical amount of lava.

We left early in the morning and as soon as we reached the first lava field it started to rain again. It was very windy and it rained for the entire time that we were in the eruption area. Without proper rain gear, it would have been very cold due to the strong wind.

The lava field is massive and very interesting. The lava has many shapes and colors and it looks like glass art or roots of a giant tree all twisted and roped. The colors are amazing: different shades of silver, grey, red, yellow and maroon. As it cooled, the lava formed into fantastic shapes and looks like frozen glass or glue. It is light in weight but extremely strong. We walked on large lava tubes and channels and I was afraid to break through and fall into the chasm. The lava is also very sharp and any fall would cut through skin like a razor. The lava that is close to an active area is yellowish or bright red in color. One can feel the heat radiating from the earth below. Some of the active areas on this field are over 100C hot and can burn skin if touched.

We went further afield to climb two volcanic cones from which the lava erupted during the 2009-2012 eruption. The cones were covered in light red pumice. The pumice is very light and good to walk on as it provides good traction. The range of shades of pumice was amazing: from bright red to fluorescent yellow. The colors were very vivid in the rain. At the top of the first crater there were many active vents and sulfur gases were coming out of the fissures in the rocks. This kaleidoscopic landscape was situated at the base of the massive Tolbachik Volcano covered in snow and ice making for striking contrast. It was truly amazing and fascinating to see. It was all very wild and untamed – raw nature that is still forming in front of us. All of this in the rain and wind – totally wild!

We then climbed to the top of the second massive crater. The crater was a huge gapping hole with steam of gas coming from its bottom. The colors of the rocks were amazing and very vibrant as well. The smell of carbon and sulfur was in the air despite the wind. I have never seen anything like this on such a massive scale in such a wild and remote setting. From the top of the crater we could see the distant volcano where we camped two days prior. The black field of lava extended as far as we could see.

On the way back we walked into a huge lava cave that seemed to extend for some distance. We did not walk very far as we did not bring a flashlight with us. We also looked for a hot lava cave that was somewhere in the area but we could not find it. We did find a lot of thermal areas some of them so hot that Evgeny burned his hand when he touched the rock.

After a few hours of exploring we were wet and cold and decided to return to the camp. During lunch a wicked wind suddenly picked up by making a loud punch to the roof of the shelter. I had to go back inside the tent to anchor it down, as I was afraid that it would get blown away by the wind. The poles of the tent started to fold with each gust all the way to the floor and I had to hold them up to prevent them from breaking. As the wind increased in intensity, I decided to move the tent behind the hut. As soon as I moved my tent, a group of Russians set up one of their large dining tents in the very spot that I vacated oblivious to the gale force wind. Needless to say, their tent did not survive the night.

August 10, 2019 20 km

During the night the gale force wind increased even more and eventually destroyed the entire campsite. The Russians were running like crazy chasing their tents all around the desolate campsite in the dark. All night long, the wind was twisting and pushing my MSR tent onto me. And I was sheltered behind the hut! The tents out in the open did not stand a chance including Evgeny’s. I could not sleep until 3am due to the noise from the wind although I was exhausted. I finally fell asleep after 3 am and I was up at 7 am.

After meager breakfast (we were running out of food), Evgeny and I returned to the active zone for more exploring. I was fascinated by the entire area and could spend hours just walking around. I was far more interested in exploring this area than in climbing the Tolbachik volcano that frankly looked like any other snowy mountain to me. During our exploration, the wind was still very strong but it did not deter us. We climbed the two large craters again and Evgeny flew his drone for wonderful areal photography. I was surprised that he could fly the drone in such strong wind. From the air, the area was even more magical than I could appreciate from the ground. After much exploring, we returned to the camp around noon.

After meager lunch consisting of a candy bar we walked for another 6km to the rendezvous point with our ride. The way to that spot passed though very desolate landscape of black sand and low calderas. I was apprehensive about our ride being there as we were very far away from the road and civilization. We finally arrived at the designated spot. Thankfully there was a shelter to hide from the wind and rain. Regardless, we were wet, tired and hungry. I started to get quite cold. To stay warm, I climbed to the top of a small volcano behind the shelter. It was quick and very enjoyable as the crater was also active and had many wonderfully colored rocks. The views from the top were also wonderful despite the low clouds and wind. I really like this landscape and find it very photogenic and intriguing. Along the way to the top, I could feel the heat of the earth through my boots and I could smell sulfur despite the wind.

Our plan was to meet up with Sergey, the driver at 3pm. He did not show up at 3pm and as the hours passed, we were getting concerned. We did not have any food left, there was no water nearby, we were tired and it was really miserable (cold and wet). We also had no way of communicating with the outside world. Our only other was to hitch a ride with one of the larger groups and take a bus back to Petropawlosk-Kamchatsky from the village of Kozierowsk 100km away.

Finally Sergey appeared at 7pm apologetic that the approach track was blocked by fallen trees, which he had to chainsaw to get through.

We packed up, got in the car and drove a short distance to the area called Dead Forrest. The area is not really dead as there are new trees all around and beautiful bushes of lupine everywhere. The contrast of green trees, black sand and purple flowers were quite striking.

As soon as we arrived, Sergey sprang into action: made a fire to keep the mosquitos away, cut wood for more fire, unpacked loads of baked salmon, malosolne, cold beer (!), and excellent samogon (the Russian hooch). We started to eat the delicious salmon and drink the beer and the hooch. Despite my good intentions, the hooch sent me back to the tent very quickly. I passed out and did not wake up until the next morning.

Well, this part of the trip was over. Mosquitoes, rain, hunger (never enough food as we could only carry so much), wonderful views, volcanic wonders, it was all part of the wild adventure in the vast and unforgiving land of Kamchatka. We walked well over 100km covering a large part of the Kluchewskaya National Park. The effort was totally worth it and it exceeded my wildest expectations. It is one of a few remaining wild and unique places in the world that exists despite the encroaching civilization. There are not many places like this left.

August 11, 2019 Drive from Tolbachik to Paratunka

Today we drove for 11 hours! After the hooch-fueled evening everyone was asleep until 8.30am so we did not start until 10 am. The morning was foggy and with the back sand of the volcanic desert, it looked bleak. We made a fire, brewed good cowboy coffee and ate the leftover salmon and rice from the previous evening.

On the way we stopped to help a stranded jeep in very muddy and almost impassable road. Then we turned into a barely-visible forest track known only to Sergey (we could not see it and thought that he was turning into the bushes). We drove through this overgrown track for an hour or so bulldozing our way across the new-grown taiga. We finally emerged onto a large river, crossed its main channel and then hit the main road 30kms beyond. We stopped at the Kamchatka River for our last view of the volcanic giants peaking from above the clouds. It was very beautiful and a great way to say goodbye to this wonderful place. Despite the fickle weather and hard work, I was sad to leave this special place.

We then had a few hours of driving to the village of Milkovo where we had borsch at the gas station and actually not too bad pastry. After, hours of driving to Petropawlosk. In PK we stopped at a local supermarket to stock up on food for our next leg of the trek. We also bought some beer from a dispensary in the store. The lady operating the dispensary pours beer to a large plastic bottle for $1 per litter! Cheap and very good. We also stopped to photograph the beautiful volcanoes surrounding PK.

We checked into a nice hotel in Paratunka, a hot spot for thermal baths. We were very tired but had enough energy for a nice soak in the hot pool. The facilities were clean and modern. The water was bathtub comfortable. We retired back to the room at 11.30pm, had quick dinner and were off to bed at 12.30! It was a long day.

August 12, 2019 Goriely Volcano 20km

We got up at 7am and had great breakfast at the hotel. Good Russian food again. After breakfast, Sergey picked us up and drove us to the base of the Goriely Volcano along a bumpy and rocky road. The weather was great and decided to go up the top of the volcano to take advantage of it. It was such a contrast from the fog, cold and rain of the Tolbachik area two days prior.

The hike is quite easy and we climbed 800m in 1 hour. At the top, a splendid panorama of two huge craters opened up. One crater has a lake in it and the other is still active. The entire double crater looks like a giant hole, jagged and colorful. I walked along the narrow rim of the crater to the true summit slightly above 2,000m. Soon after arriving, David joined me and we continued our exploration by walking along the entire rim of the volcano. We were both amazed with the incredible scenery and the beauty of the area. We walked through some active thermal areas with smoke steaming from between the cracks. The crater had a “Wow” factor similar to the Bryce Canyon in the USA. We were lucky with the weather again when it counted most! We walked a long way and were both tired and hungry.

Once we got back to the camp it was still sunny but it became very windy making it unpleasant to sit outside. Thanks to the wind though we had no mosquitoes!

This area is very beautiful and very different from the Kluchewskaya Park. It is also much busier due to its proximity to PK (only 2 hours away). Because of the beautiful weather we hiked with many locals of various shapes and ages. Everyone was enjoying the scenery and the warm windless summit.

August 13, 2019 Mutnowski Volcano 23.5km

In the morning we left the Goriely campsite and walked 11 km, mainly on the 4x4 road to the Mutnowski camp. It took us 3.5 hours to walk the distance and we were quite tired. The walk on the road seemed tedious to me. We were passed by many day-trippers on their way to the Mutnovsky Volcano from PK. We walked in nice sunshine with little wind. We set up the camp, had lunch and took off to explore the Mutnovsky Volcano. We wanted to take advantage of the good weather.

To my surprise the Mutnowski geological area is located inside the crater (I was not expecting this). What an entrance! Through the gates of hell – yellow steep walls of volcanic rocks bring you inside a giant caldera. We entered the realm of smoke and sulfur. As we entered the crater, we started to see smoke rising from various vents. Inside the crater there are numerous fumaroles spewing gases. Some gases emanate from the earth with violent force like a jet engine. Some are so toxic that one cannot breathe. The crater’s colors are of various shades of yellow and brown blending into each other like a painting. There are numerous sulfuric vents and holes, liquid mud, boiling water, geysers etc. It is a fabulous and amazing place, interesting and dynamic. I walked around in wonder. It was hard for me to believe that it was real. The Mutnovsky crater is quite huge and there is also a glacier inside above the active zone. The contrast of ice and fire is quite amazing. Blue ice seracs lean above hot vents spewing sulfuric gasses.

We hiked still higher to the rim of another crater that is hidden from view until the moment that you stand at its edge. This hidden crater is very active spewing a huge tower of smoke continuously. The crater’s walls are vertical and on its bottom there is a red lake. There were quite a few Russian day-trippers and we all stood there amazed at the display of raw power of the earth. We stayed inside the Mutnovsky crater for 4 hours and of course it started to rain as we started walking back to the camp. The weather window was closing fast. I was amazed that we could wander around such dynamic and violent active area without any restrictions or safety measures (in Yellowstone there are walkways, barriers and rangers to watch the people. Here nothing at all.).

It was too cold, wet and windy to cook outside so Evgeny cooked inside the tent. After the rain, the moisture was evaporating from the warm ground around us, which looked quite amazing. The mountains in the distance looked very dramatic in the rain and swirling clouds. The weather has turned again.

August 14, 2019 12km

We got up to a cloudy sky and cold. By now the weather felt familiar so no one was complaining. Thankfully we camped close to the small pass that we had to cross that day so we did not have to retrace any distance. We did not have many kilometers to cover to our meeting point with Sergey. We slogged up the small pass from where we had a view of the Mutnowski Volcano and in the distance the geothermal power plant that was our final destination. I was beginning to feel quite tired from the cumulative days of carrying the heavy pack. We stopped along the way to check out geothermal installations that were all over the valley that we were crossing. We ended our walk on a disused road with multicolored hills towering above it. It was all very beautiful. The scale of the landscape here is very big and mountains stretch into the distance.

When we arrived at the power plant, the weather became warm and sunny. Since we arrived a day early and had no obvious means of contacting Sergey, we asked for a ride but everyone refused. Finally I realized that I could use my cellphone as the power plant had a cell tower. We called Sergey and he could pick us up at 5pm. Since we had some time to kill, David and I went for a walk to a nearby thermal area with numerous geysers and fumaroles. The area was small but quite impressive. We could walk among the fumaroles and geysers to our heart’s content. Unlike the Yellowstone or Iceland, the thermal areas here are wild and we had unrestricted access.

We were amused by the Russian families that came for a day hike. They all had very similar routine. Before the hike, they would have a large amount of food with vodka. Then, dressed in camo gear (entire families wearing camo, including kids) and with a large knife attached to the side, the patriarch would lead everyone into the wild. After the hike, the family congregated at the table, the food was again consumed along with more vodka. I noticed that the alcohol was consumed in very limited quantities more for social bonding than drinking.

Finally Sergey showed up and took us back to Paratunka. We stayed at the same hotel with the wonderful thermal pool. We had great BBQ dinner at the restaurant adjacent to the hotel. The food was excellent and the beer was cold. In addition to successful conclusion of our adventure, it was also David’s 25th birthday so we had two good reasons to celebrate. After the dinner we soaked in the warm water for 2 hours. The pool was open until midnight so we enjoyed every last minute of it! We were all happy not to be in the tent. The trip was coming to the end.

Derek Boniecki

August 17, 2019

Камча́тка, Russia - The Mutnowski and Gorely Volcanoes

Derek Boniecki

August 17, 2019

Please see my comments on the Tolbachik Volcano Circuit page. After our incredible adventure in the Kluchewskaya Cluster National Park, we drove for 11 hours back to Petropawlowsk or rather to nearby Paratunka, a spot full of hot springs!

Our next objective was the Mutonvsky Volcanic Plateau and its two active volcanoes: Mutnowsky and Gorely. We needed good weather and we were lucky again. We had sunny weather during crucial days and then the rain returned. We hiked out in a cold wind and rain.

This area is quite different from the Tolbachik Circuit. The volcanoes are not as steep and majestic but they have incredible craters with lakes and active vents. The Mutnovsky crater is almost unbelievable. It felt like walking into another world through a narrow gap in the rocky crater. I was truly awe struck and could not believe that the place was real.

We felt that it was an incredible experience to see the magnitude of geothermal formations in such a small place. Furthermore, one can wander around without any restrictions and get close to some very spectacular places.

Evgeny’s drone provided us with a completely different perspective and allowed us to see the grandeur from high above without having to rent a helicopter. We left tired but happy to have been able to see such an unbelievable spot.

The Koryaksky Volcano near Petropawlowsk Kamchatsky (PK). It is 3,456m high. It belongs to the Avachinskaya group of Volcanoes. It had a small eruption of ash in 2009 forcing landing aircraft to change course. the upper part has a 35 degree slope an… — The Koryaksky Volcano near Petropawlowsk Kamchatsky (PK). It is 3,456m high. It belongs to the Avachinskaya group of Volcanoes. It had a small eruption of ash in 2009 forcing landing aircraft to change course. the upper part has a 35 degree slope and some exposed rocky sections.

The Avachinsky Volcano 2,751m high is the closest volcano to PK and apparently quite easy to ascend.

The closeup of the upper section of the Koryaksky Volcano.

The Vilyuchinsky Volcano 2,173m. It is 1.5 hr away from PK by car on a so-so road. The sign at its base indicated that it required 6 hours for an ascent.

The viewpoint for the Vilyuchinsky Volcano.

The road from PK to The Plateau of the Mutnovsky Volcano. The area of the Mutnovsky Volcano is located about 70km south from PK and is on the edge of the Mutnovsky National Park. The volcanic plateau is 600 to 900m high where cones of active volcano… — The road from PK to The Plateau of the Mutnovsky Volcano. The area of the Mutnovsky Volcano is located about 70km south from PK and is on the edge of the Mutnovsky National Park. The volcanic plateau is 600 to 900m high where cones of active volcanoes tower above the alpine tundra, free of snow only for three months of the year. There are three volcanoes in the area: the active Muntovsky and Gorely and the dormant Vilyuchinsky. The area receives over 15m of snow in winter! The road is not muddy but very rocky and dusty,

We set up our camp at the base of the Gorely Volcano. The hike to the top of the crater takes an hour (850m elevation gain) but the hike around the entire crater takes a few hours.

The dormant Vilyuchinsky Volcano. At the base of the Gorely Volcano you can see the parking for the day-trippers from PK.

The upper section of the Gorely Volcano. The ascent has an easy gradient but it is long in distance.

Photo by Evgeny Androssov. Going up the Gorely Volcano. The high Mutnovsky Plateau is beyond. You can even see the Pacific Ocean in the distance.

Almost at the top! The Gorely Volcano is located in a large caldera 13 x 12 km in size. The Volcano has 11 craters! The craters are strung one after another. The variety of craters and ease of access make this volcano one of the most spectacular in … — Almost at the top! The Gorely Volcano is located in a large caldera 13 x 12 km in size. The Volcano has 11 craters! The craters are strung one after another. The variety of craters and ease of access make this volcano one of the most spectacular in Kamchatka.

The main crater with a beautiful lake inside. The Gorely Volcano had 9 explosive eruptions in the past. Next to this lake crater is the eruptive crater with an active gas vent. The top of the mountain is the prominent fin in the distance.

The active crater of the Gorely Volcano with the active gas vent on the lower right side. The gas vent has a temperature of 900C. The activity began in 2010 and is still ongoing. The drone photo by Evgeny Androssov.

One of the main craters of the Gorely Volcano seen from the drone. Photo by Evgeny Androssov.

The edge of the crater and the beautiful volcanic lake. Photo by Evgeny Androssov.

The path around the crater is very spectacular. It is like a walkway in the sky!

Fantastic formations of the main crater.

The entire main crater of the volcano is quite large and requires a few hours to traverse. It is a great hike though providing views of various craters, the surrounding plateau, and distant volcanoes.

The bulky Mutnovsky Volcano towering over the plateau.

The Mutnovsky Volcano seen from the top of the Gorely Volcano. To access the active crater of the Mutnovsky, we walked through the canyon break in the crater wall. The existence of a glacier inside an active volcano was quite incredible.

The top of the Gorely Volcano is 2000m high.

The elevation of the highest point on the Gorely Volcano.

One of the active areas and the steaming ground.

The active main crater of the Gorely Volcano.

The view from the top of Gorely to the Mutnowsky Volcanic Plateau.

Walking on the rim of the Gorely crater with the Opala Volcano in the distance (2,475m).

This side of the mountain was quite hot. Even on this warm day, the steam was visible (and smell-able).

An unnamed crater of the Gorely Volcano and Mutnowski Volcano behind.

On the edge of the Gorely crater with Mutnovsky in the distance.

The active crater of Gorely, We walked by numerous active vents and the smell of sulfur was in the air.

The closeup of one of the vents of the Gorely Volcano.

One can take a day trip to the Gorely crater from PK for around $700 US per person. The large Mi8 helicopter takes about 24 passengers. It has max cruising speed of 225km/h and a flight range of 900km. It is the most popular twin engine helicopter i… — One can take a day trip to the Gorely crater from PK for around $700 US per person. The large Mi8 helicopter takes about 24 passengers. It has max cruising speed of 225km/h and a flight range of 900km. It is the most popular twin engine helicopter in the world. We observed their approach and landing. On the next photo, see the helicopter parked in front of the crater for scale!

The Mi8 helicopter parked at the rim of the active crater on Gorely Volcano.

The Mutnovsky Volcano 2,323m is 15km away.

Walking through the remains of the 15m snow drifts!

The bears and us shared the path. Thankfully not at the same time!

Approaching the Mutnovsky Volcano, still 4km away. We camped here and hiked to the crater without our heavy packs.

The Mutnovsky Volcano has a complex structure. It is really formed from four separate stratovolcanoes with a common top and a double crater of 2 x 1.5km in size. The Vulkannaya River broke through the wall of the crater creating a gorge and provided… — The Mutnovsky Volcano has a complex structure. It is really formed from four separate stratovolcanoes with a common top and a double crater of 2 x 1.5km in size. The Vulkannaya River broke through the wall of the crater creating a gorge and provided an access point to the inner crater.

The gap in the crater walls formed by the Vulkannaya River. The trail goes along the crater walls. It feels like walking into a castle!

The gorge of the Vulcannaya River. There is a wonderful waterfall further down.

Day-trippers from PK. It is a full day excursion with a long and shaky drive on both ends of the trip.

The local operators use these monster trucks to negotiate the rough road from PK to Mutnovsky. There seems to be a monster truck cult in PK as some of them were incredibly large.

The general map of the Mutnovsky crater, Aside from this warning, there are no restrictions or barriers preventing a thorough exploration the crater. I am sure that in time, as the number of visitors grow, there will be walkways and barriers (like t… — The general map of the Mutnovsky crater, Aside from this warning, there are no restrictions or barriers preventing a thorough exploration the crater. I am sure that in time, as the number of visitors grow, there will be walkways and barriers (like the Yellowstone NP). It is good to be here before it happens!

As we got closer, it felt unreal to be here! It was hard to imagine that a place like this exists and that we can explore it freely.

Massive walls of the crater. It felt like we were inside a castle from the Lord of the Rings.

A big glacier lies inside the crater stopping at two vast fumarole fields: Donnoye and Verkhneye. An active funnel over these fields emits powerful gas and steam jets, which rise up to 1.5km above the volcano.

The pano view of the active fumarole field inside the crater. The filed is full of gas vents, boiling mud, small geysers and other active formations.

Beautiful pool close to the active vents.

The “Boiling River” Vulkannaya. There were some boiling water pools next to the river.

Fumaroles rich in sulfurous gas create various domes of brimstone. I inhaled the gas accidentally and could not breathe as long as I was near it!

Another brimstone dome emitting steam with a jet-like force.

The edge of one of the two active craters.

This is also an active crater. The much larger lake disappeared after 2003.

The glacier and the edge of the fumarole filed.

The active crater of the Mutnovsky Volcano.

At the bottom of the 150 deep crater, there is a red lake.

A large cloud of gas emanating from the active crater.

The active crater of the Mutnovsky. Notice the people in the gap. Drone photo by Evgeny Androssov

The active crater of the Mutnovsky and the fumarole field. drone photo by Evgeny Androssov

The small green lake is also the bottom of an active crater. Drone photo by Evgeny Androssov

The 150m deep active crater of the Muntovsky. Drone photo by Evgeny Androssov

The double crater of the Muntovsky with two colored lakes! Drone photo by Evgeny Adnrossov

The large glacier and the fumarole field of the Muntovsky Volcano from the drone. Photo by Evgeny Androssov.

The fumarole fields of the Mutnovsky from the drone. Photo by Evgeny Androssov.

Hiking back! We leave the interesting Mutnovsky Volcano behind.

The north side of the Mutnovsky Volcano. We were lucky with the weather again. Low cloud and rain moved in as we left the area.

Hiking from the Mutnovsky Volcano to the Mutnovskaya Geothermal Station.

The Mutnovskaya Geothermal Station in the distance. The power plant uses the geothermal heat to produce electricity. The gas reserves provide power to the station. Numerous wells channeling hot steam to the station dot the landscape. The plant can w… — The Mutnovskaya Geothermal Station in the distance. The power plant uses the geothermal heat to produce electricity. The gas reserves provide power to the station. Numerous wells channeling hot steam to the station dot the landscape. The plant can withstand an earthquake up to magnitude 9!

The Mutnovka Electric Station. It produces 30% of all electricity in Kamchatka. The deepest well drilled for the purpose of extracting steam is 2.2km.

The Dachnye Hot Springs. There are numerous boiling and pulsating springs, fumaroles the temperature of which can reach up to 250C.

This wonderful campsite has hot springs nearby.

Some of the more exotic souvenirs in PK.

Derek Boniecki

August 17, 2019

Камча́тка, Russia - The Tolbachik Volcano Circuit and Volcano Bezimienny

Derek Boniecki

August 17, 2019

Great thanks to Evgeny Androssov, our guide who made this trip a reality for us! It was a pleasure (again) to share this experience with my long-time trekking buddy David.

In August of 2019, we traveled to explore the volcanic landscapes of Kamchatka in Eastern Russia. Volcanoes are not the only reason to go to Kamchatka. Many people go there for fishing and hunting as well. It is also known for its hot springs and senatoria.

Kamchatka is quite remote and it was closed to all tourists until 1992 due to militarily sensitive areas. The landscapes of this peninsula are very unique not only in Russia but the world. Volcanoes are Kamchatka’s biggest attraction and you can see them even before you land in Petropawlowsk-Kamchatsky, the capital city of the region. Since the region has only one main road, getting to some of the remote volcanoes requires planning and can get quite expensive.

Our primary goal was to explore the large Kluchewskaya Cluster National Park. The Park is located 600 km from Petropawlowsk-Kamchatsky and it takes around 10 hours of non-stop driving on progressively deteriorating roads to get there. The final stretch from the main road to the park is on old Soviet logging tracks (one of the primary industries of the region back in the USSR days). The experience of the driver and the quality of the 4x4 are very important as getting stuck in this remote region could basically put an end to the trip. Thanks to Evgeny, our industrious guide, we engaged the help of Sergey, a former hydrologist who worked in the region and knows the forest tracks very well.

Another minor annoyance are the mosquitos and very unpredictable weather (prolonged periods of rain and strong tent-damaging winds). One needs luck to be able to see the beautiful views that Kamchatka has to offer. We were very lucky indeed.

On the Kamchatka Peninsula, there are over 200 volcanoes, 30 of which are active and erupt frequently.

There only one road on the Peninsula. Thankfully it takes you to some beautiful places!

The map of the trails inside the Kluchevsky Cluster Park. Our journey was 120 km long, one of the longest in the park. One can also ascend most of the volcanic peaks without major difficulties except the weather.

The summit cone of one of the volcanoes near Petropawlowsk-Kamchatsky from the landing airplane. I was so excited to be in this mysterious land!

Kamchatka - wild and green - looks splendid!

The modern airport of Petropawlowsk-Kamchatsky.

On the road from Petropawlowsk-Kamchatsky to the trail. It is a long drive through pristine tajga forests full of bears and mosquitoes.

The Kamchatka River is the largest river on the peninsula. You can see the Volcano Kameny above the tajga forest. It is at least 80 km away through the mosquito infested tajga.

The Kamchatka River and the Kluchewskaya group of volcanoes from the drone. Photo by Evgeny Androssov.

The Kamchatka River from the drone. Photo by Evgeny Androssov.

The Kluchewskaya Sobka 4,750m Volcano and Krestowski Volcano 4,057m and the endless taiga forest from the drone. We had to drive through this forest first to get to the trails. Photo by Evgeny Androssov.

Driving through the taiga - home to billions of mosquitoes!

The old Soviet logging roads can be quite challenging. We helped out the Nissan to get out of the mud. Some of the old tracks have been further damaged by the Tolbachik eruptions in 2012. The local drivers just cut alternative tracks through the thi… — The old Soviet logging roads can be quite challenging. We helped out the Nissan to get out of the mud. Some of the old tracks have been further damaged by the Tolbachik eruptions in 2012. The local drivers just cut alternative tracks through the thick bush. The roads are not maintained.

Some larger groups charter these industrial KAMAZ trucks. A KAMAZ truck can take up to 20 passengers and it costs 3,500 Euro for the round trip from Petropawlowsk-Kamchatsky. We met a few large Russian groups that traveled this way. Some were overla… — Some larger groups charter these industrial KAMAZ trucks. A KAMAZ truck can take up to 20 passengers and it costs 3,500 Euro for the round trip from Petropawlowsk-Kamchatsky. We met a few large Russian groups that traveled this way. Some were overlanders and some were trekking in the park. The KAMAZ drivers deflate the tires to handle the tracks.

Our starting point. We started at the Stolnik hut. The forrest track ends here and it is walking from this point on. The large cone of the Ostry Tolbachik Volcano towers above the camp. See the ubiquitous mosquito in the photo frame!

The simple shelters provide a welcome escape from the frequent and intense rain. The air temperature can vary by a lot in the matter of hours. The Ostry Tolbachik 3,672m dominates the view.

Our first view of the Ostry Tolbachik Volcano 3,672m.

On the left is the distant Kluchewska Volcano 4,750m (the highest active volcano in Eurasia). On the right is Kamen Volcano 4,580m, more imposing and with permanent snow. The Kluchewskaya has no snow as it is active and hot.

The beautiful tundra and the Ostry Tolbachik Volcano. The little cones in the photo are picked by the locals for medicinal purposes. They are boiled and often mixed with tea or alcohol to create a healing concoction.

During our first day we had two bear encounters. We almost walked into one young bear (he run away promptly) and this old one came quite close to our camp checking us out. He lingered around eating berries but eventually left and went on. We have no… — During our first day we had two bear encounters. We almost walked into one young bear (he run away promptly) and this old one came quite close to our camp checking us out. He lingered around eating berries but eventually left and went on. We have not seen any other bears after that but they sure came close to our tents during the night.

Beautiful surroundings of the lower parts of the Kluchewskaya Park.

Our first view of the Bezimienny Volcano.

Evgeny Androssov, our guide, is an outdoorsman from Moscow who works as a guide in Kamchatka and other interesting places in Russia.

That day, we trekked for 18 km along the Tolbachik massif. We walked through some beautiful old lava fields with bizarre formations. The contrast between black soil and green vegetation was very striking.

Volcanic bombs from ancient eruptions The black soil seems to be very fertile for various kinds of mosses.

The water made these deep channels and caverns in the soft volcanic rock. There is a narrow slot canyon that one can walk trough during the dry periods.

This slot canyon is about 20m deep and quite narrow.

Bizarre and high lava formations. This one was at least 10m high!

Easy walking through beautiful surroundings. If the weather is good of course.

Lower slopes of the Tolbachik Volcano. The old lava fields stretch over wide area.

Ahead is the small mountain pass we need to cross to get to the base of the Bezimienny Volcano.

Rain and drizzle were our companions (photo by Evgeny Androssov). Good rain gear is essential.

On our way to the base of the Bezimienny Volcano, we had to cross a small pass. We were carrying 50-60lb packs so any “up” was hard work.

Old Soviet geo marker on top of the small pass that we had to cross.

In some areas snow lingers all year round. The summers are very short here and it can snow at any time of the year. Walking on these snow fields was tricky as sometimes there was a hidden channel of melt water. It was easy to punch right through and… — In some areas snow lingers all year round. The summers are very short here and it can snow at any time of the year. Walking on these snow fields was tricky as sometimes there was a hidden channel of melt water. It was easy to punch right through and fall into a wet crevice.

The weather did not look good, and we were supposed to be going up a volcano the next day!

Apparently there are volcanoes behind this cloud!

Zimina Volcano is ahead. Often, the peaks were obscured by low clouds.

The Volcano Zimina 3,081m seen from the basecamp of Bezimienny during the evening.

Bezimienny Volcano exploded violently in 1956. It was very unexpected as the volcano was considered dormant. The explosion was extremely violent and the ash cloud circled the planet twice. After that event, the Soviet volcanologists started to study… — Bezimienny Volcano exploded violently in 1956. It was very unexpected as the volcano was considered dormant. The explosion was extremely violent and the ash cloud circled the planet twice. After that event, the Soviet volcanologists started to study the caldera. This hut belongs to the Volcanology Institute of the Russia Academy of Sciences. It is no longer in use and provides shelter for hikers and trekkers and serves as a basecamp for the Bezimienny Volcano.

Miraculously the weather cleared and we decided to ascend the Volcano Bezimienny 2,882m. It is active and the smoke is rising from the caldera. The ascent is quite steep in places and walking on sand and loose small rocks can be challenging.

Shiveluch Volcano, 3,283m is 80km away! It is the northernmost active volcano of Kamchatka that exploded quite recently in 2019. The volcano has the greatest edifice of all volcanos (70 x 40km). It consists of Old Shiveluch and New Shiveluch with ne… — Shiveluch Volcano, 3,283m is 80km away! It is the northernmost active volcano of Kamchatka that exploded quite recently in 2019. The volcano has the greatest edifice of all volcanos (70 x 40km). It consists of Old Shiveluch and New Shiveluch with newly formed lava dome 500m high. The wide caldera on the opposite side of the mountain is 9km wide. It erupts twice a year. It also has catastrophic eruptions every 100 years or so.

The fantastic views extending over the park. From let to right: Volcan Ostry Zimina 2,743m, Volcano Ovalny Zimina 3,081m, Volcano Udina 2,921m, Volcano Plotsky Tolbachik 3,085m and Volcano Ostry Tolbachik 3,672m.

Ostra Zimina 2,743m and Ovalna Zimina 3,081m. In the distance, Udina 2,921m.

The edge of the active crater of the Bezimienny Volcano. The lava dome, 100m higher was steaming and seemed unstable to climb. Not worth the risk for another 100m of elevation gain. We had the drone to provide us with a peak into the crater, thanks … — The edge of the active crater of the Bezimienny Volcano. The lava dome, 100m higher was steaming and seemed unstable to climb. Not worth the risk for another 100m of elevation gain. We had the drone to provide us with a peak into the crater, thanks to Evgeny who carried it in a separate pack!

The view from the edge of the crater. The final 200m is steep and loose. We were very lucky to have such clear day!

Our trekking route between the volcanoes.

Evgeny and I from the drone (photo by Evgeny Androssov). We spent 3 hours on top taking in the incredible panorama!

Evgeny’s drone - max height has been reached but the volcanoes still tower above!

Drone photo by Evgeny Androssov. The Volcano Kamen 4,580m and active Kluchewskaya 4,750m, they are very impressive! Between these two volcanoes, there is a pass at an elevation of 3,000m from where an ascend can be made. The trick is to get there in… — Drone photo by Evgeny Androssov. The Volcano Kamen 4,580m and active Kluchewskaya 4,750m, they are very impressive! Between these two volcanoes, there is a pass at an elevation of 3,000m from where an ascend can be made. The trick is to get there in good weather.

The rim of the crater, this is as high as we could go without descending into the crater itself.

Drone photo by Evgeny Androssov. This is the crater of the lava dome of the Bezimienny Volcano. It would be a tricky ascent given numerous active vents and ash.

Drone photo by Evgeny Androssov. Active crater of the Bezimienny Volcano. We could smell the smoke from the crater as we were hiking up the mountain.

Drone photo by Evgeny Androssov. The crater of the Bezimienny Volcano seen from the opposite side to us. The height of this “new” dome is 500m. It grew out of the larger crater formed by a large explosion in 1955. It is like a mountain giving birth … — Drone photo by Evgeny Androssov. The crater of the Bezimienny Volcano seen from the opposite side to us. The height of this “new” dome is 500m. It grew out of the larger crater formed by a large explosion in 1955. It is like a mountain giving birth to another mountain.

View over the park and half of our trekking route. We basically started on the extreme right and circled the Tolbachik Volcanoes (the mountain on the right).

The smoking crater of the Bezimienny Volcano and the Kamienny Volcano towering above it. The Kamenny is obscured by volcanic ash.

The upper part of the active crater of Bezimienny.

The active lava dome of the Bezimienny Volcano. The sulfur fumaroles were very active and smoke would come out with varied intensity.

The outer shell of the volcanic dome of the Bezimienny Volcano with active sulphuric fumaroles.

The old volcanic craters seen from the top of Bezimienny and the view of the small pass we had to cross the day before.

The Tolbachik Volcano. We were going to climb the Plotsky Tolbachik but decided not to due to inclement weather.

Evgeny is dwarfed by the walls of the crater.

Evgeny inside the crater of the Bezimienny Volcano. The ground and the rocks were quite hot. There were a lot of fumaroles on the bottom of the crater.

Interesting colors in the lower section of the Bezimienny Volcano.

The lower slopes of the Tolbachik Volcano.

The beautiful camping spot on the Fields of Mars (Massive Pole)

Bezimienny and Kamen seen from the campsite called The field of Mars (Marsove Pole).

The view of the volcanic ash cloud from the crater of Bezimienny at sunrise.

The campsite at the Marsove Pole. I think that this spot is the most beautiful of all the campsites in the park.

The park has these shelters at each campsite to provide an escape from the rain for cooking and warming up by the fire.

The Field of Mars and the high volcanoes of the Kluchewskaya Cluster.

Tolbachik Pass with Kamen and Bezimienny behind.

The Tolbachik Pass is an excellent view point from which all the major volcanoes of the park can be seen. From left to right: Ushkowsky Volcano 3,943, Krestowky Volcano 4,057m, Kamenny 4,580m, smoky Bezimienny 2,800m, Ziminna 3,081m, Udina 2,921m an… — The Tolbachik Pass is an excellent view point from which all the major volcanoes of the park can be seen. From left to right: Ushkowsky Volcano 3,943, Krestowky Volcano 4,057m, Kamenny 4,580m, smoky Bezimienny 2,800m, Ziminna 3,081m, Udina 2,921m and Plotsky and Ostry Tolbachik 3,085k and 3,672m.

Drone photo by Evgeny Androssov. Ushkowsky V 3,943m and Krestowsky V 4,057m (left). Kamenny V and Bezimienny V (right).

The view of Plotsky and Ostry Tolbachik Volcano from the pass.

Early morning on the Tolbachik Pass. We were lucky again to have such nice weather. The weather changed later that day and remained rainy and overcast for the rest of our stay in the park.

Ushkovsky Volcano together with Krestovsky Volcano are the biggest volcanic massif in Kamchatka. It is 3,943m high and 4,057m high and the base is 70 x 40km.

I am standing on top of a small mound. The Udina Volcano towers in the distance. That day we hiked to its base some 15km away. The large open space had no water, yet it is covered with flowers and vegetation! We were looking for streams all day and … — I am standing on top of a small mound. The Udina Volcano towers in the distance. That day we hiked to its base some 15km away. The large open space had no water, yet it is covered with flowers and vegetation! We were looking for streams all day and could only find water from the snow melt at the base of the Udina Volcano. Apparently all water flows underground in the old lava channels. The porous volcanic rock is conducive to existence of underground rivers.

As we went further away from the large volcanoes, we could see them better in their full majesty. Kamenny, Kluchewskaya and Bezimienny. Notice the 500m high dome of the Bezimienny Volcano that grew from the crater after the 1955 explosion.

Going towards the Udina Volcano. Our plan was to go for 8km but we ended up doing twice as much due to lack of water and a suitable camping spot.

Fellow trekkers camping at the base of the Zimina Volcano.

The Kamenny Volcano and the active Kluchewskaya.

Volcano Bezimienny that we climbed, looks so small in front of the 4,500+ giants! The Bezimienny Volcano is very similar in its nature to Mt. St. Helen in Washington State, USA. Both had very similar explosive eruptions and both have large lava dome… — Volcano Bezimienny that we climbed, looks so small in front of the 4,500+ giants! The Bezimienny Volcano is very similar in its nature to Mt. St. Helen in Washington State, USA. Both had very similar explosive eruptions and both have large lava domes forming inside their craters. Volcanologists study the behavior of Bezimienny to predict the explosions of Mt. St. Helen. Volcano Bezimienny exploded on March 30, 1955 submerging the entire area in darkness. The cloud of ash rose to 45km and burned all trees in the 25km radius. The blast created a 700m deep crater 1.3 x 2.8km large. Over the past decade, the dome inside the crater rose to the height of 500m.

The 4,750m high Kluchewskaya Volcano is the largest volcano in Eurasia. It is the most powerful and most productive in Kamchatka. It erupts 60 million tons of rock per year! Powerful eruptions occur every 25 years. The volcano started growing from 1… — The 4,750m high Kluchewskaya Volcano is the largest volcano in Eurasia. It is the most powerful and most productive in Kamchatka. It erupts 60 million tons of rock per year! Powerful eruptions occur every 25 years. The volcano started growing from 1,700m 3,000 years ago. Now it is 4,750m high.

A dwarf species of rhododendron flower during the short summer.

The base of the Udina Volcano and our camping spot for the day!

Another hut built by the Soviet volcanologists. Sadly, the old Soviet books from the hut are used as a fire starter. The hut provides extremely rustic shelter from the wind and rain.

These ground squirrels were everywhere and were unafraid of people. They were very plump!

Distant Sredinny Range one of the two main mountain ranges of the Kamchatka Peninsula. It is rugged and remote with no road access.

There are extensive fresh lava fields on the opposite side of the Tolbachik Volcano from where we started. They were formed during the 2012-2013 eruptions. The Tolbachik Volcano is the only volcano outside Hawaii that erupts through fissures and not… — There are extensive fresh lava fields on the opposite side of the Tolbachik Volcano from where we started. They were formed during the 2012-2013 eruptions. The Tolbachik Volcano is the only volcano outside Hawaii that erupts through fissures and not from the main crater.

The Udina Volcano and the black soil of the Tolbachik lava fields.

The basecamp of the Tolbachik Volcano is 100km away from the main road. It is accessible via an old logging track and many people come to climb the volcano. It is a desolate place without vegetation and is covered in volcanic dust and old lava. The … — The basecamp of the Tolbachik Volcano is 100km away from the main road. It is accessible via an old logging track and many people come to climb the volcano. It is a desolate place without vegetation and is covered in volcanic dust and old lava. The wind here was so strong that it damaged two of our tents (one completely). The basecamp is also home to the “Inspector” - the Park warden.

The Inspectos’s hut. One can obtain maps and commemorative pins. The inspector also collects fees for the use of the kitchen facilities by large groups.

Our camp before the wind storm. The wind got so intense that I had to move my tent to a more sheltered spot. The small green tent got totally trashed by the wind.

My tent taking a beating during the wind and rain storm. The lava rocks provided solid anchors as it was impossible to peg the tent in the volcanic sand. I was quite amazed that the tent withstood the onslaught while all the other tents got blown aw… — My tent taking a beating during the wind and rain storm. The lava rocks provided solid anchors as it was impossible to peg the tent in the volcanic sand. I was quite amazed that the tent withstood the onslaught while all the other tents got blown away or trashed. I was fully prepared for the poles to snap as the wind “flattened” the tent on top of me during the gusts.

We spent the day exploring the extensive lava fields and old volcanic craters. It was all very fascinating! The cooled lava made wonderful formations. Some looked like coiled rope or roots of trees. We walked through lava caves and lava tubes. Many … — We spent the day exploring the extensive lava fields and old volcanic craters. It was all very fascinating! The cooled lava made wonderful formations. Some looked like coiled rope or roots of trees. We walked through lava caves and lava tubes. Many areas are still active and, in some places, the ground temperature is in excess of 100C!

The edge of the lava flow. The lava moved very slowly and just “froze” once it cooled.

The volcanic plugs sticking from the field of ash.

Fresh lava field. We were often walking on top of lava channels. I was concerned to break through. The lava is very sharp and hard and can cut through like a knife. It is also very easy to walk on as the surface is abrasive and provides excellent fo… — Fresh lava field. We were often walking on top of lava channels. I was concerned to break through. The lava is very sharp and hard and can cut through like a knife. It is also very easy to walk on as the surface is abrasive and provides excellent footing. The lava is black on top but has numerous shades of reds and browns underneath. It forms beautiful shapes like glass art. If placed in an art gallery, many people would not be able to guess what it was.

Negotiating the extensive lava fields. Photo by Evgeny Androssov.

When the color of lava was yellowish, it usually indicated a hot and active area. The ground was more brittle in those spots.

The ground was hot enough to warm up and dry our wet gloves.

The distant hills are the active volcanic craters that were the epicenter of the most recent eruption in 2012-2013.

As the lava cooled the carbon exposed to oxygen remained black. Underneath the lava has different colours.

Inside a volcanic bomb the lava is like a frozen sticky glue but hard like a rock.

Incredible colours of the volcanic rock near an active area.

Exploring lava caves - huge caverns that held liquid magma during the 2012-2013 eruptions.

Evgeny marching to the top of the lava crater. Notice the basecamp on the left.

The pumice rock is very light but walking uphill on it can be hard as it slides from under the feet.

The slopes of a volcanic crater. What an incredible place!

Despite the rain, we really enjoyed exploring this area; it was a kaleidoscope of colors.

Many craters of the recent Tolbachik eruption. Notice David in a red jacket standing above the crater. It gives the sense of scale of the vastness of this area. In the distance is the Udina Volcano.

The slopes of the Tolbachik Volcano obscured by the clouds. Poor weather and lack of visibility prevented us from going to the top although it was our plan.

The volcanic crater in front of the Tolbachik Volcano.

Walking on ash created by the 2012-2013 eruptions.

Our final day of trekking. We walked through a volcanic desert. It truly felt as if we were on another planet. It was very desolate.

Like walking on another planet! This place of “nothing” went on for over 20km!

Just ash and volcanic sand - not a trace of vegetation is sight. This was completely different from the other side of the mountain.

Massive volcanic bombs. Some of them were size of a small car! The crater above exploded in the 1970s. I hiked to the top of it and the crater is still active with smoke and hot areas.

We were waiting for Sergei, our driver, and I hiked up to the top of a volcanic cone next to the shelter. From the top, the desolate landscape spreads out as far as the eye can see. I hiked to the top to warm up as we are getting really cold in the … — We were waiting for Sergei, our driver, and I hiked up to the top of a volcanic cone next to the shelter. From the top, the desolate landscape spreads out as far as the eye can see. I hiked to the top to warm up as we are getting really cold in the mist and rain.

Old Soviet “Zil” adapted to overland travel. According to the driver, there are not many original parts from the old truck left on it.

Another volcanic lava flow from an old crater. This lava flow dates back to 1970s. It is old for us but very recent in geological terms.

Multitude of colours inside the volcanic crater.

Our final stop in the park was in the Dead Forest. The forest was killed by the volcanic eruption leaving only charred tree trunks. The life is returning though and the forest is regrowing.

A wreck of a Soviet helicopter belonging to the Russian Academy of Science that crashed here in the 1970s.

Sergiey, a true Kamchatka man. He met us after our 10 day hike with beer, home baked salmon, samogon and other goodies! He knows a lot about Kamchatka, the geology of the land, the history and the stories of the people of the region. He can also dri… — Sergiey, a true Kamchatka man. He met us after our 10 day hike with beer, home baked salmon, samogon and other goodies! He knows a lot about Kamchatka, the geology of the land, the history and the stories of the people of the region. He can also drive through some pretty remote and obscure tracks that are almost fully overgrown by the Tajga. He is equipped for all eventualities. He had a chainsaw in his truck and used it to clear fallen trees from barely visible forest roads. He provided us with some good tips and suggestions. Thanks to him we saw places that otherwise we would not have visited.

A wall of lava advancing through the tajga. The lava is higher than the trees!

Massive lava field dwarfing the forest. The height and volume of the lava is staggering.

The lava mowing down the forest just “froze” in its tracks. The eruption happened during winter and because of this, the forest did not burn down.

Drone photo by Evgeny Androssov of the massive lava field

Drone photo by Evgeny Androssov - notice our car in the bottom centre

Derek Boniecki

August 17, 2019

Russia Far East - Sakhalin, Vladivostok, Petropawlowsk-Kamchatsky

Derek Boniecki

August 17, 2019

The Trans-Siberian terminus station in Vladivostok

The terminus marker of the Trans-Siberian Railway

Derek Boniecki

August 16, 2019

Taiwan

Derek Boniecki

August 16, 2019

The most prominent historical landmark in Taiwan, the CKS Memorial Hall was erected in honor and memory of Generalissimo Chiang Kai-shek, the former President of the Republic of China, and was opened in 1980 as part of a national park and gathering … — The most prominent historical landmark in Taiwan, the CKS Memorial Hall was erected in honor and memory of Generalissimo Chiang Kai-shek, the former President of the Republic of China, and was opened in 1980 as part of a national park and gathering area. The characters behind Chiang's statue read "Ethics", "Democracy", and "Science", and the inscriptions on the side read "The purpose of life is to improve the general life of humanity" and "The meaning of life is to create and sustain subsequent lives in the universe".

The name of the square is officially Liberty Square (自由廣場), as seen above the front gate, however the name change was politically motivated and most people in practice still refer to the entire complex as CKS Memorial Hall. — The name of the square is officially *Liberty Square (自由廣場)*, as seen above the front gate, however the name change was politically motivated and most people in practice still refer to the entire complex as CKS Memorial Hall.

The octagon-shaped white building rises 76 meters and is covered with blue tiles and red accents, echoing the flag of the Republic of China. The eight sides represent the Chinese cultural symbolism of the number eight which is traditionally associat… — The octagon-shaped white building rises 76 meters and is covered with blue tiles and red accents, echoing the flag of the Republic of China. The eight sides represent the Chinese cultural symbolism of the number eight which is traditionally associated with fortune and wealth. The two sets of 89 steps represent Chiang's age of death and lead up to main hall housing a large bronze statue of Chiang protected by military personnel which change hourly.

Originally constructed in 1742 as a wooden shrine, the Bao'an Temple is a Taiwanese folk religion temple. Throughout Taiwan's history, the temple was renovated and reconstructed numerous times, leading to a 2003 induction into UNESCO for cultural he… — Originally constructed in 1742 as a wooden shrine, the Bao'an Temple is a Taiwanese folk religion temple. Throughout Taiwan's history, the temple was renovated and reconstructed numerous times, leading to a 2003 induction into UNESCO for cultural heritage conservation.
Dedicated to the Taoist saint *Baosheng Dadi (保生大帝)*, the 900 SQ METRE large temple faces south, in line with Feng-Shui practices, and houses the front, main, and rear halls, along with the east and west halls. The buildings also run from tallest to shortest in that order, in observance of Confucian principles. The temple also houses a drum tower.
Important architectural elements around the temple grounds include stone carvings, stone lions, dragon columns, stone bamboo windows, and wood, stone, and clay carvings.

Derek Boniecki

June 4, 2019

Ancohuma 6,427M Bolivia

Derek Boniecki

June 4, 2019

Ancohuma is the highest peak of the northern part of the Cordillera Real Range. It is 6,427m high. It was our main reason for coming on this trip. It is a six day round trip excursion from the town of Sorata (140km from La Paz). The route has 3 camps: at 4,000m, 5,100m and 5,450m. The climb is not technical (via normal route) but it is LONG! The glacier is also very crevassed and the hidden slots present a real danger so being roped up is a must. We had fantastic weather and very good conditions. We were stopped 150m from the summit by a large crevasse that was too dangerous to navigate for us. Never the less, it was a fabulous experience and a great adventure!

The locals believe that the gringoes go to the top to find gold. According to them, there is a little lake on top of Ancohuma with gold deposits in it and we are on the mission to get it. Why would anyone go up there otherwise?

The road from La Paz to Sorata. The town of Sorata is at an altitude of 2,800m. I was there in 2010 and always wanted to come back to climb Ancohuma.

The Illampu/Ancohuma massif. The beautiful Illampu towers over the road below.

Another view of the Ancohuma/Illampu massif. Ancohuma is the round summit on the left. The massif consists of many sub peaks and many glaciers.

The road ends and the walking starts. We had mules help carry our stuff to the first camp.

The first camp at Laguna Chillata at 4000m. It is a beautiful and clear lake which is sacred to the local people.

Then the clouds rolled in and we did not see anything until the morning.

The fantastic panorama at sunset from Laguna Glaciar. You are standing literally at the edge of the world looking over the Altiplano and the Lake Titikaka.

Looking over the Royal Range from Laguna Glaciar.

The trail between camp 1 and camp 2. We could not use mules on this section and had to rely on porters.

These are the trail sections impassible for the animals.

Approaching Laguna Glaciar. Pico Schultze towers above. We are now entering the world of glaciers and moraines.

Beautiful Pico Schultze is right in front. We saw a few condors circling above and checking us out.

Our camp at Laguna Glaciar at 5,100m. This is a very beautiful spot with high Andes all around. This is how far we made it in 2010. I always wanted to come back and explore more of this fantastic corner of the Cordillera Real.

Laguna Glaciar and Illampu. Illampu is the most difficult mountain to climb in the entire range. The standard climbing route is on the opposite side of the mountain.

Compare the glacial retreat to my photo from 2010 (click)! The icefall between Illampu and Ancohuma. In a decade, the glacier moved back considerably. The melting of the glaciers makes the climbing more difficult as crevasses open up making routes i… — Compare the glacial retreat to my photo from 2010 (click)! The icefall between Illampu and Ancohuma. In a decade, the glacier moved back considerably. The melting of the glaciers makes the climbing more difficult as crevasses open up making routes impassible.

The upper section of Illampu. The glacial changes make the climbing more challenging,

Sunset on Illampu. This is the star mountain of the entire area.

Drone photo of the Laguna Glaciar and Illampu.

Ancohuma from the moraines around the basecamp

The trail from Laguna Glaciar to the High Camp at 5,450m. We are now on permanent snow/ice.

The views were getting quite spectacular as we approached the high camp.

One of our porters approaching the high camp. Illampu is in the distance.

The high camp is on the edge of the high moraine. It is a fantastic spot with great views. There are a few flat platforms for tents.

Looking down to the Altiplano from 5,350m near the high camp.

Panoramic view from the door of our tent.

The altitude of the high camp. My altimiter is off by 180m so it is really 5,465m.

We would soon be well above this peak on the way to Ancohuma.

We had to negotiate this maze of ice - not too difficult as you could see the obstacles. The real challenge was higher up where everything was flat and snow covered!

Gregorio scouting the route for the following night. We wanted to follow our own trail and not wander in the dark.

At sunrise we were above the ice maze and on the large plateau. This part was the most dangerous for the hidden crevasses.

Plodding up. It was so very cold! My water froze in my pack. We were waiting for the sun to come out but it would be a long time. Once the sun came out, the temperature shift was 50C! It became unbearably hot and the glacial radiation was very inten… — Plodding up. It was so very cold! My water froze in my pack. We were waiting for the sun to come out but it would be a long time. Once the sun came out, the temperature shift was 50C! It became unbearably hot and the glacial radiation was very intense.

Well above 6,000m. Approaching the final section fo the climb. the summit is just above us.

The summit part of the mountain. We are 150m below the summit.

This is where we encountered the impassible crevasse. We made the decision to bail.

Looking down to our route. The camp is well below!

The rocky summit that towers over the Laguna Glaciar is now very small and well below us.

One of the hidden crevasses… Rope is an absolute must!

Working our way across one of the crevices with the summit bulk of Ancohuma behind.

Our camp is on the lower left by the last rocky outcrop

Our small team; Gregorio, Ricardo, Gilles and I

And just like that, it is all over! Until the next time! It was a fabulous adventure yet again.

Derek Boniecki

June 4, 2019

Huayna Potosi 6,088m Bolivia

Derek Boniecki

June 4, 2019

Huayna Potosi was our second acclimatization step on the road to Ancohuma. You will see the name “Huayna Potosi” on the window of every agency in La Paz offering a 3 day climb to a 6,000m mountain for novices. It is a surprisingly beautiful experience. The mountain is not technical but it is high. On our way up we saw quite a few people turning around due to altitude problems some of those people could barely walk. Some of the people did not even leave the high camp. The agencies in La Paz claim that the climb is not a big deal just to sell the trip. The altitude makes it a big deal though and if you are not acclimatized it can be an experience you will not forget for a long time, but for the very wrong reason.

The mountain towers over El Alto and it is only a short distance from the city. It has a good basecamp at 4,700m and a high camp at 5,150m. Both camps are permanent structures offering bunk beds and meal service. The climb is really just a high altitude hike with crevices being the main danger. Unfortunately for us we picked a day with high winds (65km/hr) and upon reaching the final ridge at the top, we decided to turn around. The wind was just too strong and it was almost knocking us over. It was a fun climb though and we enjoyed the experience very much.

We followed the combination of (2) and (5)

Crazy wind near the summit part of the mountain

Our objective from the road. The route is on the opposite side of the mountain.

The accommodation at the base camp at 4,700m.

En route from the basecamp to the high camp. The main summit is in the cloud.

The high camp at 5,150m, the views are quite spectacular!

We started at 5 am and by the time it started to get light we were quite high at 5,700m.

The rope is required for potential danger with hidden crevices.

The final push to the summit is ahed. We are now close to 6,000m and the wind is picking up!

The final section leading to the summit. The wind became too much for us here.

Illimani, the highest peak in the Royal Range, from the upper slopes of Huayna Potosi.

Upper section of the mountain dissected by many crevices.

Panoramic view of the upper part of the mountain with the summit visible on the right.

Looking towards the Jungas and the Amazon basin.

Big glaciers at the upper part of the mountain and Illimani in the distance.

Illimani, the highest peak in the Royal Range.

We had to negotiate one steeper slope and some crevices along the way.

Beautiful views to the countless peaks below.

The view of the lower part of the glacier from near the high camp. It is quite a long way to the top from here! The main summit is in the cloud. We had lousy weather with high winds and the cloud obstructing the summit.

This small section just before the high camp was the most treacherous. The rocks were covered with ice and it would be an easy slip.

Derek Boniecki

June 4, 2019

Ausangate Trek Peru

Derek Boniecki

June 4, 2019

The Ausangate trek is a “little” gem among the attractions of the Cusco region of Peru. It is not very popular among millions of tourists that visit the more famous Inca Trail and Machu Picchu. The full circuit (“la vuelta” in Spanish), is a six day affair although it can be done in a shorter time. There are a few variations of the trak, one ends at the Rainbow Mountain, another cuts across the front of the range. There is also a longer varsion that traverses the entire range of Cordillera Vilcanota.

Our main objective was to acclimatize to the altitude of 6,000 in order to climb Ancohuma in Bolivia. This trek gave us a perfect combination of climbing to high passes and sleeping at lower elevations. We did not see many other hikers along the way and for the most part, we had the entire place to ourselves. Action Treks Peru from Cusco organized the support for us. The service provided to us was first class. We had a fantastic guide, Odon who told us many interesting things about the region, culture, history and customs of the local people. Yes, one can do the trek without the help of the local guide but, it is nice to give back to the people of the region that we visit and, it is a great opportunity to learn a lot about many interesting aspects of the life on the Altiplano.

The entire Ausangate Range. The large mountain on the right is Apu Ausangate 6,372m.

In order to get to the trek, we needed to travel on the Interoceanic Highway connecting the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans.

The lower slopes of the Vilcanota Range are inhabited by the Quechua people. Their traditions are very colourful and lively. They live in communes consisting of many villages. Each commune has its own laws and rules. The members do not own land or p… — The lower slopes of the Vilcanota Range are inhabited by the Quechua people. Their traditions are very colourful and lively. They live in communes consisting of many villages. Each commune has its own laws and rules. The members do not own land or property and all the income from work or trade is shared among the people from the commune.

Our first day with Mt. Ausangate right in front of us. It was a nice short hike to our first campsite at 4.400m in Upis.

Ausangate at sunset from the hills above Upis.

Mt. Jatunpunta that we would pass by on our 5th day.

From Upis it was a gentle climb to the first pass at 4,800m - Abra Pass

At Abra Pass, the scenery changed to colourful mountain rich in mineral deposits.

Dry hills around the Abra Pass, a photo from a drone.

From the Abra Pass we passed by many beautiful lakes and many local families tending to their llamas and alpacas.

Lake Pucacocha and the spot for our second night’s camp at 4,800m. From here the trail divides: one continues around Ausangate and the other leads to the Rainbow Mountain.

The impressive icefall of Ausangate. The same face of Ausangate is visible from the Rainbow Mountain.

En route to the second high pass Apacheta Pass 4,850m

The mountains are becoming more mineral rich. The kaleidoscopic colours are out of this world!

From the Apacheta Pass we had to descend 500m only to re-climb 800m to Palomani Pass 5,080m.

Hiking up to Palomani Pass with fantastic views.

Almost at Palomani Pass looking back from the valley we came from.

Finally, the Palomani Pass - our first time at 5,000m!

The Palomani Pass and the mini Rainbow Mountain

From Palomani Pass we could see this unusual red lake with icebergs. It was very beautiful! The mountain above the lake is Nevado Santa Catalina.

Drone photo of us and Nevado Santa Catalina

Mineral rich mountains around the Palomani Pass. In 2016 we hiked by the Rainbow Mountain and the Red Valley. A spectacular hike!

The wild snow formations on the summit of Ausangate at 6,372m

Ausangate from the descent trail from the Palomani Pass to out third camp at Pampakancha

From Pampakancha camp, the trail leads to the fourth high pass Jampa Pass at 5,050m

Nevado Puca Punta on the way to Jampa Pass

Approaching Jampa Pass at 5,000m and the scenery changed yet again. Every day on this trek we had different scenery!

Finally at Jampa Pass - a wonderful view and beautiful mountains. We had such great weather!

From Jampa Pass, we descended to our fourth camp at Pucacocha.

The Action Treks Peru team. Note our Chef in a very formal outfit. His meals were of restaurant quality and I can honestly say that I have never had better meals on any treks in the past 20 years!

The beautiful sacred lakes surrounding our last camp. The locals revere the mountain (“Apu” means God - Apu Ausangate) and the lakes. Some of the lakes can only be touched by the local shamans.

Salkantay mountain on the horizon (left) - another popular hike on the way to Machu Picchu.

On our way to Pacchanta and the hot springs! More beautiful lakes and no people! Everyone is on the Inca Trail!

Crystal clear lakes at the foot of Ausangate

Sacred lake at the foot of Ausangate. Most likely the source of the water is from an underground spring. The glacial meltoff would not be so crystal clear. This lake remineded me of the Yellowstone NP.

Beautiful scenery of the front ranges of Ausangate

Ausangate from Pacchanta at sunset. We had this magnificent view while soaking in the hot spring. It does not get any better than that!

The wonderful hot springs at Pacchanta - the temperature was perfect for lingering and soaking in the views. The local lady even sells cold drinks. The hot pool belongs to the community. Different family looks after the pool each week. Earlier in th… — The wonderful hot springs at Pacchanta - the temperature was perfect for lingering and soaking in the views. The local lady even sells cold drinks. The hot pool belongs to the community. Different family looks after the pool each week. Earlier in the day, the pool was full of local people who come to the nearby warm river to bathe.

The small village of Pacchanta. Cold Coke and Beer is available!

Local ladies selling their creations at our last camp. The ladies weave the cloth and make various things from it. The quality is high and the prices are very fair. This was a wonderful trek and a perfect way for us to acclimatize to altitude. And, … — Local ladies selling their creations at our last camp. The ladies weave the cloth and make various things from it. The quality is high and the prices are very fair. This was a wonderful trek and a perfect way for us to acclimatize to altitude. And, it is only 4 hours away from Cusco! Another fabulous experience in Peru!

Derek Boniecki

January 8, 2019

Yellowstone National Park in Winter 2019

Derek Boniecki

January 8, 2019

In January of 2019 we went cross country skiing to Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming, USA. The park is closed to vehicles and the only way to get in is via a snowcoach or snowmobile. A snowcoach is a large van or a small bus with huge inflated tyres that allow it to travel in deep snow. There are very few people in the park and even less on ski trails. The animals are close to the thermal pools and easy to spot. It was a beautiful experience and I concluded that the park is more beautiful in winter than during any other season of the year. You get a sense of how difficult it is for the animals to survive in the extreme winter conditions. Yet they preserver in this game of survival. This was my fifth time in the park but my first time during winter and I left with a renewed sense of appreciation for this unique corner of the world.

Derek Boniecki

November 19, 2018

Calgary Mountain Film Festival

Derek Boniecki

November 19, 2018

I had an opportunity to participate in the Calgary Mountain Film Festival (cmff). It was a lot of fun and a great experience to share some of the stories from trekking in Nepal. Thanks to www.spiritwest.ca for inviting me.

Derek Boniecki

November 14, 2018

Langtang, Tilman Pass and Ganjala Trip Report

Derek Boniecki

November 14, 2018

Nepal Tilman Pass and Ganja La Pass

October 16, 2018 – November 11, 2018

Participants: Derek and David. Shyam (the guide), Niranjan (#2), Milan, Roshan, Santosh and Sanchaman. We could not have done it without those great guys!

October 18, 2018 Kathmandu

I am back in Kathmandu, Nepal after a long, long flight. The visa process on arrival was as chaotic as ever. I am not sure how is Nepal going to double the number of visitors, as already the authorities have a tough time coping with the traffic as is? 2 hours aver arriving in Kathmandu, I am finally out of the airport.

Raj, the owner of Mountain Sun Valley Trekking (organizing our trip) met me at the gate and we went to his house for dhal bat and some good cheer. I know his family and they are so very nice and great. I appreciate very much being treated as a friend and not only as a customer. While at Raj’s house, Shyam our guide on this trek, came over. He brought his brother Niranjan with him. I like Niranjan very much, he is tough, very competent and always smiling. He is one of the few people that I would not hesitate to take with me on any trip! After greetings and some beer, we reviewed our gear and checked the tents. There will be 8 of us all together and it is unlikely that we will come across many trekkers on this trip.

After a good lunch, Raj took me to Hotel Nirvana. I checked in, dropped my stuff, and went for a walk around Thamel, the tourist district of Kathmandu. A lot of shops were closed due to the festival of Dashan. I was tired from all the flying and went back to Nirvana Hotel for a 2-hour nap before David’s arrival. After David arrived, we went for some Tibetan momos (dumplings) and then off to bed by 8.30pm.

October 19, 2018 Okhrani 2,400m

We left Kathmandu at 8am on a road leading north. The state of infrastructure in Kathmandu is falling further and further behind. I am frankly not sure how the residents of this city can put up with the state of roads? The entire way out of Kathmandu was through a torn up track full of holes, dust and mud. I would not even call it a road. It was more of a track.

On the way to the trailhead, we drove through the village of Malamchi where we had lunch in a local establishment. The 70km distance took up the entire day. From Malamchi the road climbed up and it was in even worse shape (if this is possible!) than earlier in the day. We were rocking and jolting all the way from Malamchi to Okhreni. One really needs a good 4x4 with high clearance and good traction. I would imagine that during the monsoon season these tracks are not passable. Some of the ruts were over two feet deep!

We arrived in Okhreni, our starting point for the trek, which is in the middle of nowhere and has a deserted feel to it. Once we arrived and unpacked, we realized that along the way we lost some of our provisions, as our load was not tied up properly to the roof railings. The road was so bumpy that the packages containing, most importantly, a month supply of porridge was lost! David was unimpressed but soldiered through with gusto. It was very un-British of him to let the porridge dream go so easily.

Initially, our general plan was to hire a porter in Kathmandu who would know the route to the Tilman Pass. Unfortunately, the elusive porter could not make it due to some nebulous reason and we were left without any idea where we were going except to follow a ridge to Panch Pokhari (a popular Hindu holy site in the foothills of the Langtang Range of the Himalaya). One would assume that following a ridge should be intuitive but there are many tracks along the way and it is actually quite easy to lose one’s way. The biggest problem that we were anticipating was finding the way later on among glaciers and moraines in the high mountains. Not knowing the way gave me some anxiety. The non-existent gear of the porters compounded this. We would be faced with far simpler but equally serious problems sooner than that…

After we arrived in Okhreni, Shyam set out on a mission to find out which way to go? Some serious looking locals congregated around our map and offered some very serious suggestions. I was a little apprehensive about going on a multi day trek without knowing how to get to the destination. I guess this would be more of an exploratory trek.

Okhreni is located on a beautiful ridge overlooking other ridges descending from the Langtang Range. The village consists of 5 houses. The Langtang Range dominates the horizon and glows beautifully at sunrise and sunset. It was not cloudy but the humidity provided ample condensation for freezing, and it actually felt as if it rained at night (it did not) making everything wet.

Today we start the walk. I am not yet “into it” and it will take me some time to warm up both mentally and physically. It usually takes me a few days to switch from the city mode to the hill mode.

October 21, 2018 3,450m

I totally missed my birthday on October 21. It was the first day of the hike. We started at 2,400m on a well-camouflaged trail through a thick forest. After a few hours of forest walking we reached a clearing where we had lunch. We had a tough time finding water (this would continue to be our most serious issue on the way up and down the ridges). The guys would set out looking for water and it would take a long time before they could locate even a small stream or seepage among some well hidden rocks.

After lunch we continued for another 2 hours mostly uphill to a prominent treeless ridge. At the top of the ridge, at 3,400m, there were chortens and a cluster of prayer flags flapping in the wind indicating a pass. From this point, we had some great views to the valley below with cumulus clouds milling about. The view was almost the same as from an airplane flying above the clouds. We descended from the pass to a treeless meadow where we set up our camp for the night. We had extensive views from the edge of the meadow to the Langtang Range in the northwest and the valley below. It looked like we were following the correct ridge to Panch Pokhari and the Tilman Pass beyond.

So far, we have not come across any villages, people or even animals. We cannot ask for directions and have to rely on our intuition (and a general map). So far so good though! We had good dinner in a stone kharka that provided nice shelter from the wind and cold. Off to bed at 7 pm.

October 22, 2018 Hille Banjang 3,545m

In the morning I took a walk to the top of a ridge looming over our camp. As I neared the crest of the ridge, the sun just came up from behind the Himalayan range in the east iluminating the landscape in early morning glow. It was very beautiful and I felt on top of the world with the Himalayan Range stretched before me and the valleys below. The rising sun illuminated the entire Langtang and Jugal Ranges. It was stunning. After taking some photos, I hiked back to the tent. The tent was in the shade so it remained wet and covered with frost throughout the morning. The sun would not hit it until much later so we had to pack the wet tent and damp sleeping bags “as is”.

We started walking north and rounded the end of a ridge to some much welcome sunshine. After a short while though, a thick layer of clouds obscured all the views that we were so much enjoying and dropped the temperature by several degrees. The clouds stayed with us for the remainder of the day. As we progressed north and higher, the clouds got thicker and at some point we were walking in the fog with the ends of our boots providing the only view.

The trail dropped down 300m to a nice spot where we could find water and have lunch. Again, availability of water dictated our lunch and camping spots. After lunch, we ascended to 3,750m then down to 3,500m. A true rollercoaster.

It seems that along this route, each campsite was full of trash and was in general state of disrepair. Mainly Hindu pilgrims on the walk to the 5 holy lakes called Panch Pokhari use this trail each summer. They seem to just throw things around without any regard for others. At some spots we felt as we were camping in the middle of a garbage dump.

So far, we did not meet anyone along the trail (animals or people). The place has a very remote feel to it. Today, the porters were quite tired as it was a long day with many ups and downs (maybe 18km). They are also carrying double loads to make more money. A double load was 40 to 50 kg! Shyam had to run back and help one of the porters bring the loads to the camp. It was just too much for the young porter. It was very nice of Shyam to help.

October 24, 2018 Nashimpati 3,680m

Today we had a clear sky and good visibility all day. We started in the shade again, cold and dark, but soon emerged onto the sunny side of the track. David and I climbed to the top of a small ridge for some fine views of the Jugal Himal in China and Gauri Sankar in the Rowaling region that we traversed in 2010. We were walking parallel to the Friendship Highway in Tibet. Neylam (a town in Tibet and the starting point for the approach to Mt. Shishapangma) is somewhere below from where we were. After a short break in the sun, we started to climb up on a good trail with some steep drop offs. At one point, wood planks hanging above a 50m drop reinforced the trail.

After a 3-hour hike we arrived at Nashimpati, a spectacular spot. There was a teahouse there run by a family with 4 kids and a friendly dog. The views in all directions were absolutely spectacular. As the day progressed, the views got better and better and reached a crescendo at sunset when all shades of orange were projected on the snowy peaks that we would soon be crossing. This was the best sunset spot I have ever been to in the entire Himalaya. The light on Mt. Dorje Lakpa to the north was fabulous. As the sun was setting in the west, a full moon rose over the Himalaya to the northeast.

Mt. Dorje Lakpa in the last rays of the setting sun.

We had a good dinner and a cold evening. I was concerned that the night would be freezing in my 3-season MSR tent but it was quite fine. The hot water bottle in my sleeping bag sure made the difference.

I had a light headache due to the altitude or dehydration. I was starting to adjust to the rhythm of the trek and go with the flow of things.

October 25, 2018 Panch Pokhari 4,050m

We had a short day today. The walk from Nashimpati to Panch Pokhari was only 2 hours long with a 500m-elevation gain. After following a well defined trail along a side of a mountain, we crossed the Lubrina Pass (4,000m). The climb to the pass required some climbing but going slow and steady made the effort negligible.

Once we arrived at Panch Pokhari we met a group of 4 Korean ladies with 14 porters who were also going over the Tilman Pass. This was such luck for us considering my anxiety about not knowing the way! The ladies were doing the Great Himalaya Trail in 2-month long sections at a time. They were slow but methodical and seemed determined. They arrived from Lukla after crossing the Teshi Laptsa Pass. During this 2-moth long trip, their plan was to walk all the way to the Larkya Pass in the Manaslu region. Most importantly for us though, they had porters with gear and someone in their group that apparently knew the way. I thought that we were in luck and I told Shyam that under no circumstances should we part company with them until we cross the pass! Given that we did not know the way, had no gear and relied on luck for most of our success, this seemed like quite a serendipitous encounter.

Our crew had no proper clothing, no boots, and no crampons. Basically nothing. Our porters were dressed for a beer party in Kathmandu and not for the Himalayan trek. We needed good weather to be in luck yet again! I hate to leave everything to chance and luck but I just go with the flow (as I have no choice really – a metaphor for life in a condensed format). It seems that on every trek, luck plays the first fiddle.

During our approach, I was not looking forward to being on the trek where the porters would be climbing ice in tennis shoes and torn jeans, using baby blankets for warmth and bamboo sticks for ice axes. However, having the Koreans gave us strength in numbers and, with their help, our motley crew would stand a chance of success. In retrospect, if we had poor weather, we would have had no chance of success on our own. LUCK or KARMA was on our side though!

Panch Pokhari was a dumpy place full of trash situated in a shaded bowl with no views. The resident limping goat provided limited entertainment. The toilets were disgusting and filled up to the rim. We could shit and pee everywhere except the holy lakes. I guess the trash is fine, just not the pee.

A short walk from the camp, one can ascend a ridge with splendid panorama of the now closer Langtang and Jugal Ranges. From the ridge we could see the trail leading to our next camp closer to the Tilman Pass. The pass itself was hidden behind the high mountains. From our vantage point, the trail looked like a rollercoaster: up and down for the entire way. The view extended to all high peaks of the Langtang Range including Dorje Lakpa (a 7,000m mountain with a 4,000 relief) and Jugal Range. The viewpoint was marked with numerous prayer flags and few chortens. We spent a short while on the ridge admiring the view until the clouds moved in and obscured the panorama.

It gets dark at 6 pm making the night long and cold. We go to bed at 7 or 7.30 pm and get up at 5 am. It is cold at night and frost covers the inside of the tent by morning. I sleep in my down jacket, hat and a hot water bottle in my sleeping bag for warmth.

Beautiful view from the ridge above Panch Pokhari. The Langtang and Jugal Ranges are on the horizon 30km away.

October 26, 2018 Tin Pokhari 4,200m

I felt like saying: Thank you God for the Koreans! We left Panch Pokhari in brilliant sunshine under a blue sky following the Koreans like a homeless Himalayan dog. We quickly ascended the ridge and stopped to admire the spectacular panorama of the Langtang and the Jugal Himals. After taking many photos, we descended on a good trail that we saw the day before.

Around 11am we stopped for a 2-hour lunch. We noticed very dark clouds moving in our direction from the lowlands. The clouds were thicker and darker than those of previous afternoons and looked ominous. Sure enough, it soon started to snow! As we moved on after lunch (north and up), the snow increased in intensity until it was full on winter. Now we could not see the trail and, with minimal visibility, we had no idea of the location of our final destination for the day. Everything was white and we could not see ahead of us or around. Thanks to the Koreans though, one of their men knew the trail and the general location of the camp at Tin Pokhari. This gave us the confidence to push on and not stop in some random spot. Without his help we would be guessing and wasting time. Perhaps not the end of the world, but it would make us unsure of what was ahead.

I we plodded through the deep and wet snow, I noticed that some of the Korean porters had no shoes and were wearing flip-flops! By now the snow was 5 inches deep and I felt cold just looking at the porters with their bare and wet feet in the snow. This added a sense of urgency for the porters and we did not linger. Obviously no one expected the snow or the wide out. It turned out to be a long and quite cold day and we covered quite a distance to get to the Tin Pokhari camp. We arrived at our destination at around 4 pm sliding down a slippery slope without being able to see any of the surroundings. It was getting dark and we were tired, wet and cold. I was concerned that we would have snow on the pass making it harder to navigate for our crew. We pitched our tents and crashed right after dinner at 7pm. We shared one tent and it was quite a cold night.

October 27, 2018 – Attempt to get to the high camp 4,600m

We woke up to a winter wonderland. Everything around us was covered in white and it was very pretty. The mountains were white and snow plumes were being blown off their tops by the wind. It was also cold! We had breakfast in a cold shade. After breakfast, we packed up and left for the Tilman Pass high camp, or so we thought. We followed the trail and trail markers put up by the Nepal Mountaineering Association. Unbeknownst to us, one of the markers was turned 90o in the wrong direction and we veered off towards the Tilman Pass East, up the wrong valley and towards the wrong glacier. We ascended for a few hours to 4,600m and hiked 10km before we realized our error. We basically hit a dead end. We reached a crest of a near-vertical moraine that did not have a way of letting us descend 100m down to the stone-covered glacier. The guys realized that something was not right and we consulted the map. So much for the Koreans knowing the way! On the flip side though, this provided us with a good opportunity to explore a beautiful valley and have a good look at the approach to the Tilman Pass East. We could see the large icefall descending from Mt. Dorje Lakpa across the glacier from our high point. We retreated down the glacier and came back to the sign that caused the confusion. We decided to camp nearby as it was getting late. This is such a beautiful area. Any opportunity to hike and explore it is great!

We set up camp and had a great fire and nice evening. We were now confident of the correct route to the Tilman Pass.

October 28, 2018 Tilman Pass High Camp 4,820m

We woke up to a brilliant and sunny day. The sun dried the tent and the sleeping bag before we left the camp. After breakfast we started to ascend the moraine to the correct glacier. After two hours of following the lateral moraine, we came to a spot where we could “safely” descend to the glacier itself. The descent was quite tricky with loose rocks and not much to hold on to. The exit point was marked with cairns but it would be easy to miss. It was actually quite dangerous as the moraines are unstable and rock fall was a real hazard.

We then followed the glacier covered in loose and unstable boulders for few more hours. It seemed endless. We walked on wobbly rocks and among great boulders all the way up to 4,800m. The route required concentration not to slip or break a leg. Our group split into two with each team ascending the opposite sides of the glacier. We finally arrived at the high camp consisting of some flat rocks on top of an ice crest. It was easy to miss. Shyam found it as the Koreans had no idea where the camp was. The scenery was spectacular and reminiscent of Pakistan. From the high camp we had a direct look at the Tilman Pass.

So far, it is not an easy trek and it feels more like a mountaineering expedition than a hike. There are no teahouses or resupply points. It feels remote and far away from anywhere. We did not run into any other trekkers other than the Koreans.

David was very tired today, mainly to the problems with ascending the moraine. He collapsed into the tent after arriving at the high camp and did not re-emerge until dinner. The high camp is surrounded by high mountains very close by and has a very alpine feel to it. In the evening Shyam and some of the Korean guides went for a reconnaissance of the pass. I think that the Korean porters are as poorly equipped as ours and it turns out that they also do not know the way very well either… Strength in numbers and good Karma though.

October 29, 2018 crossing the Tilman Pass 5,330m

We had a very cold night in the high camp. As soon as the sun went down behind the nearby ridge, it got progressively colder. The camp is like a bird’s nest situated high at the head of the glacier at an altitude of 4,800m. The view from the camp extends down the glacier to the south and directly to the Tilman Pass’ icefall to the north. High rocky ridges on the east and west surround the camp. It is very beautiful but rocky and barren.

We got up at 4 am to cross the pass. It was dark and very cold. We had something to eat and departed at 5.30 am at dawn. The walk to the bottom of the icefall was short. It was mainly through a boulder field. We ascended to the right of the icefall on a steep boulder slope for approximately 200m of elevation gain. We then took a sharp turn to the left (north) and gained the dry glacier at around 5,100m. The sun was still hidden behind the mountain to our east, making it a cold ascent. For that reason, we did not stop and linger. There was no wind though and we had a clear blue sky. How lucky considering our memories of the ferocious winter storm on the Dhampus pass in 2017 (see the 2017 Dhaulagiri Trip Report).

We continued our ascent for another 200 vertical meters between two steep mountains. We could see the crevasses and easily walked around them. After a short time we arrived at the pass located in a narrow cleft. To the north, the glacier opened up a lot more and the view was grander than to the south (where we came from). We were now at 5,300m, directly on the backside of Mount Ganchempo (6,387m). The view was not as grand as other passes we crossed. We were surrounded by rock and ice on all sides. Regardless, we did enjoy every minute of the windless time we spent on the pass. We took photos of the surroundings and the distant peaks of the Langtang Range. The most impressive though were the mountains immediately next to the pass. The icefall flowing from Mt. Urkinmang (6,151m) next to us was most impressive. The summits seemed so close, less than 1,000m of vertical gain from the pass.

To the north, the main glacier flowing from the pass dropped down steeply. There was a fixed rope placed by the Koreans and another one placed by us, to descend on. The porters had no crampons and a slip would result in a 500 m slide to the bottom of the glacier. Shyam had a rope but no anchors apart from our ice axes. He found a piece of old rope under a rock and tied that around his boot for some very limited purchase on the ice. The descent was pretty straight forward and after we had some tea, we were walking on the flat part of the glacier. The glacier gave way to rocky and icy boulders and the descent became more tricky. We could now see a large green frozen lake below. The north high camp was located by that lake and was our destination for the day. We had to down climb a tricky boulder field and steep slopes in order to get to the lake. The going was not easy and I had to concentrate to avoid slipping.

The frozen green lake - the site of our camp.

Our campsite was located on the edge of the frozen lake. It was a beautiful spot. The lake was surrounded by high and glaciated mountains on three sides and the moraine of the Langshisa Glacier on the north side. It was the High Himalaya at the finest.

Almost there! Approaching the Tilman Pass north camp site.

After lunch I took a long walk to the top of the moraine of the Langshisa Glacier. I had a fantastic view up and down the glacier and to the surrounding peaks at the head of the valley. Down below, to the north and across the Langtang River, I was looking directly up the Shalbachum Glacier and the Shalbachum Mountain (6,707). To the left of the Shalbachum Glacier I could see the Yala Peak and the ridge leading to Dangpache Mountain (6,567m). I ascended the Yala Peak in 2010 with David. The visibility was great; the weather was superb but windy. At sunset, there was quite a lightshow. Various shades of orange light from the setting sun projected onto the clouds and glaciers surrounding the camp. I took many fabulous photos of the reflections of the Langtang peaks in the small tarns near our camp.

The surrounding landscape was very grand, dramatic and beautiful. Massive moraines, 7,000m peaks all around us with steep glaciers dropping down precipitously. We were in the middle of high Himalayan peaks in the heart of the Langtang Range! The sun soon hid behind the steep mountain to the west of our camp and it became quite cold. The wind also picked up.

Tilman Pass high camp on the north side of the pass

We had a long and cold night. I was very happy to have crossed the Tilman Pass and be in this beautiful spot. I could stay here for a few days and explore the surrounding valleys and peaks. This was the last of the high and technical passes of the Great Himalaya Trail proper for me. I have basically finished all the interesting and alpine sections of the GHT between Kangchendzonga and Dhaulagiri (including the Dhaulagiri circuit that is not part of the GHT). I have not done the section between Gunsa (Kangchendzonga) and the Arun Valley (Makalu), the section between Rowaling and the Panch Pokhari Ridge (Langtang) – a low altitude hill slog, and the section from Syabrubesi to Arugat in the Ganesh region – another low altitude slog. I do not want to spend the time and money walking for the sake of connecting dots without any interesting or challenging objectives along the way.

October 30, 2018 Langshisa Kharka

We left early to go down to Langshisa Kharka where David and I were in 2009. The descent down was the most dangerous part of the Tilman trek, down a steep and very loose moraine. The entire moraine consisted of consolidated mud with rocks and huge boulders protruding from it. They seemed ready and waiting to roll on top of us at any moment. We went down fast to avoid any accidents. We then walked down the Langshisa Glacier on a conveyer belt of rocks and boulders. Finally we arrived at the snout of the glacier with a cool ice cave spitting a rushing glacial stream.

Looking for safe descent to Langshisa Glacier. Langtang River Valley is below.

Departing the north Tilman Pass high camp

Langhisa Glacier - we descended the steep moraine on the right

Rounding the corner revealed the Langtang Valley and the terminal moraine of the Langtang Glacier to the north of us. We were now in the familiar terrain. To my surprise, there was a bridge across the Langtang River, which enabled us to cross without having to ford the cold rushing water. It was windy. Numerous prayer flags at Langshisa Kharka welcomed us by flapping loudly in the afternoon sun. Nothing changed at the Langshisa Kharka campsite from 10 years ago. We set up our camp in one of the stone huts to shelter us from the increasing afternoon wind. The boys built a roaring fire and were looking forward to the first day off since we started. The Koreans left us and moved on to complete the Manaslu section of the GHT.

October 31, 2018 Langtang Glacier 4,600m

One of my objectives on this trip was to explore the Langtang Glacier. I remember David and I going to the glacier in 2009. I regretted that we did not have enough time to explore further.

Shyam and I left the Langshisa Kharka camp in the morning (David took a day off). Along the way, we noticed a few landslides that were caused by the 2014 earthquake. We had cold and strong wind blowing at us from the north. We ascended to the terminal moraine of the Langtang Glacier and then got onto the glacier itself. We were going up and down high and loose mounds of ice covered by rocks. The going was tedious and slow. It soon became apparent that we would not be able to advance very far this way. We saw another trail along the lateral moraine of the Langtang Glacier in the distance. We decided to retrace our steps and gain the moraine to continue up the Langtang Valley as far as we could. We passed the Morimoto basecamp at 4,600 with a threatening herd of big yaks checking us out and continued further up the moraine.

On the Langtang Glacier - the wall of 6,000m is blocking the view of Mt. Shishapangma hiding right behind them.

Langshisa Ri’s north aspect from the Langtang Glacier

The rocky wall of Pemthang Karpo Ri was directly ahead, close and imposing. We wanted to see around the corner, around the spot where the Langtang Glacier takes the turn to the northwest. I was hoping to catch a glimpse of Mt. Langtang Ri and perhaps the 8,000m Mt. Shishapangma itself! The closer we got to the corner the higher and more imposing the Pemphang Karpo Ri wall appeared. The glacier was curving gently and there was no view. We were standing directly across the 1,500m high wall of huge mountains looming above us. We have walked very far and were getting quite tired. The wind was also increasing and we were running out of water. We walked for at least 10km up the valley. We learned later that the Langtang Glacier continues for another 15 km from that point! It apparently takes 3 days to get to the end of the glacier (and the basecamp of Langtang Ri). I had to admit defeat and leave the quest for another time. We turned around and headed down the valley to arrive back at the Langshisa Kharka camp around 3pm.

I was quite tired but very satisfied with our effort. We did not have any days off since the start of the trek on October 20th. While Shyam and I were on the glacier, Milan, one of the young porters, took a 6-hour hike to Kianjing Gompa to recharge his phone! He did not even bring any beer with him on the way back. Obviously we were quite disappointed!

November 1, 2018 Kianjing Gompa 3,825

Looking towards Langtang Glacier from Langshisa Kharka. We went all the way to the distant ridge 10-15km away! Pemthang Karpo Ri is on the right.

Our objective was to get to Kinjang Gompa. We were looking forward to a warm shower and a cold beer. We walked down the Langtang River Valley retracing our steps from 2009. We crossed remnants of massive landslides caused by the 2014 earthquake. The walk was fast and very scenic. After 3 hours, we rounded the final corner and the massive bulk of Langtang Lirung appeared before us. It is such a beautiful and massive mountain. We could not see the village of Kianjing Gompa until we were almost there.

Approaching Kinjang Gompa with Langtang Lirung looming above

Surprisingly, the village of Kinjang Gompa has expanded considerably since the 2014 earthquake! The foreign aid money allowed the locals to build big hotels and coffee shops. The western not-for-profit was turned into a big profit! The village was very expensive and one enterprising gold-toothed fellow appropriately fleeced us. The prices in the village are shockingly high especially for food and beer! He is a sneaky one and managed to cheat us at every turn with a big smile and proclamations of his unconditional friendship. He looked shifty from the moment I met him and my initial suspicion was confirmed by the time we left the village. One good thing about our association with the shifty entrepreneur was the helicopter ride we managed to arrange through him (although he cheated us in that transaction as well).

In Kianjing Gompa village we heard that many groups attempting the Tilman Pass from the Langtang Valley side turn around, as they cannot cross the moraine of the Langshisa Glacier. This is the moraine that we also found to be the most challenging and dangerous part of the entire Tilman Pass route.

From the dining room of the hotel we were staying at, we had a fantastic view of Mt. Langtang Lirung.

November 2, 2018 Langtang Lirung Basecamp 4,350m

Today I decided to go to the base camp of Langtang Lirung. Although the option of sitting and doing nothing for a day seemed like a great idea, the FOMO got better of me. I was quite tired climbing the hill from Kianjing Gompa village to the basecamp. It looked much closer than the 5 km each way. Along the way, Shyam and I passed a Buddhist shrine located in a small cave. We also ran into our young porters picking up cow patties as a side gig for some quick money on their day off.

At the Langtang Lirung (LL) base camp (BC) I was looking for the memorial to Tomas Humar who died there in 2009. The BC is located by the moraine of the LL Glacier. It is surrounded by LL (7,227m), Changbu (6,251m), Kinshung (6,781m), Langtang Yubra (6,048m) and Yubra (6,264m). It is all very impressive and grand. The view down the LL glacier to the Kanjala Himal is also quite beautiful. From the LL BC we could see the ascent route to the Yala Peak. To my surprise, the glacier we climbed 10 years ago is almost completely gone! We had a windless and sunny day. At times it was even hot! I would have loved to climb higher to maybe 5,000/5,500m but I had no energy left in me. My legs hurt and my lungs hurt as well. The following day, we were going still higher to the Ganjala Pass at 5,130m. Being conscious of that, I decided to conserve my energy.

Langtang Lirung looming over the basecamp

Langtang Lirung Glacier as seen from the drone

Back in Kianjing Gompa, over a beer, David implied that perhaps we should go down the valley but I thought that since we were already here we should at least try to cross the Ganjala Pass. David agreed at the end as we concluded that the chance of us returning to the Langtang valley any time soon was pretty slim.

November 2, 2018 Ganjala Pass Basecamp 4,300m

Thanks to our enterprising local “friend” and some hard cash, we managed to get a helicopter ride up the Langtang Valley. Some tourists were flying from Kianjing Gompa to Kathmandu (KTM) and we asked for the helicopter to bring more fuel and give us a 20-minute ride up the Langtang Valley over the Langtang Glacier. I wanted to see the Langtang Glacier that I did not get to see by walking to its end a few days prior. I knew that this would be a spectacular experience based on my memory from the Annapurna flight in 2017. Luckily, the day was sunny with no wind, making the conditions for flying perfect.

The helicopter was supposed to come by 8am but it showed up at 10am due to air traffic congestion at the KTM airport. The helicopter pilot was from Australia and had limited experience with flying beyond the Kianjing Gompa village. There was some confusion regarding the amount of flight time we paid for (of course the Kianjing man making the arrangements was trying to cheat us). Finally we sorted out the confusion and off we went. Flying in helicopters is the ultimate ride and an exhilarating experience. Flying in the Himalaya is the ultimate!

The machine started up and we lifted off and flew north. We gained altitude as we went further. We could see Mt. Morimoto, Shalbachum, Langshisa Ri, Penthang Karpo Ri, many glaciers and deep valleys below. We were flying at 19,000 feet. Soon the bulk of Shishapangma in Tibet rose majestically from behind the ridges of Goldum (6,447m), Peri (6,174m) and Risum (7,050m) – the very wall that blocked our view during the exploration of the Langtang Glacier. Mt. Shishapangma (8,013m) towered above all other Langtang peaks. Beyond Shishapangma, we could see the brown flats of the Tibetan Plateau. We could see the entire Langtang Glacier with Langtang Ri at its end. We had great visibility and there was very little wind. As we reached 19,000 ft of altitude, the helicopter was struggling a little. As we turned, we flew directly towards Pemthang Karpo Ri. The pilot was surprised that although he was at 19,000 feet, the top of the peak was still way above him. The summit is at 22,522 feet or 6,865m (another 1,000m or 3,500 feet higher). The pilot took a 180 degree turn at Pemthang Karpo Ri, approximately 10km from Shishapangma, and flew back. On the way back, we flew in front of the Langshisa Glacier with the entire Tilman Pass trekking route visible below. We could see the pass we crossed, the frozen lake where we camped, and the entire route we walked on just a few days before. The flight was very impressive and David and I were both very satisfied! I wish it could had been longer!

The Langtang Glacier, Mt. Shishapangma far away (on the left) and Mt. Pemthang Karpo Ri (22,500ft) on the right.

Looking northwest from 19,000 feet. The point peak is Mt. Chusmdo 6,508 in Tibet (China).

Mt. Lanshisa Ri (left) and Naya Kanga (right)

Mt. Dorje Pahad 6,979m at the end of the glacier. The wall of Mt. Langhisa Ri on the right.

After landing back in Kianjing, we had another overpriced coffee and dry apple pie before we took off for the Ganjala Pass.

The Ganjala Pass basecamp is 1,300m vertical climb from Kianjing Gompa. The going was easy on a well-established trail with fantastic views to the Langtang Lirung and all mountains surrounding it. The basecamp sits on a promontory overlooking the beautiful Langtang Valley and the high peaks. It was a great day with little wind and great visibility. The evening was cool and there was no wood for a fire so we all drank hot tea to stay warm.

Hiking to the Ganjala Pass with Kinjang Gompa below.

We intended going further to the high camp at 4,800m but this was not possible owing to the lateness of the hour and the reported absence of water at that camp.

November 3, 2018 Ganjala Pass 5,130m

We got up at 5 am and left the camp at 6am. We had a 1,000m vertical ascent right ahead of us straight from the camp. I was a little tired from the continuous 16 days of adventuring with no rest days. Right out of the gate we climbed steeply for about 500 meters before the trail levelled off. The higher we ascended the better the views got. We could now see all the way to Shishapangma and above the ridges of the Langtang Himal. It was another beautiful day with great visibility and sunshine. The climb to the pass over a glacier was long and it felt tedious, more glacier rock and moraines. The moraines were all dry though and we did not have any snow to worry about. The pass became visible early on and we just gradually ascended the long valley to get closer to it. The pass itself was very steep on the north side, basically a vertical drop of 100 m or so. In order to get to the pass it was necessary to skirt the ridge that forms part of the pass and approach it from the left side via a rocky shelf with some great exposure. There was a long ladder for the porters and a steel rope on the shelf for safety. I could just imagine the increased degree of seriousness if there was snow and ice on this route. Again, our poorly equipped crew would struggle in case of poor weather.

Climbing to the Ganjala Pass with the Langtang Velley below.

The Ganjala Pass is situated at 5,150m. It is a fantastic viewpoint for the entire Langtang Range. Mt. Shishapangma, the highest mountain of the range, dominates the skyline. The pass is quite narrow and marked with numerous prayer flags. The Ganjala Pass reminded me a little of the Renjo La Pass in the Khumbu Region. The Ganjala Pass is steeper though and more remote than the Renjo La Pass.

The descent from the pass to the south was also steep but not long. We descended on some loose scree and rocks to the bottom of the glacier at 5,000m. Surprisingly, there was a good trail not too far from the bottom of the descent gully. I refilled the water bottle with some glacial melt water. We were all very tired, including the porters. When we reached the bottom of the descent slope, we were still about two hours away from the camp. The trail was quite easy but long. It was down, down, down to 4,400m where we camped by a stream. At the end it was a 10-hour day with 1,000m up and 700m down over challenging terrain and high altitude. A good workout.

November 4 and 5, 2018 Descent from Ganjala Pass from 4,400m to 3,780m to Tarkeghyang

The descent from Ganjala Pass high camp was quite long. Basically, we descended back into the clouds (like the ascent to the Tilman Pass two weeks before). This made for a cold and grey experience without any views. The descent was not gradual but had many long and steep climbs. I am not sure how many meters we climbed that day but it was easily close to 1,000m. So much for descending!

On the second day of our descent we could not find any water and we were forced to go much further than we intended (we hiked for over 17 km) to a place named Dorjeling. In order to get water, Shyam and the boys went from the ridge down to the river at the bottom of the valley (a 700m down climb) and then all the way back up with the heavy jugs of water. They sure deserved a medal for that! Without water, no one eats. The porters were very tired and hungry after the long day.

Looking for a shortcut to the village below. Our crew and Dhalbat the dog.

The waterless campsite was beautiful and had a fantastic view of the sunrise. The rising sun dried our tents and sleeping bags. From the campsite, we ascended another few hundred meters, then down, up and down. Finally, we just went down all the way to the village in the valley far below to the “Tourist Paradise” teahouse.

At this point, David and I were basically done with the trip as we were just going back to the road. There was nothing else left to see. At the “Tourist Paradise” we washed our clothes, took a hot shower and just relaxed in the hot sun. We were definitely back on the main trekking route as quite a few trekkers arrived later in the afternoon.

This trek has been quite epic. We both agreed that it was one of the finest in Nepal (I say the same about every one of them, but this one really was one of the finest). This route was wild and remote, yet close to Kathmandu. We saw hardly any other trekkers or locals for that matter. It was also COLD! We had some really cold nights and, since the sun disappeared by the afternoon almost every day, we had cold days too. The altitude was consistently above 4,000m for most of the trek. I did not have any days off and each day I walked for more than 10km,

I had no altitude or health issues at all. I felt fit and strong all the way. I was tired but not to the point of slowing me down. I found it difficult to sleep mainly due to the cold. I would wake up just about the time my water bottle cooled down (usually at 2am; we would go to bed at 7.30) and I had hard time falling asleep again. I would then wake up at 4 or 5 am and the day would then start. We could not linger in the kitchen tent in the evenings or mornings, as the boys needed it to sleep and eat in. This forced us to retire to our sleeping bags early.

This trip was also marked by some incredible luck. No one from our crew knew the way or had proper gear. It was almost a miracle that we ran into the Koreans given how infrequently the Tilman Pass is crossed. This strength in numbers gave us the confidence and made the experience more enjoyable. We would have struggled with finding the key points along the way: the descent point to the glacier, the ascent route to the pass and the descent gully to the Langshisa Glacier. We were also very lucky to find the helicopter in the right spot and on the right day. Also, on the flight day, the weather was perfect. Although the gold-toothed man from Kianjing is a shifty bastard, the flight was worth it. We were also lucky with the great weather we enjoyed. Had we had any snow on any of the two passes, the experience would have been epic but in the wrong way.

The trip reinforced by conviction that David is the best company for me. We really are a perfect team for such endeavours. He is mentally and physically strong although this trip did tire him out a bit. I think that he was close to his limit a few times but pulled through with gusto and a smile.

November 6, 2018 Kokani 2,045m

Today we walked on a nice trail for the final 15km from Tarkeghyang to Kokani. We had lunch in Semartang at a nicely appointed house of a local lady. We also attracted a local mutt. I named him Dhalbat and he dry humped me to show me his love. Then he followed us for some distance and hung around until we left the following day. I was glad that we were done but also sad that we were going back to the chaos of the valleys.

The drive from Kokani to Kathmandu was tiring and long although the distance is only 70km. The state of roads in Nepal is beyond basic as I mentioned. We stopped for lunch in a town called Zero Kilo and had probably the best dhal bat in Nepal so far. Then onto the Arniko Highway (the road connecting Nepal and Tibet) and back to dusty and polluted Kathmandu. And just like that, it all ended in the Hotel Vaishali. In the lobby we were greeted by an exhibit of photographs from the golden era of Polish Himalayan climbing. We had a nice couple of days decompressing in Kathmandu and enjoying Raj’s hospitality again for which we are very grateful! Yes, we will return!

Distance traveled: 200km

Elevation climbed: 7.5 km or more

David, Derek and Dhalbat! I wished that I could take the dog with me!

Derek Boniecki

November 13, 2018

Langtang Trek - Tilman Pass

Derek Boniecki

November 13, 2018

In October of 2018, we traveled to Nepal to complete the Tillman Pass and Ganjala Pass trek. We approached the Tillman Pass from the south side via the Panch Pokari Ridge. We then descended to the Langtang Valley, explored the Langtang Glacier and exited the Valley via the Ganjala Pass. We also managed to take a helicopter tour of the Langtang Valley north of Kyanjing Gomba. All in all, it was a wild and challenging trek through a wild and remote area of the Langtang Himal.

Thanks again to mountainsunvalley.com for all the support and help with putting this together.

See the wonderful page HERE with detailed annotations of various mountains in the Langtang and Jugal Ranges from this trek.

Also, see the page HERE with detailed annotated photos from our helicopter flight in the Langtang Range.

For photos from the Yala trekking peak see the page HERE. It is one of the best spots for the panoramic views of the Langtang Range because of its central location.

See the Link for the Annotated photos of the Langtang Himal from Helicopter

See the Link for the Annotated photos from Yala Peak - a trekking peak in the Langtang

The Langtang Range. Langtang Lirung is on the right and Shishapangma is on the right. — The Langtang Range. Langtang Lirung is on the left and Shishapangma is on the right.

Tilman Pass is on the top right and the Langshisa Glacier is in the middle - our route down from the Tilman Pass.

Tilman Pass and the high camp (by the frozen green lake).

Closeup of the Tilman Pass from the helicopter.

Second day of the approach to the Tilman Pass. We were in thick clouds during the day on this section of the trek.

Beautiful sunrise over foothills of the Himalaya. This region is called Helambu.

Looking to the Ganja La Pass and Langtang Lirung

Another campsite with a fantastic view and no water

Gur Karpo Ri, Dorje Lakpa and Jugal Himal from the south. These mountains are located in China.

Shishapangma peaking from behind the ridges of the Langtang Himal as seen from the south, still a long way away from where we were!

Langtang Lirung and Ganjala Pass (on the left) from the south.

Our final camp before Panch Pokhari. This was one of the most scenic campsites on this trek.

Our Chef in action! It is quite unbelievable what can be made in these conditions.

High on the ridge near Panch Pokari during a spectacular sunsent.

A mani wall and Buddhist prayer flags. Mani walls are walls built by followers of Buddhism. The walls consist of hand-crafted tablets inscribed with Buddhist prayers and images of the Lord Buddha.

Tilman-Pass S 4240 Panch Pokhari nach NO (1).jpg

The view of the Langtang Himal (the high peak is Dorje Lakpa) from far away. We approached the pass on a long ridge with very little water available along the way. The lack of water was a big problem in finding suitable spots for camping. — The view of the Langtang Himal (the high peak is Dorje Lakpa) from far away. We approached the pass on the long ridge in the centre of this photo, with very little water available along the way. The lack of water was a big problem in finding suitable spots for camping.

The Langtang and Jugal Himals from the south. The ridge we followed offered spectacular views in the morning and evening. During the day, massive clouds obscured all views. On the left is Gurkarpo Ri 6,889m, to its right is Dorje Lakpa 6,966m and th… — The Langtang and Jugal Himals from the south. The ridge we followed offered spectacular views in the morning and evening. During the day, massive clouds obscured all views. On the left is Gurkarpo Ri 6,889m, to its right is Dorje Lakpa 6,966m and then the unnamed sister peak 6,563m.

Jugal Himal from the south (the mountains in this photo are located in Tibet).

Unnamed Mountain with an altitude of 6,563m - a sister peak to Dorje Lakpa

Our entire crew in front of the magnificent panorama of the Jugal Himal from Panch Pokari at 4,250m.

Panch Pokari - a pilgrimage site for the Hindus

Our campsite at Tin Pokhari. We had one but very intense snow storm. Thankfully, it did not extend beyond Tin Pokari. — Our campsite at Tin Pokhari. We had one but very intense snow storm. Thankfully, the snow did not extend beyond Tin Pokari.

The approach glacier to Tilman Pass from Tin Pokari. The pass is hidden behind the mountain in the forefront.

The approach glacier to Tilman East Pass from Tin Pokari. It looked like a spectacular route. We walked to the end of the moraine int he photo by accident. It was an exploratory trip half way up to the East Tilman Pass.

Looking back at Tin Pokhari en route to the Tillman Pass East. We ascended the wrong glacier and did not realize our mistake until we were 10km in and at 4,600m! It did however give us an opportunity to explore the approach to the Tilman Pass East. … — Looking back at Tin Pokhari en route to the Tillman Pass East. We ascended the wrong glacier and did not realize our mistake until we were 10km in and at 4,600m! It did however give us an opportunity to explore the approach to the Tilman Pass East. This basically took up the entire day.

The glacier leading to Tilman Pass East. We went all the way to the end of the moraine before we realized our mistake! The flat top mountain is Gur Karpo Ri 6,892m. The large mountain on the right is Dorje Lakpa 6,966m.

Gur Karpo Ri 6,892m and the Tilman Pass East - close up of the pass. It looks very doable!

The final stretch to the Tilman Pass East from the high point of our sortie. Dorje Lakpa Glacier with Mt. Dorje Lakpa on the left.

The glacier leading to the Tilman Pass - now we are on the right path!

Ascending the long moraine before gaining the glacier to approach the Tilman Pass.

Looking back towards the Jugal Himal in China. We came from behind the ridges in the centre of the photo.

We needed to get to the end of this glacier. The pass is the little white speck at the very end of the glacier on the left side of the photo.

Half way up the glacier. The Tilman Pass, now clearly visible, is still a few hours away.

Descending from the moraine to the glacier was steep and tricky. We were concerned about possible rockfall.

Shyam, our guide and fearless leader - facing the unknown with a smile!

Approaching the Tilman Pass high camp. The camp is located between the pass and the the white lip of the glacier.

The Tilman Pass - south high camp with the pass ahead.

Scouting the route trough the Tilman Pass. We were lucky with the right weather conditions. For the sense of scale, spot the people on the right above the rock shelf.

The Tilman Pass ice fall. We had to ascend the rocks to the right to bypass the icefall.

Almost there, reaching the crest of the Tillman Pass. The glacier we came from is visible below.

Tilman Pass 5,300m. Mount Ganchempo looms above.

Looking back south from the top of the Tilman Pass.

Tilman Pass, view to the north. The mountain in the centre of the photo is Langshisa Ri.

The Langtang Himal from the pass. The Tilman Pass is not the best for the views of the Langtang range. However, the area around the high camp and Langshisa Glacier is fabulous!

The crevices were visible so it was easy to navigate around them.

Descending the glacier using the fixed rope.

The steeper section had a fixed rope for the porters as they had no crampons. The fixed rope made for an easy and quick descent for everyone.

Descending from Tilman Pass glacier to the high camp. This section was steep, icy and unstable. Negotiating the endless moraines was the biggest challenge for the porters.

The high camp was by the frozen lake. Mount Langshisa Ri and Langshisa Glacier are behind the lake.

The High camp on the north side of the Tilman Pass

Looking towards Langshisa Kharka and the Langtang Valley from the high camp of the Tilman Pass. This was a very beautiful area to explore.

Langshisa Glacier - our descent route down to Langtang Valley.

The Yala Peak is on the rock ridge on the left - it is hard to believe that it is 5,500m high!

Our camp at the north side of the Tilman Pass

The view from the moraine of the Langshisa Glacier to the high camp of the Tilman Pass.

Around the north high camp of the Tilman Pass.

Langshisa Glacier. On the left is Gur Karpo Ri 6,892m, in the middle is Loempo Gang 6,979m and on the right is Dorje Lakpa 6,966m.

Descending to the Langshisa Glacier on loose, unstable and steep moraine.

Steep and loose; this area is prone to rock fall and turns many people around if they are trying to approach the pass from the north. The rocks were falling with high frequency.

Crazy moraines! After the sun hits this slope, the bombardment starts. The rocks are held by consolidated frozen mud. Mount Dorje Lakpa 6,966m dominates the end of the valley.

We descended the crazy moraine on the right! It was like walking through a giant rock quarry.

The snout of the Langshisa Glacier with an impressive ice cave. Neither David nor Shyam were keen to explore the inside of it!

Lower part of the Langshisa Glacier. Almost off the rubble! The snout is now in the distance.

We were ready to ford the Langtang River but to our surprise there was this beautiful bridge. The snout of the Langtang Glacier is in the distance.

Gangchempo towering above the Langshisa Glacier

Derek Boniecki

November 13, 2018

Langtang Trek - Ganjala Pass

Derek Boniecki

November 13, 2018

In October of 2018, we traveled to Nepal to complete the Tilman Pass and Ganjala Pass trek. We approached the Tilman Pass from the south side via the Panch Pokari Ridge. We then descended to the Langtang Valley, explored the Langtang Glacier and exited the Valley via the Ganjala Pass. We also managed to take a helicopter tour of the Langtang Valley north of Kyanjing Gomba. All in all, it was a wild and challenging trek through wild and remote area of the Langtang Himal.

Thanks again to mountainsunvalley.com for all the help with putting this together.

For Annotated Photos from the Ganjala Pass see here.

See the Link for Annotated photos from Langtang Himal from the Helicopter

We were lucky again and managed to get in a helicopter in Kynjang Gomba. So it happened that a group of trekkers were taking a helicopter back to Kathmandu while we were there. We hired the helicopter for a tour of the upper Langtang Valley.Pemthang… — We were lucky again and managed to get in a helicopter in Kynjang Gomba. So it happened that a group of trekkers were taking a helicopter back to Kathmandu while we were there. We hired the helicopter for a tour of the upper Langtang Valley.
Pemthang Karpo Ri’s North-west ridge from 19,000ft!

Panoramic view of the Langtang Valley. The Langtang Glacier is in the middle. Shishapangma in Tibet is on the horizon. Penthang Karpo Ri is on the right.

On the left is Shalbachum Glacier, and on the right is the Langtang Glacier with Mt. Shishapangma looming above in the centre.

Langtang Heli-Flight Yansa Tsenji + Shalbachum from SE.jpg

Langtang Heli-Flight Langtang Ri + Porong Ri from S.jpg

Langtang Himal from the helicopter. Kyunggari 6,599m on the left and Shaishapangma 8,013 on the right. The Shalbachum Glacier is in the middle.

The Langtang Himal from the helicopter. The high mountain on the left/centre is Shalbachum 6,707m and the pointy peak on the right is Kyunggari 6,599m.

The point peak is Kyunggari 6,599 and the one on the horizon is Lantang Ri.

Langtang Heli-Flight Kyungka Ri + Langtang Ri from SSE.jpg

Langtang Heli-Flight Gurkarpo Ri from ESE_1.jpg

Langtang Heli-Flight Gurkarpo Ri from ESE_2.jpg

Langtang Ri and the end of the Langtang Glacier. The langtang Glacier is 35 km Long. It is actually a multi day hike to get to the base of the Langtang Ri. Although the glacier is in Nepal, all the surrounding mountains are in Tibet.

Shishapangma south face 8,013m located entirely in Tibet.

Lanshisa Glacier in the middle and the Tilman Pass in the right upper corner of the photo.

Langtang+Heli-Flight+Gangchenpo+%2B+Urgyenmang+from+NNW.jpg

A close up of the Tilman Pass and the high camp by the green lake. This was our route. Down the glacier to the green lake.

Langtang Heli-Flight Dorje Khakpa + Urgyenmang from WNW.jpg

Langtang Heli-Flight Langshisa Ri + Gangchenpo from N.jpg

Langtang Heli-Flight Langshisa Ri from NW.jpg

Yala Peak on the right (high point of the rocky ridge) and the Langtang Lirung group on the left.

Langtang Heli-Flight Kimshung + Yansa Tsenji from ESE.jpg

Langtang Heli-Flight Naya Kangri from NE.jpg

Langtang Heli-Flight Langtang Lirung from SE.jpg

Lantang Lirung (Yala Peak is on the right)

Exploring the Langtang Glacier. It is deceptively long and apparently it takes 3 days to get to the end of it from Langshisa Kharka.

The Langtang Glacier. I am standing across from Langshisa Ri.

Langshisa Ri north face and the Langtang Glacier.

The mountains on the border between Nepal and China along the Langtang Glacier.

Langtang Lirung (LL) Glacier from the LL BC

Langtang Lirung Glacier - Looking at the Langtang Valley 5 km away and 800m below.

Looking back at Langtang Lirung Glacier from the ascend to Ganjala Pass

The entire approach to Yala Peak is on the left with Shishapangma towering on the horizon.

The Langtang Panorama from the ascent to the Ganjala

Langtang Valley, Mt. Langtang Lirung (left) and Mt. Shishapagma (in the distance with a line of clouds above it) from the climb to Ganjala Pass.

Langtang Lirung from the basecamp for Ganjala Pass at 4,300m.

Shishapangma 8,013m is the only 8,000m mountain located entirely in China’s Tibet

Ascend to Galjala Pass. Naya Kanga is on the right.

We still can’t see the pass - it is behind the slope on the right.

Looking back at the Langtang Himal from near the Ganjala Pass. Shishapangma dominates the view. We hiked from 4,300 to 5,130m in 4 hours.

Rocky approach to the Gajala Pass. It was dry but wobbly and steep.

The steep final approach to the Ganjala Pass.

Ganjala Pass, the approach is via the snow covered shelf on the upper right. Chains have been installed for safety and a ladder for the porters.

The steep and exposed Ganjala Pass 5,150m

This was our 20th major trip! A true milestone for David and me. I am lucky to have a good friend in David to share the interest and passion for travel to wild places.

Ganjala Pass 5,150m. It is a surprisingly beautiful pass and yet not very popular! It is so close to Kathmandu and near such popular trekking route. It did remind me of Renjo La a little.

Looking down at the approach route to the Ganjala Pass from the now distant Langtang Valley.

Ganjala Pass and back side of Naya Kanga.

Looking south from Ganjala Pass. The south high camp is located by the two small lakes below at an altitude of approx 5,000m.

The view from the pass. The Yala Peak is the rocky ridge on the right. It was sad to see how the glacier retreated in the last decade. We went there in 2009 (see the post) and most of our hiking was on ice.

The rocky ridge extending from Ganjala Pass

Coming down the steep south side of the pass.

Looking back at the rocky descent from the Ganjala Pass. You can spot our porters on the left!

Distant view of the Ganjala Pass area from the south.

The Jugal Himal in Tibet right before the sunrise seen from our descent round from the Ganjala Pass.

Looking back to where we came from. We crossed the range on the horizon via the Tilman Pass.

The fantastic view of the Langtang Range from the hills of Helambu. The trek down was not really down at all. We had to cross numerous ridges. 1000m up and 1200 down. We were tired and every ridge seemed much harder the lower we went. We were h… — The fantastic view of the Langtang Range from the hills of Helambu. The trek down was not really down at all. We had to cross numerous ridges. 1000m up and 1200 down. We were tired and every ridge seemed much harder the lower we went. We were happy to arrive at the road end - flat ground!

The end. Packed and ready for our 75 km 10 hour drive back to Kathmandu and home. What a FANTASTIC trip it was!

Derek Boniecki

September 9, 2018

Paria River Wilderness - USA, Utah

Derek Boniecki

September 9, 2018

In September of 2018 we did a short trip to the Paria River Canyon. Since September is considered a “monsoon season” in Southern Utah, we had the Canyon to ourselves (not counting snakes). The area is absolutely spectacular and the feel of remoteness adds to the sense of adventure. The entire Paria Canyon crossing is 34 miles long. Since we had limited amount of time, we hiked to the Paria River and Buckskin Gulch confluence from the Whitehouse campground (12 miles) and back. It really gave us a sense of what the entire crossing would be like. Since the river is very silty, water is a major concern. We carried 5 litres each. Since it is very hot, 5 lites is good for max 2 days. The nearest spring is 13 to 14 miles from the start. Because of the massive flooding in the summer of 2018, parts of the Canyon were completely submerged and dotted with deep water holes. This forced us to swim across long stretches in some spots. In other places, the water was up to our armpits but walkable. After the hike, everything was covered in filmy mud that required serious scrubbing with soap to wash off. Thankfully, we did not get caught in any quick sand.